Help with 2 M14 EBR's

[pestobanana]

Originally Posted by lurkingknight

a tight barrel does not necessarily make a good barrel. The most important thing about a barrel is the consistency of the finish inside. the smoother and more consistent throughout the length, the more accuracy you will get. It's not length nor tightboreness that gets you the accuracy.

Here's something I found and posted elsewhere

Originally Posted by pestobanana

Apparently Prometheus barrels really are the best in terms of consistency. (Angry Gun wasn't in this test)

I found this thing online, it might be out of date. The tester states an ISO9001 certified machine was used. It's all in German so if someone is fluent in German and can make better sense of this stuff, please do share!

http://www.madbullairsoft.com/images...l%20Report.pdf

Durchmesser absolut - Absolute Diametre
Schwankungen vom innendurchmesser - Fluctuations in Diametre

Mad Bull V2
Diametre: 6.016mm
Fluctuation: 0.004mm

Prometheus
Diametre: 6.036mm
Fluctuation: 0.001mm

PDI
Diametre: 6.021mm
Fluctuation: 0.002mm

You can read the rest yourself.

[pestobanana]

Originally Posted by Warwick88

When you say plug and play, you just mean over the counter parts?
I've never even thought about upgrades so this all very new (but very useful) information.

When you say air seal very consistent, what does that entail?
The strong hop up I get.
Shim everything to prevent wobble?
Good barrel as in a tighter barrel?

ASM is Airsoft Mechanics, a forum.

What I mean is you can't just stick the parts in and expect them to work to their full potential. You need to install them and tune them. For a good air seal, your shot to shot variation should be no more than 2 FPS, I've managed to get a gun down to +-0.3 FPS. Also, if your air seal is actually "good", you should be nagging at least an extra 10 or so M/S more than what the spring is rated for. For example my M14 is netting 138.7 M/S on a M120 (120M/S) spring.

Air seal is tricky. You need to try a lot of different components to see which ones work better together. I spent months trying out different piston head, O-ring and cylinder combinations to find the one that sealed the best. Then I tried different cylinder head, air nozzle and hop up combinations. I found that while Modify nozzles are amazing on Modify and Deep Fire cylinder heads, they are extremely leaky on Lonex heads. I also reshaped and removed material from my tappet plate to improve the seal from the air nozzle to the hop up rubber. I also shimmed my barrel and hop up unit, so that it cannot vibrate when shooting. That helped the consistency down range a lot. This is what I meant by not plug and play.

Also, unless you are very confident in your tactile abilities, working on a G&G M14 is not recommended if you have no experience working on mechboxes. Certain features are very poorly designed, and the mechbox is a huge pain in the ass to put back together (I've worked on one and I own a CA).

[Warwick88]

Originally Posted by pestobanana

Also, unless you are very confident in your tactile abilities, working on a G&G M14 is not recommended if you have no experience working on mechboxes. Certain features are very poorly designed, and the mechbox is a huge pain in the ass to put back together (I've worked on one and I own a CA).

I actually work as a repair technician, only I fix power tools. Haha my only worry is the mechbox being unfamiliar. I have all kinds of tools and machining equipment available, just need the "know-how" before I start trying.

Haha hence why I'm asking all these noob questions. I would like to be sure of what I'm attempting so as to not screw something up.

[pestobanana]

Working on mechboxes is fairly simple after the first time, but even though I've worked on a lot of different guns including a CA M14 which follows a similar design to the G&G, I found the G&G much more difficult to get back together due to the retarded design of the anti reversal latch and bevel gear. If you're mechanically minded you should be fine, it will be a matter of how long it takes to get it back together as opposed to whether or not you will get it back together.

Also be warned to take the cutoff lever off before taking the mechbox apart, this particular mechbox has that as a very weak point if the gears run in reverse, which is what happens if you take your mechbox apart or release your anti reversal latch without manually resetting the spring.

[Warwick88]

Originally Posted by pestobanana

Also be warned to take the cutoff lever off before taking the mechbox apart, this particular mechbox has that as a very weak point if the gears run in reverse, which is what happens if you take your mechbox apart or release your anti reversal latch without manually resetting the spring.

See that's what worries me. All the unfamiliar mechanics of the gun. All you experienced dudes know what all the parts are and what they look like lol.