Anybody have experience with the ARES G36 line?

[Okawesome]

OP, did you receive your g36c over the summer and if so, how has it performed so far?

Notes on my recent experience: I've recently installed a PDI W-Hold hop up bucking to replace the stock one, which is really flimsy and is known to be so. When I took the stock one out it was torn right at the mound. Not sure if it was torn during use or during removal. Either way it's not something that should happen.

During this process the barrel clip on the hop up broke right in half...must be due to repeated stress as I took the barrel in and out over a half dozen times during fitment and alignment of the bucking.

I contacted ARES through their website contact form and got a response within 36 hours. They put me in touch with their distributor in Hong Kong and for $20 usd including shipping I have a new barrel clip (and hop up nub for good measure) in airmail enroute. Pretty happy with their service so far. Eager to see how it will fire with the PDI W-Hold.


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[ccyg8774]

Used to have one from a trade. Sold it later. Recently brought another used one.
They are super easy to change spring. I use both I had primary as spring testers so I can't really tell for long term performance as spring testers don't need many rounds.
Their microswitch trigger is very annoying to me. I think this topic was heavily covered in ASC before. Basically the switches are meant for lower current they experience in typical AEG setup, and they are also not MOSFET (especally active braking MOSFET) friendly due to switch bouncing. Change to a different, low current and low bouncing switch and use a MOSFET seems to help.
Everyone I know disables the blowback the first thing when they get the gun.

[Okawesome]

Originally Posted by ccyg8774

Used to have one from a trade. Sold it later. Recently brought another used one.
They are super easy to change spring. I use both I had primary as spring testers so I can't really tell for long term performance as spring testers don't need many rounds.
Their microswitch trigger is very annoying to me. I think this topic was heavily covered in ASC before. Basically the switches are meant for lower current they experience in typical AEG setup, and they are also not MOSFET (especally active braking MOSFET) friendly due to switch bouncing. Change to a different, low current and low bouncing switch and use a MOSFET seems to help.
Everyone I know disables the blowback the first thing when they get the gun.

Thanks, so main issue here is using an 11.1v lipo is made difficult by the microswitch trigger. I read about that before as well. That's good to know, although I don't plan to go that route with the rifle. If I do make a switch over to lipo I would do 7.4v.


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[ccyg8774]

Originally Posted by Okawesome

Thanks, so main issue here is using an 11.1v lipo is made difficult by the microswitch trigger. I read about that before as well. That's good to know, although I don't plan to go that route with the rifle. If I do make a switch over to lipo I would do 7.4v.


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I don't think 7.4V would be issue free. I don't even think the microswitch issue is "lipo-only".
I think the working current with everything stock and a 9.6V (maybe even 8.4V) NiMH battery would still be too big for the stock microswitch, and the switch bouncing causes more spark and more erosion on the contact points. As the contact points being "wear" with sparks the resistance increases and cause it able to pass even less current and it just keeping get worse... That's why I decided to switch to the combination of a bouncing free low current microswitch and a MOSFET. I don't even run 11.1V lipo on my G36C.

[Okawesome]

Originally Posted by ccyg8774

I don't think 7.4V would be issue free. I don't even think the microswitch issue is "lipo-only".

I think the working current with everything stock and a 9.6V (maybe even 8.4V) NiMH battery would still be too big for the stock microswitch, and the switch bouncing causes more spark and more erosion on the contact points. As the contact points being "wear" with sparks the resistance increases and cause it able to pass even less current and it just keeping get worse... That's why I decided to switch to the combination of a bouncing free low current microswitch and a MOSFET. I don't even run 11.1V lipo on my G36C.

Thanks for the insight. Ok a 9.6v NiMH should be fine - it's what the official manual recommends and I'm happy with its current ROF.


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[ccyg8774]

Originally Posted by Okawesome

Thanks for the insight. Ok a 9.6v NiMH should be fine - it's what the official manual recommends and I'm happy with its current ROF.


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In this case, make sure you have spare microswitches.
Even in AEGs with standard V2/V3 switch, the contact point will wear or oxidize over time, and need to be polished or replaced once in a while. Microswitch contacts can not be polished easily so replace the entire switch is the way.

[forge]

I bought an Ares G36 with a bipod from Toronto Airsoft about 3 years ago, it shot like a laser for about 30 bbs, and has not worked properly ever since. Absolute POS gearbox/airseal/hopup; there was so much work to do on the inside I just cut my losses and used it for parts.
My KWA g36 that I bought in 2008 is 100x the gun, for about the same price. Almost ten years on stock internals....KWA G36 = bb hose.

[Okawesome]

Originally Posted by ccyg8774

I don't think 7.4V would be issue free. I don't even think the microswitch issue is "lipo-only".
I think the working current with everything stock and a 9.6V (maybe even 8.4V) NiMH battery would still be too big for the stock microswitch, and the switch bouncing causes more spark and more erosion on the contact points. As the contact points being "wear" with sparks the resistance increases and cause it able to pass even less current and it just keeping get worse... That's why I decided to switch to the combination of a bouncing free low current microswitch and a MOSFET. I don't even run 11.1V lipo on my G36C.

Hey there - revisiting this thread to ask more about microswitches. Can you give me an example of the microswitch you swapped in your G36? Once I know what I'm looking for I'm pretty sure I can find something similar.

[ccyg8774]

Originally Posted by Okawesome

Hey there - revisiting this thread to ask more about microswitches. Can you give me an example of the microswitch you swapped in your G36? Once I know what I'm looking for I'm pretty sure I can find something similar.

I don't remember, I found the model of the microswitch from a thread here on ASC. Try search for "microswitch" in older posts. I am not home now so I can't go find the model number on my switch.
Just be aware: The low bouncing switch is for very low current. Do not use it without MOSFET on any gun. The switch will be burnt instantly.
The low current switch is meant to control the small current to the MOSFET to let MOSFET to control the large current.
There are other ways to deal with switch bouncing, too, like adding a capacitor to the stock circuit.