August 6th, 2007, 19:48 | #16 |
Holy NECRO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That was a pointless necro. Why? |
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October 24th, 2007, 14:44 | #17 |
How would you go about creating engravings on your rifle. In specific AK metal body to write in yugoslavian info. EG.
http://www.milparade.com/kalashnikov...9/09_16_02.jpg |
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October 24th, 2007, 15:39 | #18 |
you would locate an engraver or machine shop in your local area and hope they are open minded
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November 12th, 2007, 02:17 | #19 |
how do you get the white print on the metal bodies, not the engraved ones.
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November 13th, 2007, 18:34 | #20 |
Ok, here's the deal. I've been calling several places now. After a while I narrowed it down. The guys who make car decals can't make ones as small as I need them to be and they can't do white on clear (this is what they said)
next I tried a silkscreening place, they also can't do images so small. Next was laser engraveing, I went ther today at lunch, and I find out that laser engraveing merely scratches the top layer off (simmilar to the sand blasting process) so it would come out shiny silver (since that is what the aluminum looks like underneath. I couldnt paintover it because there is no real depth and if I ever choose to repaint my gun I would loose it all. So now I am looking at hand engraveing at a jewllers but they charge around $200/hr so i'm not really want to do that. The other idea I hear of is stamping it, I will post more infor when it becomes available. If you have any great ideas i'd love to hear them. [to bring you up to speed if you don't already know i'm trying to find a way to imprint my own gun markings on my various gun bodies.]
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December 31st, 2007, 10:49 | #21 |
Hate to necro, but I found this is what I did in art class in high school once, and it works awesomely (not on a gun, but on a mag light).
The first process is creating a stencil. I used simple copper sheets, I can't remember the gauge, but it was fairly thin, so I'm sure it must have been around 10 gauge. Then we took some stamps with letters on it (you can pick these up from hardware stores). Once the letters were stamped into the copper, we used a dremel to cut into the letters. Then we just bent the cut stencil around the mag light. This created a stencil that could be used on something round. Once we had the stencil, we used a dremel again and carved out inside the stencil against the mag light. This created perfectly aligned letters that were etched into the metal properly. We then used some masking tape on the mag light, then used an exacto knife to cut away the area where the letters were etched and painted it in with white Tesco model paint from and aerosol can. I know it's involved, but you get a stencil that you can use on other projects, it makes doing multiple items a whole lot easier. I hope this helps. --- The next option is to bring it to a gunsmith who can do ID engraving, they'll usually charge less, but finding one that offers this service isn't exactly easy.
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January 20th, 2008, 19:50 | #22 |
Hello... I'm brand-new here - just happened upon the site today whilst Googling for tips about painting rifle markings. (Found what I needed - thanks!)
Anyway, I noticed the question about custom engraving and thought I'd share the email address of a gunsmith who does such work. He typically does custom engraving on FAL rifles, but I'm sure that he could work on Airsoft just the same. His prices start at around $150 (U.S.) or so and the results are awesome. You can reach him at pioneerparts@adelphia.net and you can see some examples of his work on the FALfiles (note that you must register to view this thread) at http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showt...hreadid=202340. Cheers, Robert |
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January 20th, 2008, 20:10 | #23 |
ya but hes in the states isnt he...
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January 21st, 2008, 01:02 | #24 |
January 21st, 2008, 01:05 | #25 |
No... No it doesn't. We'd get receivers seized by customs. And it's pointless when there's people in Canada who do it for less.
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March 25th, 2008, 17:38 | #26 |
i havent done detailing on any of my guns but i have on other things with the recessed letters and such. i just use those little testers i think (the model paint you get at walmart) just paint over everything and rub the excess away easily with your fingers before it dries too much.
since its an oil based paint the oils in your skin dissolves the paint
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July 9th, 2008, 07:11 | #27 |
use warhammer paint
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July 9th, 2008, 09:32 | #28 | |
Oh we do hate you, just never felt like wasting the time to give you a user title :P
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FinchFieldAirsoft |
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July 9th, 2008, 09:39 | #29 |
or just get it done by me...
check me signature for info/pics we just bought a crazy flat bed printer that can print on anything up to 8inches high, I will be posting pics of what it can do when it arrives this machine will be super cost effective for airsoft, as it is similar to the screened metal bodies, however it is much more permanent finish than the crappy screened ones which rub off easily... otherwise, we can laser or deep CNC and fill with enamel paint. or i can laser out the white vinyl and you can just stick em on yourselves, very easy process much cheaper than any other method I offer. as for hectic's suggestion on the fill, just goto canadian tire or your local paint shop, they sell these crayon style paint pens, or hobby shops sell tamiya paint pens that work very well. here is a body with the enamel crayon stick paint fill, works well, lasts forever. Last edited by djbordie; July 9th, 2008 at 09:43.. |
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July 13th, 2008, 17:55 | #30 |
if you are looking for some pre-made lettering tools that isn't too expensive, my wife scrapbooks and they have all sorts of rubber stamps that could be dipped in paint and some of them you can rearrange the little letters to say anything. There are also white transfer on dacals that could be clearcoated for durability.
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