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April 14th, 2011, 19:48
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#211 |
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The list:
spartan 117 eeyore Ross greydingoe W0lf ironsight bananabotdan spartan 34 Ophiuchus travis.niemczyk
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April 14th, 2011, 20:12
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#212 |
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have you already considered 7075 aluminum? i imagine so, i just didnt want to read the entire thread
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April 15th, 2011, 07:00
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#213 | |
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Quote:
MegaBeers, yea ive thought about making it from 7075 but I have nothing but 6061 sitting around so when i made one out of that and saw the finished product I was very pleased with it. It looks feels and is very very strong compared to that crap they had in there originally. If you put the two ears (the ones that usually break on the stock part) in a vice and tighten down on it, they wont snap, the just slowly bend and shoot out the vice into your face :-) (wear saftey glasses if you decide to do this once you get one) It takes alot of force, much more than that rifle puts out to break the new 027. Having said that while looking at the design of part 066 I see some things that I will have to change in order to make the part. The two groves that 027 slide on, the tracks, they will both be cut to same length which will obviously eliminate the one that stops before the other. So they will both be same length which in turn means that the Original part 027 CANNOT! and I repeat CANNOT be used with my part 066. I will get pics later to help explain. So to re-cap the stock part 027 won't work with my 066, but my 027 will work with any part 066. Sorry if that's confusing.  Deadpool you sir have been added Last edited by deadlydayne; April 15th, 2011 at 09:51.. |
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April 15th, 2011, 09:45
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#214 | |
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Add me on the list
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 Vérificateur d'age Mauricie Quote:
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April 15th, 2011, 14:56
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#215 |
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[QUOTE=So to re-cap the stock part 027 won't work with my 066, but my 027 will work with any part 066. [/QUOTE]
This wont hinder the quick disassemble will it? Also I was looking at some of my old hinge plates, all of them both reinforced and non reinforced fractured at the exact same point. In the pictures listed the black hinge plate is reinforced while the tan plate is not. Their failure points (highlighted in yellow and black) are EXACTLY the same. So much for WE "improving / reinforcing" the design. |
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April 15th, 2011, 15:02
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#216 |
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no sir, quick strip will still work. its just you see how that last picture you can see the channels that part 27 slides into. the one on the right ends before the angle begins, and on the left side (cant be seen in before mentioned pic) it ends right at the angle. I cant do that, you see the tool is round, and approx. 1" in dia. so no matter how i cut its going to be rounded on the inside, no matter how small the tool. so im cutting both sides as close to angle as possible and reshaping part 27 a little bit that way it slides in nice, without touching the radiused channels. so no matter what my part 027 will work with any scar on any part. But due to design of 66 it will only work with my part 27. you cant use the stock part 27 with my 66. I hope that cleared things up a bit. if not let me know and i will get some pics and edit them to help explain.
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April 15th, 2011, 15:08
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#217 |
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yup. mine broke in the same place.
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April 15th, 2011, 15:11
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#218 |
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ya see what its doing is the recoil spring is kicking into that plate constantly and that plastic is so damn brittle it just rips those channels right off the plate. So any version made of damn near anything other than plastic should hold. Thats my thought. So ill make it from the same aluminum that i made 27 with and everything should be beautiful. Is there anything else you guys would like to see made for the scar? any ideas?
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April 15th, 2011, 15:57
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#219 | |
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We scar triggers break a lot. They are made of the same monkey metal part 27 is. If you ask ra-tech for a cnc'd steel trigger for a we scar, they mail you a cnc'd WE M4 trigger. It's smaller and it doesn't function properly. I would only take one if it were made of steel. The ra-tech part that comes in contact with the trigger is made of steel, so I wouldn't want a steel lever rubbing against an aluminum trigger. It wouldn't last as long as steel on steel. ( I don't think, anyway) Also a steel this thing. http://airsoftbuddy.com/index_eprodu...roducts_id=220
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Last edited by Ross; April 15th, 2011 at 16:07.. |
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April 15th, 2011, 16:06
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#220 |
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no no aluminum would die inside the trigger, if it were to be a trigger system or even just sears itd have to be steel. any other ideas? any cosmetic parts?
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April 15th, 2011, 16:34
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#221 |
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It would be interesting to see if a lightweight "open" bolt carrier and gas mechanism could be made out of supper sexy, shinny, light weight aluminum. Could reduce the overall kick force assuming the speed of the bolt stays the same. Or it might increase the rate of fire of the open bolt system !EVEN MORE! (A scar that sounds more like a mac11). You could also carve images or designees into the bolt carrier simply for the sake of awesomeness.
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_i...ducts_id=32121 this is not the open bolt version but you get the idea: http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_i...ducts_id=32122 Longer cool looking outer barrels would also be really cool and simple to do. Perhaps add dimples like on the WE PDW. |
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April 15th, 2011, 16:40
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#222 |
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Tys
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Make a lightweight "bolt carrier" and guide rail...that's where all the ooomph of the impact is coming from.
The Bomber Super Lightweight bolt is significantly lighter vs. the stock one. In addition to just using a lighter material for the bolt, you could skeletonize quite a bit of it (a good portion of it is not structural). And skeletonize the guide bar/rail too. Also...but out of steel...it's always a good move to replace the stock piston body (the stumpy black tube that e-clips onto the bolt) with a steel model (stainless in most cases since RATech makes the majority of them). The flanges of the stock one are prone to flaring, which will allow the nozzle to flop around, which will wear/crash the cylinder, etc... The stock metal that they use is soft. It's been done already though, and relatively accessible...so probably not worth it. Crafting different charging handle knobs would be cool too...but that's not all that hard to do on a lathe. At flip down "G3 HK-ish" knob would be trick though...  Sweet work though on the stock plate. Machining swirls are mezmerizing aren't they? |
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April 15th, 2011, 20:02
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#223 |
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Doesn't anyone else want one of these? I don't need an exact copy, and actually I'd prefer something that allows me to install an M4 buffer tube or an M16 tube (AEG or RS) that way I could install a PRS stock on mine. The VLTOR units tube wouldn't allow the use of a full size stock. These would be cool on an AEG as well as it would allow the use of bigger batteries depending on what stock is used.
  
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April 15th, 2011, 21:23
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#224 |
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^^^^^^^^
Looks interesting but... 1. You would have to prototype the piss out of it as an existing model is not at hand this includes the buffer tube in the case of this picture. 2. the buffer tube looks like it was custom built specifically for this plate therefore more cost is involved in the production of a specific buffer tube, or the hinge plate has to be redesigned to facilitate the attachment of another brand of buffer tube 3. in my humble opinion I like the look of the boot more, it just flows with the shape of the scar. You also lose the folding ability of the stock which is something I use regularly while indoor and while entering and exiting sim vehicles, tight spaces, and dense brush in outdoor. I have no machining experience and I am probably talking out of my ass but that's what came to mind when I looked at that design. This said I would still love to see someone try it.  .
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April 15th, 2011, 21:30
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#225 |
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you about hit that one on the head there banana. it might be something cool but unless some one donates their m4 i cant do it. Im not a fan of m4's (hence my owning of a scar) so i dont have a buffer tube or car collapsible stock so i cant mock it up or even begin to design it.
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