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January 28th, 2007, 20:41 | #16 |
Official ASC Bladesmith
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Rub over all the lines 90deg with a white Crayola crayon, then use your funger to rub off the excess on the upper surface, it also packs and smooths the surface of your trades making them look like paint that won't yellow.
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January 28th, 2007, 20:43 | #17 | |
Official ASC Bladesmith
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Quote:
I'll add this, not all metal slides are milled out of a solid piece of a luminum like this, some are just pot metal (namely G&G crappy slides) that won't polish like this. Even though I think polished or even just silver Glock slides look like ass I gotta admit that one is nice! |
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January 28th, 2007, 22:11 | #18 |
kos
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wont the crayon come off eventually? I mean.. it's not like crayon is an adhesive .. Is there any prep involved, or does it just go straight on?
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January 29th, 2007, 01:54 | #19 |
formerly pivot
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I agree that chrome or silveresque guns only look good if they match your teeth, and I normally wouldn't have done it, but I bought the gun second hand and someone already tried to half ass sand off the slide. I thought I'd giver er a whirl and see how easy it was. I sold it shortly after as it's a hard piece to match with your kit. Sorry to semi jack your thread.
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January 29th, 2007, 02:04 | #20 |
More off topic as it winds on -
On yellowed trades, is there any way to whiten non-engraved and/or etched trades? (namely, the ones on my TM Mk23 silencer, which are also starting to look like 'alien piss')
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Vita, Passione e Pistole |
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January 29th, 2007, 14:23 | #21 |
formerly pivot
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Non engraved trades are just paint, if you want to clean them up use mild soap and water. If they are too far gone, you'll probably want to get a detailing brush, a whole bunch of spare time, and touch them back up with some white paint.
Ingraved trades that are dirty as well can be 'cleaned out' with a pin or similar then 're-rubbed' with crayon as metioned. |
January 29th, 2007, 14:43 | #22 |
Official ASC Bladesmith
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In places yes, eventually it'll wear off, but just have to reapply it every year or as needed. The reason you rub it with pressure and vigourously is to pack/compress the wax into the trades, as well as rub off the stuff on the surface. I still have full trades on a well worn KSC M11 that are intact (incidentally I used white all over but used red crayon on the FIRE part of the selector.)
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