|
|||||||||
|
Home | Forums | Register | Gallery | FAQ | Calendar |
Retailers | Community | News/Info | International Retailers | IRC | Today's Posts |
|
Thread Tools |
April 2nd, 2014, 14:34 | #1 |
AK Build
Okay , so i'm building a ak and i'm asking that are my parts okay for this projekt and if they are not , then what should i replace. For the inside i would wan't a some sort of "hybrid" gun. The base gun for this is a Cyma cm.028. And these are my goals : m115-m125 , 28-35 rps , best range possible , semi short as possible , no PE , whit semi only one bb at a time , reliable as possible.
Here are the parts : Cyman Ver. 3 , gearbox Stock tappet plate Stock trigger mechanism AIM cheesed full metal rack piston (2. teeth off , 3. 1/2 because fixing the AoE) AIM 7 ported piston head SHS piston head O-ring SHS aluminiun cylinderhead (double O-rings , AoE fixing whit 70D sorbo) SHS aluminium air nozzle whit O-ring MadBullin blue 60 hopup bucking Stock hopup chamber H-nub Stock 6,08 inner barrel 7mm bearings SHS 13:1 gears Steel anti reversal latch Lonex a2 motor 16AWG wires GATE NanoSSR mosfet DEANS 7,4v 1200 mAh 45/90C LiPo battery What do you think my setup ? Cylinder set has good compression. Do i need to replace any parts ? Will i get to my goals whit this setup ? |
|
April 2nd, 2014, 15:15 | #2 |
TM based AK eh. Would say if you are going to put money into a AK, start with a better base gun. LCT,RS,
VFC heck E&L if you feel daring. Ak externals have gotten way better since the time of the TM screw based AK47, |
|
April 2nd, 2014, 15:27 | #3 |
yeah you're building off a crap base
upgrade that first |
|
April 2nd, 2014, 16:38 | #4 |
I'm going to go the opposite, and claim it's an excellent base. Usually, what's trash in a lower-end AEG is the internals. Just like JG makes great G36 beaters, Cyma makes great AKs and MP5s. Since you're already swapping 90% of the internals, it doesn't make sense to pay more for better internals.
Now, going down your list, I see the typical error of replacing everything without knowing why, and creating a "lego-build". Imagine you're explaining that list to someone, like your girlfriend/friend/dog, and you have to be accountable for every part. Go down the entire list and justify every single piece. I've still added my comments, but don't skip the step I told you before. Geartrain: Lonex A2 motor [Good choice] SHS 13:1 gears [Makes sense for a high-speed build] 7mm bearings [Stick with full bushings for 7mm] Steel anti reversal latch [Brand? The stock one may be fine] Compression AIM cheesed full metal rack piston (2 teeth off) [If you're investing 20$ in a piston, get a Lonex one. For the lower end, get SHS or ZCI] AIM 7 ported piston head [Same as before. At this price, I'd get the proven Lonex piston head] SHS piston head O-ring [Not needed if you get an aftermarket piston head] SHS aluminiun cylinder head [Correct, but it can really hard to put on certain cylinders] SHS aluminium air nozzle [Be sure to get the right length. Measure the stock one with calipers] Stock tappet plate [As long as it's not too brittle, OK] Hop-up Here, either go standard with the PDI W-hold, go flat-hop with a Prometheus or equivalent kit, or go with the R-Hop. Lapping the stock barrel may do wonders. Electrical Stock trigger mechanism [Yep, that part doesn't matter much with a Mosfet] 16AWG wires [Good] GATE NanoSSR Mosfet [Good] Deans T-Connector [It's the current standard. You may want to look up for XT-60, if you're going to upgrade the rest] 7,4v 1200 mAh 45/90C LiPo battery [I'd get a battery with more mAh, even if you lose some C. Just be sure to stay around 50 amps (what you have right now)] |
|
April 3rd, 2014, 01:01 | #5 |
I'm not talking internals at all
The original TM ak design has two screws on the bottom of the reciever that basically hold the front end on its a terrible design thats prone to developing wobble. |
|
April 3rd, 2014, 01:08 | #6 |
Correction
|
|
April 3rd, 2014, 01:14 | #7 |
Official ASC "Dumb Ass"
|
my first like 20 ak's were tm design with crappy pot metal element bodies, never had any wobble issues, but strip that little screw that holds the gas block in place and boy you are screwed.
With the advent of the vfc/dboys/lct design and their nicer steel bodies, there really is NO reason to still be buying tm style ak's none whatsoever, except maybe for nostalgia lol
__________________
|
April 3rd, 2014, 01:33 | #8 |
Allright, I stand corrected. I misunderstood your point. Thanks for clarifying.
|
|
April 4th, 2014, 09:51 | #9 |
thanks for all the answers ! And about that piston , i use that because i allready have spare one. Same whit piston head , cylinder head and air nozzle. And what gears i should then get ? 18:1 ? Or should stay whit stock ones ? And what about bushings ? should i go whit stock ?
|
|
April 4th, 2014, 10:32 | #10 |
Ministry of Peace
|
Start with a better base gun like a VFC, G&G or LCT and you likely will only have to change the spring out to achieve what you are looking for. Today's high end AEGs don't need their guts replaced to get great results.
You are going to spend more money on a cheap AK upgrading it then just buying a higher end AK to begin with. I don't understand (What appears to me) to be this recent resurgence in newer players becoming obsessed with gear ratios, RPS and other highspeed internal issues. 99% of the time, when you are on the field, it's not who has the better performing rifle; it's who gets the drop on who, who has better fieldcraft, who can think one step ahead of their opponent. I've been using a stock CA SLR 105 for seven years, only upgrade was to replace the crappy piston that stripped. Never felt I died or someone got the better of me because their gun was more "souped up" than mine. Upgrade the player, not the gun. |
April 4th, 2014, 10:51 | #11 |
One of those 3 ASC armory brought in when they just came out? Mine is still around too I don't think I've replaced a single part in that thing if my memory serves me right.
__________________
Op Woodsman. Biggest WW2 event in Ontario. |
|
April 4th, 2014, 11:26 | #12 |
butthurt for not having a user title
|
I agree with everything said here except where the TM-style base matters all that much.
Nicer base guns are always better, but Cymas are pretty good work horses, TM-style AKs come apart and go back together really easily, and if this is a high-speed build you'll be working on it pretty frequently, so you could make a good argument either way. If you already own the stuff you listed I'd say you'll be pretty happy with your gun once it's all put together. |
April 4th, 2014, 12:12 | #13 |
That actually happens quite abit lol, ah simplier days of airsofting.
|
|
|
Bookmarks |
|
|