C7/8 body markings

[Ares]

Ok on one of these posts someone had a great breakdown of the body markings on the C7/8's and dumb ass me forgot to bookmark it and now I cant find it again.

It broke down the entire trades from the leaf to the serial numbers and letters.

Your help in finding this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[MaybeStopCalling]

This is from my WIP C7/C8 Guide (Still a work in progress, probably a couple of errors here or there, so double check):

MILITARY MARKINGS: Markings were made in the following manner for the C7s and C8s:

*Maple Leaf*
CANADIAN
FORCES
CANADIENNES
*Model Designation*
5.56 mm
*Serial Number*

So a certain C7 would have the following markings:

*Maple Leaf*
CANADIAN
FORCES
CANADIENNES
C7
5.56 mm
92AA00001

Now there’s a few other markings we have to be aware about. For newer models, these were often built on older C7 lowers. This means when engraving for a C7A2, for example, the A2 was printed years after the C7 marking. So the text for that line is not centred. Also note the marking for millimetre is in lower case, compared to the rest of the text being capitalized. Markings on the lower next to the fire selector kept the Diemaco logo even after Colt Canada came into being. These markings appeared as follows:

MADE IN CANADA
FABRIQUE AU CANADA
*Diemaco “D” Design*

FIRE CONTROL GROUP: The fire control selector has three modes. These are SAFE, SEMI, and AUTO. Canadian rifles differ in their markings, compared to rifles such as the M16A2 or the M4A1. There are three markings instead: “S”, “R”, and “AUTO”. “S” stands for SAFE. “R” Stands for REPETITION, AKA SEMI, and “AUTO” is... well... AUTO.

SERIAL NUMBER: Manufacturer markings are often replicated, and sometimes with alarming inaccuracy. This must be rectified for an accurate C7/C8 build. Serial numbers are of the format XXAAYYYYY. XX represents the year of manufacture. AA is the weapon code. Lastly, YYYYY is a unique, five digit identifier for that particular lower receiver. Most C7 lowers were made in 1987 to 1991, and a second order was placed in 1998-2000. Original C7s are identified with the code “AA.” Original C8s are identified with the code “AB.” C8FTHBs, C8FTHBA3, and C8A3s are identified with the code “AE.” For example, a receiver marked “05AE01024” was built in 2005, was intended for a C8FTHB (Given the year of manufacture for that lower), and has the unique identifier of 01024, indicating it is the 1024th rifle to come off the production line for that model. Further examples are shown below:

200th C7 lower built in 1994: 94AA00200
C8A3 lower built in 2009, 90th off the line: 09AE00090
C8 built in 1996, first off the line: 96AB00001
C7A2 with an original C7 lower built in 1987, 6285th off the production line: 87AA06285

The idea is that the lower determines the serial number. A rifle will have an extremely old serial number if the lower is that old, regardless if the refinished rifle was just shipped from Colt Canada to the local reserve regiment in a sealed crate.

EDIT: Relevant Picture

[Disco_Dante]

Any idea on how the Diemaco markings look on the rifles we shipped to Britain? I'm trying to finish an L119a1 Build, and would appreciated any help I can get.

[Ares]

Thats the one thanks

[MaybeStopCalling]

Originally Posted by Disco_Dante

Any idea on how the Diemaco markings look on the rifles we shipped to Britain? I'm trying to finish an L119a1 Build, and would appreciated any help I can get.

Not sure how accurate this is... but here you go:

[Disco_Dante]

I appreciate it thanks!

[The Chad]

Originally Posted by Disco_Dante

Any idea on how the Diemaco markings look on the rifles we shipped to Britain? I'm trying to finish an L119a1 Build, and would appreciated any help I can get.

Your build, is it AEG or GBBR?

[Disco_Dante]

Originally Posted by The Chad

Your build, is it AEG or GBBR?

Gbbr, WE open bolt, why do you ask?

[The Chad]

Shit, cuz I have an L119A1 lower for WA.

[Disco_Dante]

Originally Posted by The Chad

Shit, cuz I have an L119A1 lower for WA.

Ah, shame the specs are off from WE! I have a blank lower that i use for my three uppers so im not going to get it engraved until i can have a dedicated lower.

[The Chad]

Originally Posted by Green Synergy

Not sure how accurate this is... but here you go:

Don't forget the markings on the other side of the upper.