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September 12th, 2006, 16:17 | #1 |
The Icing on the Cake...(Paint)
Okay; so we've dressed up the Guns and added every managable aftermarket part now what??, Oh yeah gotta put a new coat of paint because we like transition of colors and dont have the money to afford Color molded parts that the actual Firearms companies are bombarding us with; or maybe you wanna give it that certain camo finish that will make everyone wanna drool so much they leave slug trails and are easier to shoot in the field.
So what is the most durable coating that will not rub off prematurly ? I ran across a website awhile back when I was making Knives as a Hobby; I was looking for a Desert Tan and Green to apply to blades to give them a little more oomphh. They stated that this paint was more for guns as it dried with a more flexible hold and not stiff where abrasion and friction ( daily handling ) would cause it to wear off the high parts. Okay a Day late and a Dollar short ( I'm familiar to this song) , I did not mark it to my favorites folder. 8 months later I am here getting into Airsoft and looking at all the black guns leaves you a little "tired"; You see some of the Camo jobs using Canadian tire paint or Military surplus paint and see all the crap results where the high parts have worn down. What do you do, and what brand would you use??? I know alot of you have more expierience here so I will now shut up and try to learn something.................... :smack: |
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September 12th, 2006, 16:55 | #2 |
Honestly Krylon Camoflauge Systems Spraypaint does wonders, and generally speaking if you prep the AEG enough it will take longer for the pait to wear at contact points.
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Maybe you'll find someone else to help you. Maybe black mesa... THAT WAS A JOKE, ha ha, fat chance. My Buy/Sell 1337ness rating |
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September 12th, 2006, 18:00 | #3 | |
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Oh wait - are we talking about fielding painted AEG's in the field over long periods of time? I was under the impression that it's what your supposed to do after you paint it. |
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September 12th, 2006, 18:21 | #4 | ||
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Bearbait 37, no matter what you do, or how you paint it, if you actually use it, you WILL have paint wear. |
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September 12th, 2006, 18:37 | #5 | |||
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September 12th, 2006, 18:40 | #6 |
Silly question but where did you guys got your Krylon Camouflage paint ? I just dropped by Wal-Mart and they only had regular Krylon.
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September 12th, 2006, 18:56 | #7 | |
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September 12th, 2006, 20:31 | #8 | |
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Don't forget guys - base layer of Tan first before the OD. Light to Dark! |
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September 12th, 2006, 20:51 | #9 | ||
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Sand clean prime light dusting of tan (as poncho says, it really helps to bring out the OD) olive drab coating for a flatter look, spray your final OD from far away, like really far. The paint particles will slightly dry before they hit the part, greatly reducing gloss. |
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September 13th, 2006, 00:37 | #10 |
Guys I'm not trying to start a "Who-uses-their-AEG-the-most" argument here; i'm trying to learn as I go along with your expieriences as well as mine; bad or good comments aside; My AEG has never spent a day in its case but I am also not a Hardcore either. If I remember correctly I saw the Paintjobs at the 2006 Shotshow and the guns used were of the AR family ; I will check out their website again after I get out of this forum; Hopefully get a chance to get out and meet you all one day soon; Thanks Again ................
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September 13th, 2006, 01:01 | #11 |
Okay found it, The place is "Predator Custom" and the coating type is called Duracoat, there are also Teflon coatings for your metal parts; this should take care of the high spots and contact points
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September 13th, 2006, 01:03 | #12 |
I just finished pating my gun well not the gun since I ran out of tan paint but the accessories and what I did after applying my tan base is sprayed the OD from about 2 feet away so it would simply darken the shade. After that was done I did some OD stripes on top and the final result is perfect.
Just need to let it dry for a while now and get some more tan so I can finish the gun itself, some pics will be posted when it's done and whenever I can find the time to take good pics.
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September 13th, 2006, 13:12 | #13 |
Droc: Thanks for the tip; however on the Primer issue, do you use the type sold from Auto paint shops or the regular generic brand from say "Canadian Tire"?
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September 13th, 2006, 13:42 | #14 |
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I make my own.
But if your after the best end product, then yah, UAP NAPA sells some acceptable ones. I suggest the two part ones(main + activator) and run through a spray gun, but thats not something everyone can do(though not impossible. Some discount automotive places sell compessors damm cheap...Same with spray guns. For this kind of stuff, you dont need a $700 spray gun, heck, I picked up a spare gun for $40 from princess auto, they arnt the best, but they work...I have seen half-decent airbrushes for $20. Its not needed, but its one of these things that once yo get, you'll find all kinds of thing to paint with it). You should be fine with automotive primer from canadian tire. But if your painting a metal body, make sure you use a metal primer, if your using a plastic body, use a plastic primer. I highly suggest Dupont primers and paints. If its a high solid primer, a quick run with fine steel wool after it dries helps. I clean before priming. Usually with pure methel hydrate...and watch your fingers. Human oil is a bitch and can mess with spraying, so handel your parts with gloves. but thats just me. I spray professionally, so little things that matter to me, you'll prolly never notice. Many get excellent results with plain cheap spray paint. |
September 13th, 2006, 14:54 | #15 |
At $5 a can for the Krylon Camo - how can you go wrong. $20 after taxes get's you 3 colors that you can do a shitload with. I suggest yellow as well; Testors or Tamiya model spray paints work well.
A coat of clear matte preserves the job well too. |
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