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Old May 6th, 2013, 13:41   #1
Uberg33k
 
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Blown Fuse?

Hey guys,

I went to test my battery in my ICS M4A1 and it wouldn't fire. I checked all the connections etc and noticed that my fuse had a black mark on it, now I know when fuses blow at home or in a car it's a tell tale sign, but I'm new to AEG's so I need confirmation. Bellow is the fuse, can anyone tell me if that's blown or not? Thanks.

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Old May 6th, 2013, 13:43   #2
nichtessen
 
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Yep, that's blown.
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Old May 6th, 2013, 13:45   #3
Uberg33k
 
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Originally Posted by nichtessen View Post
Yep, that's blown.
Hardware store? Or is it ICS specific?

Oh and don't laugh but... what does the forward assist do on this weapon? I remember reading somewhere it should be pressed before taking the weapon apart? Again I apologize for my ignorance.
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Old May 6th, 2013, 13:48   #4
ILLusion
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Hardware store. Automotive section.

Usually, something would have happened to cause a fuse to blow in an AEG. Did you do anything to the gearbox lately? Change shimming? Put in a stronger spring? Use a new battery? Is there anything jammed?

Pressing the forward assist on the ICS guns disengages the anti reversal latch. Pressing it, holding it, and firing the trigger will release the tension on the piston so that you can properly disassemble it without tension. It's also best to release this spring tension before putting the gun in to storage to reduce the chances of the spring wearing down over time.
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Old May 6th, 2013, 13:52   #5
Uberg33k
 
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Originally Posted by ILLusion View Post
Hardware store. Automotive section.

Usually, something would have happened to cause a fuse to blow in an AEG. Did you do anything to the gearbox lately? Change shimming? Put in a stronger spring? Use a new battery? Is there anything jammed?

Pressing the forward assist on the ICS guns disengages the anti reversal latch. Pressing it, holding it, and firing the trigger will release the tension on the piston so that you can properly disassemble it without tension. It's also best to release this spring tension before putting the gun in to storage to reduce the chances of the spring wearing down over time.
No I didn't do anything except take it apart. Well not completely. I unplugged the cabling in the grip removed the pins one the receiver etc. I only removed the upper gear box not the lower. I did everything carefully and then back together again.

The battery is charged fully and I've tested it with my other AEG's and it works fine. I didn't notice the fuse prior to taking it apart so I don't know for sure if I caused it during.
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Old May 6th, 2013, 13:56   #6
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You may have reinstalled the grip cabling incorrectly. If you pinch the wire improperly, it may be pushing the motor's pinion gear too tight against the bevel gear. Or perhaps the disc that the plate's adjustment screw presses against may be out of alignment. This added pressure could be enough to blow the fuse. You need to get this sorted out as well.
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Old May 6th, 2013, 14:09   #7
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Originally Posted by ILLusion View Post
You may have reinstalled the grip cabling incorrectly. If you pinch the wire improperly, it may be pushing the motor's pinion gear too tight against the bevel gear. Or perhaps the disc that the plate's adjustment screw presses against may be out of alignment. This added pressure could be enough to blow the fuse. You need to get this sorted out as well.
I've never removed anything wiring wise actually, I only disconnected what's shown bellow.



"Or perhaps the disc that the plate's adjustment screw presses against may be out of alignment. " Which adjustment screw?
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Old May 6th, 2013, 14:10   #8
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Ah, my apologies. When you referred to "grip", I'd incorrectly assumed you were referring to the pistol grip which houses the motor.
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Old May 6th, 2013, 14:13   #9
Uberg33k
 
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Here's an image of what I did. That's it, didn't touch anything else.



P.S. Is it normal for the gears to be really hard to turn?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ILLusion View Post
Ah, my apologies. When you referred to "grip", I'd incorrectly assumed you were referring to the pistol grip which houses the motor.
I did remove the motor before when painting but I tested the weapon and it fired fine at that time. Although now that you say it I'm wondering that even if it fired okay was it in too tight like you mentioned and it blew AFTER I tested it, i.e on the last shot?

Last edited by Uberg33k; May 6th, 2013 at 14:15..
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Old May 6th, 2013, 14:17   #10
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The only thing that I can see that you may have potentially done to cause the fuse to blow, is reinstalling the wiring backwards: ie, mixing up the polarity between the spade plugs. If you went negative to positive and vice versa (red to black), rather than +:+ & -:- (red:red, black:black), then that would cause the motor to catch on the AR latch, and a huge current spike would cause the fuse to blow.

This is assuming that whomever retailer you got this gun from had a properly upgraded the gun. One of the biggest flaws I've seen with Canadian market AEG's, is that a gun that's meant for 300fps, had a 407+fps spring thrown in to it without any other care for the gear torque ratio or the current load on the fuse. In some cases, I've seen these springs shooting 450fps! This huge load drastically increases current draw, and causes a lot of blown fuses. I've seen this a lot less since the fps minimum has dropped to 366, but it still has potential to happen with the guns that have stronger springs sitting in the 400fps-ish range.

In any case, replace the fuse, make sure the wiring is correctly connected, and try again.

As for the gears being difficult to turn, yes, this is perfectly normal, especially if the motor is attached. The motor provides resistance.
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Old May 6th, 2013, 14:21   #11
Uberg33k
 
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Originally Posted by ILLusion View Post
The only thing that I can see that you may have potentially done to cause the fuse to blow, is reinstalling the wiring backwards: ie, mixing up the polarity between the spade plugs. If you went negative to positive and vice versa (red to black), rather than +:+ & -:- (red:red, black:black), then that would cause the motor to catch on the AR latch, and a huge current spike would cause the fuse to blow.

This is assuming that whomever retailer you got this gun from had a properly upgraded the gun. One of the biggest flaws I've seen with Canadian market AEG's, is that a gun that's meant for 300fps, had a 407+fps spring thrown in to it without any other care for the gear torque ratio or the current load on the fuse. In some cases, I've seen these springs shooting 450fps! This huge load drastically increases current draw, and causes a lot of blown fuses. I've seen this a lot less since the fps minimum has dropped to 366, but it still has potential to happen with the guns that have stronger springs sitting in the 400fps-ish range.

In any case, replace the fuse, make sure the wiring is correctly connected, and try again.

As for the gears being difficult to turn, yes, this is perfectly normal, especially if the motor is attached. The motor provides resistance.
Okay awesome. I'll change fuses and try it. I'm assuming if it blows again the problem could very well be the motor is too tight in the grip or the above. Luckily for me it's colour coded. Red to red, black to black.
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Old May 6th, 2013, 14:23   #12
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Yeah, it's pretty hard to screw up the wiring connection.

One test after replacing the fuse, is to just run the gun without the upper receiver attached. The gears should spin perfectly fine without too much noise coming from the gear action. It *should* sound quite smooth if they are shimmed well and your motor adjustment height is proper.

If that's good, re-attach the upper and go from there.
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Old May 6th, 2013, 14:27   #13
coach
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uberg33k View Post

P.S. Is it normal for the gears to be really hard to turn?
Yes, unless you remove the motor. Plus, you would only be able to turn in one direction due the the ARL.
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Old May 6th, 2013, 14:29   #14
Uberg33k
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILLusion View Post
Yeah, it's pretty hard to screw up the wiring connection.

One test after replacing the fuse, is to just run the gun without the upper receiver attached. The gears should spin perfectly fine without too much noise coming from the gear action. It *should* sound quite smooth if they are shimmed well and your motor adjustment height is proper.

If that's good, re-attach the upper and go from there.
I admit when trying to fit the motor back in I found it difficult. I failed to note how it was installed when I removed it to paint the grip that when it came time to reinstall it I was stumped for a while. I did get it in, even posted here on which colour was positive etc. I then tested it with a couple of shots and it seemed to work fine. I haven't touched it since today so I don't know. I hope it is something simple like the fuse because if not I'm a little screwed with a big game coming up and no time to get it fixed... or money for that matter. lol
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Old May 6th, 2013, 14:32   #15
ILLusion
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Originally Posted by Uberg33k View Post
I admit when trying to fit the motor back in I found it difficult. I failed to note how it was installed when I removed it to paint the grip that when it came time to reinstall it I was stumped for a while. I did get it in, even posted here on which colour was positive etc. I then tested it with a couple of shots and it seemed to work fine. I haven't touched it since today so I don't know. I hope it is something simple like the fuse because if not I'm a little screwed with a big game coming up and no time to get it fixed... or money for that matter. lol
Just buy a few extra fuses, and bring it to the game. If it's your motor, then someone should be able to sort you out quickly.

But, if something else happened... you may be SOL on game day... lol
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