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May 13th, 2012, 10:49
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WIP: Upgrading Your Tokyo Marui Glock
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Introduction: Upgrading airsoft guns is a lot like playing that computer game World of Warcraft. In the game, you have to pick a tech tree or character build to learn abilities useful for the role you are planning to fill in the game. Likewise, in airsoft you have to choose which ‘tech tree’ or ‘build’ you want for your platform. Having a ton of aftermarket parts to choose from can be daunting. I’ve received numerous requests on which part to upgrade for range, for accuracy, for power, for longevity, etc. More importantly, I’ve gotten a lot of questions on fitting. So for the newbies out there, here is a little guide that will include everything you need know to about most of the aftermarket parts catered to the Tokyo Marui Glock 17, Glock 18c and Glock 26/Glock 26 Advance platform. ***I will keep updating this thread as i find more parts in my parts locker or purchase new ones. So i apologize in advance for all the revisions.*** DISCLAIMER: Please note that this is the culmination of hours and hours of ordering, fitting, swapping, experimenting to determine the effects of each aftermarket part, diagnosing broken Marui Glocks and fixing them accordingly, ETC. And YES, I have bought all of the parts and tried them. So take what you want from it. Please also note that this is catered to the new guys on the forum who might have a few questions about their Tokyo Marui Glocks. Veterans, please don’t flame me  Quote:
There is three models of Glocks from Tokyo Marui: The Glock 17 (G17), Glock 18c (G18c), Glock 26 (G26). Here’s how they look like: The Glock 17 (G17):  The Glock 17 is the most customizable of the Marui Glock pistols. This Glock version is known for its reliability and accuracy. What sets it apart from the other two Marui Glock is the standard size frame with no select fire. The Glock 18c (G18c):  The select fire version of the Glock 17. The 18c offers a full auto function as opposed to the single, semi-auto of the Glock 17. As such, with the added select-fire function, the Glock 18c has a different internal set up. Contrary to what I’ve seen on this forum, the internals of a G17 and G18c are not 100% interchangeable. So parts you can and some parts you can’t. Externally, the Glock 18c has a ported slide and outer barrel while the Glock 17 does not. The Glock 26 (G26) and Glock 26 Advance:   This the precursor to the other two Marui Glocks. This was the first Glock TM has ever made. The G17 is modeled after the G26a. What sets this Marui Glock apart from the other two platforms is its size. This is a compact Glock, meaning, for concealed carry, the G26 has a much smaller EVERYTHING. Some call this the “Baby Glock”. The Glock 26 Advance is the Glock 26 beefed up to make a standard size pistol. The G26 Advance has a compensator attached with an extended under rail and lengthened magazine. The rear sights are also different from the standard Glock sights as the G26 Advance uses a Bomar style rear sight. NOTE:[I] Some retailers sell their Glocks with a designation of which Generation Glock it is. Ie, 3rd Generation Tokyo Marui Glock 17 (or something like that). This NOT the third version of the same Tokyo Marui Glock (it’s not a revision of the product) but it’s the designation from the Glock generations of the real steel counter parts.[/I] The Upgrades From this point on, you have to pick an upgrade tree. That is, you have to consider how you want your Glock to function (what strengths would you like to enhance, what weaknesses would you like to improve) and what scenario you’ll be using it for. Thus, pick an upgrade tree that will maximize that specific attribute or characteristic. I can’t atone for range, accuracy or power because I don’t know which ‘tech tree’ you are going after. I can only give you options. SO here we go… External Upgrade Parts: Slide (+1 durability, grants the wielder the ability to use Green Gas):  Shooter’s Design: Shooter’s Design offers the second most options for slide replacement. Shooter’s Design offers a Caspian slide, a custom ported slide making the slide a bit lighter, a silver and black color scheme of the original slide and so forth. The fitting on most Shooter’s Design kits, most recently, are on par with PGC Kits. The only real difference in this respect is that the Shooter’s Design slide kits tend to have more of a wobble than its PGC counterpart. Guarder: Guarder is probably one of the most problematic slides in terms of fitting. Though having a stronger(?) 7075 aluminum material, the BBU needs some modifications to fit perfectly. On some of the slides that I’ve tested, the rear sight didn’t line up with the BBU properly and the screw was in a slight angle. This was due to the fact the slide didn’t accommodate the sides of the BBU properly. So expect to make modifications if you choose a Guarder slide. Even with that said, it’s important to note that these slides are pretty good quality. The trades on these things are simply amazing. The TF 141 and Desert Storm slides are very well detailed and fabricated. These slides are also the most polish friendly of all the slides on the market. The CNC Machined steel slide is probably the best steel slide I’ve seen for the Glock 17 in terms of trademarks and finish. Airsoft Surgeon: The Airsoft Surgeon slides is one of the most expensive slide kits out on the market. These are meant for the airsofter with deep pockets. The finish on their two tone slides are very well made and very well polished. Fitting wise, they are identical to the Shooter’s Design slides where you would need some lubrication for a good cycle and to get the BBU to drop in place. BoomArms: I’ve only experimented with one of these so my perspective might be a bit ‘off’. The BoomArms slides are on par with the Airsoft Surgeon slides in terms of quality but with a more budget friendly cost. They offer a SHUEY Custom slide for the G17. And they are beautiful. Detonator: This is the most expensive slide to date. There are three types that I used on my G17: The Bowie Tactical Hybrid slide, a Glock 22 and a Glock 34 slide. The quality on these slides are superb. Very detailed and no problems with fitting. GunsModify Slide RMR Slide Kit- This kit comes with EVERYTHING you need to make a Salient Arms International slide with the melted optic. It has the BBU, the Trigger, the Lightweight Aluminum Blowback housing and more! It’s expensive for this reason. Quality wise, I was very happy with the way mine fit on. It wasn’t as as easy as I had hoped but it wasn’t terribly hard. 5KU: These slides are for the players with a budget (sorry). They will function as a replacement for the plastic slide but often require fitting modification to get the gun to cycle properly. Particularly, the slide guide rail is way too tight and is off by a decimeter. Thus, the slide tends to get ‘stuck’ . Outer Barrels: (+1 Durability, Grants the wielder the ability use Green Gas and grants equal weight distribution) NOTE: Outer Barrels come with the slide and are sold as sets.  Guarder: There are two versions of the outer barrels available from Guarder that are sold separately from the slide/barrel set: the older one piece outer barrels and the newer two piece steel outer barrel and chamber combination where the barrel is screwed on to the chamber. Both are available in both aluminum and steel materials. Due note that the steel version of the new version is much heavier and requires much more time to break in. Also, Guarder does limited runs for screw barrels in silver for the G17. Most Guarder screw barrels are black with limited runs in stainless steel versions. The barrel that comes with the slide set is made of aluminum. And should be the ‘default’ outer barrel when using a Guarder slide. Shooter’s Design: Shooter’s Design makes separate outer barrels from the slide sets but they do limited runs of the product. If you can find one, the fit on them is a bit tight around the hop-up unit. Be prepared to lube your hop-up assembly to drop in. PGC: As I mentioned before, the PGC Slide/Barrel set is probably the most drop in friendly set on the market for the Marui Glocks. They don’t make aftermarket barrels, but if you can find a separate outer barrel from them, I highly recommend you buy it much more than the latter products. Detonator: The Detonator “Lone Wolf” Custom outer barrel is primarily for the G17, though most retailers will advertise it being useable with the Glock 18c. It’s threaded in 14mm +/- depending on which one you’re after. These are beautiful but are only available overseas and are limited run parts. Barrel and Slide Cross-compatibility: (-1 Smoothness of cycle rate, +1 Headaches, Grants the ability to use Green Gas and Headache Ability) It is important to note that you should NEVER mix and match the slide and barrel between two different brands. One brand has different tolerances than the other. Even being off by a millimeter can set in motion imminent failure for your gun. Material: But should you be inclined to use a specific barrel with a specific slide, you should be mindful of the type of material you are mixing. Steel vs Aluminum, 6061 vs. 7075, Die Cast vs Aluminum/Steel, and the list of possible combinations can go on. Steel is heavier than aluminum, aluminum is much better quality than die cast metals. Steel will withstand more wearing than aluminum since it is much stronger and heavier. If you’re barrel is steel made, look forward for that barrel to eat away your aluminum slide. If you’re after steel slide but have an aluminum outer barrel, look forward to tolerance of the ejection port being off by a few decimeters. Brands: One might be inclined to purchase, install and use different aftermarket parts to attain a specific look or function. Thus, here is the barrel/slide compatibility with the best fittings (apart from the original slide/barrel OEM sets). Though this may seem like conjecture and is open to debate, I have tested these fittings myself and have noted some of the behavior of the gun while running these set ups. PGC Slide: (+1 Durability, +1 Rate of Fire, +1 Cycling) -Compatible with ALL ALUMINUM barrels with no modifications needed. -Not recommended to use with steel barrels (wear much quicker than the latter aftermarket slides) like Guarder’s 2011 version PGC Outer Barrel: (+1 Durability, +1 Smoothness) -Compatible with all aluminum slides only. -Perfect drop in for the hop-up -Works extremely well with Shooter’s Design, Guarder and Detonator aluminum slides Shooter’s Design Slide: (+1 Durability) -Perfect with PGC and Guarder Aluminum outer barrels -7075 Strong and durable able to withstand steel barrels Shooter’s Design Barrel: (+1 Durability) -Perfect for the Guarder steel slide -Even with a SD Slide, it’s not a perfect drop in needs minor adjustments for smooth operation Guarder Slide Aluminum: (+1 Durability) -Troublesome with outer barrels other than Shooter’s Design -Airsoft Surgeon barrels are either too tight or too loose around the ejection port Guarder Slide Steel: (+1 Weight, -1 Rate of Fire) -Steel slide needs proper combination upgrades for a smoother cycle -Should only be used with steel barrels Guarder Outer Barrel: (-1 Smoothness (steel), +1 Weight) -Not recommended to use with PGC slide (will eat away the ejection port much quicker as the dimension of the chamber are off) -Shooter’s Design 7075 slide is perfect -The hop unit is very tight fitting. If not lubed properly, it will eat away a layer -Some are aluminum but now are primarily made out of steel Airsoft Surgeon Slide: (+1 Aesthetics, +1 Quality) -Best use in conjunction with Guarder, Shooter’s Design and PGC Outer Barrel Airsoft Surgeon Barrel: (+1 Quality, +1 Durability) -Best use in conjunction with all aluminum slides BoomArms Slide: (+1 Aesthetics, +1 Durability) -Best use ONLY WITH BOON ARMS Barrel and PGC Barrel BoomArms Barrel: (+1 Aesthetics, +1 Durability) -Best use in conjunction with BoonArms Slide and PGC Slide Detonator Slide: (+1 Aesthetics, +1 Durability) -Suitable for all aluminum barrels -Accommodates all tolerances from different barrels Detonator Barrel: (+1 Durability) -Best use with all aluminum slides 5KU Slide: (-1 Quality, +1 Durability) -Only use with Aluminum barrels -Not Recommended for Guarder Barrels -Internals may need modification to drop in 5KU Barrel: (-1 Quality, +1 Durability) -Best use in conjunction with aluminum slides -Not recommended for Guarder steel slides Ruggedized Miniature Reflex Sight System (RMR) Slide Kits : (+1 Aesthetics, Grant the ability to use a red dot sight system)  Aesthetically, they are usually modelled after the Salient Arms International slide models. But you can find the ZEV Tech RMR slide kits. But buyer beware. Depending on where you buy these kits from or who makes them, the reflex sight is very brittle. One client of mine said that the lens on his reflex sight popped out. Another said that while mounting the sight, he lost a protective rubber ring and the a bit of moisture got into the circuit thereby destroying the sight system. Because these are slide mounted optics, make sure you either buy a decent mini optic system that is shock resistant if you are planning on using it during your endeavors. Sooo.....yeah. Prime: So this kit is very made. The slide itself does not need any real modification made to fit the BBH. It marries well to the frame assembly and with ease. The tilt on the barrel was not too bad. The PPT reflex sight it comes with require slight modification to fit. Otherwise, the sight is not usable with this kit. ACE 1 Arms: So this kit is not as choice as other alternatives. The fit is terrible. One a few of the ones that I worked on, I the slide doesn't actually allow the slide to travel far enough to engage the slide lock. The quality is not bad but it's not the greatest either. The paint on the gold barrels are terribly soft and so easy to rub off. Ok choice. At best. Gunsmodify: I like these but I believe that the Prime ones are much better in terms of their fit and quality. Good quality on the barrel in terms of surface finishing. It's the most durable finish of them all I think. Nebula ZEV Style RMR Slide and Barrel Kit: OEM'ed by NOVA, this kit is one of my favs. Although not visually appealing, this kit was compatible with all almost every Aftermarket slide rail and blowback unit I had in stock. The action was so fluent that a stock recoil spring was enough to carry the slide with the reflex sight installed and was able to chamber a round with ease. SIGHTS: (+1 Aesthetics, +1 Sight Picture, MAY Grant the ability to use sight system in dark areas)  Note that the rear sights of the G17 are different from the G18c. Thus, you will need to heavily modify the rear sight post in order to fit a G17 rear sight on a G18c. G26’s are the same as G17 rear sights. GunsModify: -Medium expense -Durable night settings -Drop in perfectly for any slide -Not Cross compatible with G18c and G17 Guarder Steel Night sights: -Perfect drop in for all slides (front and rear) -Steel slides may need slight sanding for a snug fit -Decent glowing power with a medium lifespan -Inexpensive NINE Ball Tritium Sight: -Expensive -Not Cross compatible with G17 and G18c -Careful you don’t damage the 3h vial when installing -Be prepared to modify the front sight 5KU Metal Night Set: -Cheap -Glow Sights are pure crap -Even though advertised in use with ALL Marui Glocks, Not Cross compatible with G17 and G18c SA Glow Sights: -Not Cross compatible with G17 and G18c -Cheap -Fiber rods are cheap quality and do not glow well AIP International Fiber Optic GLO Sights: -Cheap -Only for G17 -Fiber rods do not fit into sight Detonator: -Very good sights -Metal -Has cut outs on the mount base so that the BBU does not need to be modified to accommodate it. Thunder Airsoft: -Weird looking sights -Integrated rail for attaching slide mounted optics -Not the greatest sight in the world -Its weight will add more to the total slide weight Quote:
Magazine Catch: (+1 Ergonomics, Grants the ability to speed reload)  Guarder Steel Magazine Catch: This is one of the four magazine catches available on the market. It feels nice on the fingers. Fits best. Airsoft Surgeon Diamond Extended Magazine Catch: This is for the IPSC based Glock gun. It is intended for faster reloads by increasing the raise on the magazine catch. Good quality. AIP Aluminum Magazine Catch: Affordable magazine catch but it wears much faster than the latter. Shooter’s Design Magazine Catch: Like Guarder’s. SAPH Stainless Steel Magazine Catch Good drop in fit. Require a bit of wearing for the magazine to mate properly. Thunder Airsoft: -Good but not great -The paddle prevented mine from releasing the magazine fluently Slide Catch: (+1 Ergonomics)  GunsModify: This part is very easy to install and drops right in. No need to sand things AIP Extended Slide Catch: Again, No modification required. However, it seems a bit more brittle than the GunsModify one Guarder Extended Slide Catch: Fairly Easy to install. You MIGHT have to modify the rounded edged. Some of the ones I installed were sooo tight that the part didn't actuate properly. Guarder what's going one!!?? Trigger: (+1 Aesthetics, +1 Ergonomics, Grants shorter trigger pulls) GunsModify Version 1: They sell two different colors: silver and black. Both have 3 interchangeable colors for safety triggers: red, black and silver. This trigger is adjustable but the trigger bar negates this feature as the cut on the trigger is not exact. Thus, if you want to use this feature, you need to sand your trigger lever. GunsModify Version 2 "Salient Arms": There is a slight difference from version 1. The most notable one is the design. It looks like an RS version of Salient Arms trigger. THe second is that the design of this version is much more drop in friendly. It still negates the trigger safety if you adjust it but I find that you don't have to modify it to fit the Marui Trigger bar. Beware though, this version does not come with the very thin plastic disk for the G17 trigger bar. Thus, if you’re using a G17 trigger bar, it will rattle around. Airsoft Surgeon Salient Arms Trigger: This is almost the same as the GunsModify Version 2 trigger. However it can not be manipulated as easy as the GUnsModify one. For one, I think it's primarily made for the G17. When I tried to fit a G18c trigger bar on, it as a bit tight because the width of the trigger bar itself was bigger. The Frame: (+1 Aesthetics, +1 Durability) -01.jpg) Guarder makes a replacement frame with a reinforced front screw post. The post has been packed and uses a different screw casing altogether. The plastic is durable and has less flex than the stock Tokyo Marui frame. Plus it contains all the proper trademarks in all the right places if you’re that type of guy. This frame can accommodate all internal parts very well. The magazine catch is a bit of fight but no modification is needed. The other frame alternative you can have on your Glock is the clear, transparent lower frame. These are not upgrade frames but rather serve as a temporary replacement. You should only use these in conjunction with duster as they are very weak and tend to crack all over the place after a few hundred rounds with green gas. My first Glock was a cansoft TM G17 and the frame cracked after plinking a few rounds on Green Gas. They may be useful for emergency purposes but not ideal for permanent use. Internal Upgrades: (+1 Durability, +1 Cycling, +1 Functionality) Before we go on, it is important to note that the more aftermarket parts you add on to your gun, the more it tends to break down. This is solely based on parts having a hard time marrying to OEM components. SO, you have to be precise in what it is you are trying to upgrade on your gun. Also, the more you take your gun apart, the more it becomes prone to failure. Half the guns that I’ve had to fix are things that the owner did wrong when he put the gun back together. Look at it this way: “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” 150% Recoil Springs and Spring Guides: (+1 Cycling)  Upgraded recoil springs are designed move the heavier aftermarket slides as opposed to the lighter plastic stock slide. Do note that the heavier the slide assembly, a stronger recoil spring is required to carry that slide. And vice versa. Improper usage of springs can damage your Glock. Using a high power spring on a lighter slide brings a lot of stress on your front screw post and thus will destroy it. A heavy slide with a light powered spring won’t cycle your gun properly. Also, note that the stronger you make your recoil spring, the less recoil you’re going to feel. This is because the spring will resist the rear slide stroke even more reducing the slides velocity as it travels to the rear. Stronger spring = lesser felt recoil Most springs come with an enhanced recoil guide rod. I’m not going to list all of the different brands as there are just simply too many manufacturers that make these but here are a few of the well known brands that I used: Guarder: Guarder makes both the spring and guide rods. You can buy them together or separately. These are perfect for use with Guarder slides. They are generally a bit stronger than the latter Shooter’s Design springs of the same power. Shooter’s Design: The spring is a bit stronger than Guarder’s even though they boast the same power (150%). It usually comes with a stainless steel recoil rod. Can carry all aluminum slides just fine. However, the top spring plug tends to unscrew itself so make sure you check regularly to make sure it’s still properly seated. SA: It’s decent quality. It’s steel but the guide rod has more components than the average SD or Guarder spring kits available, which means it needs a little bit more attention than the latter. Firefly: This is again a two-stage spring set. Comes with a buffer spring to help with the recoil. Not recommended for steel slides. NineBall: This is the only spring/guide rod set that has shock buffers preinstalled for the G18c. This has a weaker spring because of the buffers. It was designed for use with the stock slide. This will short stroke your pistol. Alternatively, NineBall also makes the non-buffer enhanced set so you can still have a slide lock on empty. Your choice. MAMA: It's ok. A little stiff. It will short stroke the gun a little bit. The spring guide it come with is...OK...at best. Those are just a few. I have experimented with a lot of different brands and I’ve found these to be the best of the best. Hammer Springs: (+1 Power)  Hammer springs are not necessarily a must have upgrade. You only need stronger hammer springs for the summer as the gasses tends cook and expand inside the magazine in hotter weather. Thus, the pressure from inside the magazine pushing unto the blow off valve is heavier and requires a good strike from the valve knocker to achieve optimal gas output. Hence, the need for a stronger spring. It has also been noted in the past that the newer Glock versions do not need a hammer spring upgrade as they have already been fitted with one that can handle hi-flow valves. Again there are many manufacturers of this part so I’ll only stick to a few: Guarder: This spring usually comes with the recoil spring upgrade. This is probably the best fitting of all the brands. Shooter’s Design: This needs slight modification for ALL the Glocks. You may need to cut the ends a bit to fit. This is much more reliant than Guarder’s spring and is my choice as far as hammer springs go. SA Enhanced Hammer Spring: "Enhanced “doesn't neccesarily mean a strengthened spring. This one seems to be weaker than Guarder's and SD's spring but stronger than the stock one. It doesn't really work on a hot magazine and will continually give you light strikes. Element: Same as SA's spring. They both act the same way. Quote:
 Inner barrels are the case-by-case basis. It really depends on what you are doing with your Glock. For regular skirmishes and CQB scenarios, a 6.01 tight bore inner barrel isn’t necessarily a compulsory upgrade since you’ll have a primary weapon. Whereas, If you are using Glock for some type of shooting competition (NOTE: the G18c is not a competition gun and is not allowed in most shooting competitions) where accuracy is a must, then a 6.01 inner barrel is feasible. Due note that because the G26 is a sub-compact pistol, you won’t be able to interchange the inner barrel with the G17 or G18c. Also note that the tighter the bore, you will be required to use very high quality BB’s (Bastards FTW) to prevent damage. Here are some but not all inner barrels to consider: A+ 6.01 Precision 97mm Inner Barrel for Marui GBB Pistols (5.1/Glock/P226): This isn't the best TB out there but it does a decent job. It behaves in the same manner as PDI's regular barrel (the silver one, not the Palsonite version). Sometimes, I got a jam using this barrel. PDI: Available in 6.04, 6.03, 6.01 bore for G17/G18c PDI’s inner barrel is probably the most common. Even though it is of decent quality and decent price range, it very has a tendency to become a bit of a pain in the long run. They somehow tend to eat up your hop-up rubber. Energy: Available in 6.01-6.04 bore This is probably the lower quality brand of inner barrels. Made out of Aluminum, you’ll need to add a layer of tape to stop it from wiggling around. First 6.03 Inner Barrel: This a good replacement barrel for the skirmish/CQB scenarios. It’s relatively inexpensive and can easily marry to all the outer barrels on the market. Falcon: Available in 6.01-6.03 bore Good quality. Some come with hop up rubber. Some are a bit tight fitting on the hop up assembly. Tanio Koba: This is probably the best bang for your buck inner barrel on the market. The Hop Twist inner barrel is quite unique and found to increase accuracy greater than the other products. KM: KM is the only inner barrel that I’ve comes across that gives you both a power and accuracy upgrade for your G26. It’s a mid range product. Good but you can probably do a lot better. Airsoft Surgeon: Fits right in and has no trouble marrying with all the different outer barrels on the market. It’s pricey but worth it. Note that these were limited runs with different barrel lengths: 6in, 7in, 8in. Airsoft Surgeon Non-Hop inner barrel for Glock: This version of the AS inner barrel has an inner bore of 6.02mm. It has no hop up. This barrel will increase your FPS by a bit. There is more but I have so many out of their packages that I don’t know what brand they are. So I’ll just leave it that for now. Floating Valves: (+1 Durability, +1 Gas Efficiency, +1 Power) For the most part, you don’t really need to worry about floating valves breaking in your stock Marui Glock. They are a very well made OEM parts and will handle green gas just fine. But if you’re looking for a bit of an upgrade of gas efficiency, the floating valve is a good place to start to make the changes. Firefly: Firefly rocket valves are probably the most ideal floating valve systems for the G18c. Having a full auto pistol means that you will expel a lot of gas thus gas efficiency is a must. Firefly does a very good job of filling in for the stock system. AABB: This is a whole replacement set for the loading nozzle assembly. This is made from plastic. Its not recommended as this is made from non-reinforced plastic. This one broke on me after a couple a couple magazines. Action Aluminum Floating Valve for Glock: This is good enough to run in your Glock. It’s lightweight and easy to install. SilverBack: Same as AABB. RCC: This is a heavy floating valve. The holes are bigger allowing for more airflow. However the floating valve head has no cone to direct the airflow traffic. I like it though. It functions well. High Output Blowoff valves (High Flow Valves): (+1 Power) Guarder: -Gain about 20-30 FPS depending on weather -Fits tightly and seals much better than the competition Nineball: -Dont buy it! Action: -Gain about 20-25 FPS depending on temperature -Inexpensive but good performer -O-Ring tends to dislodge KM: -Gain about 28-31 FPS -Good performer Loading Muzzles: (+1 Durability) Note that this part is not cross compatible. An G18c loading nozzle is different from a G17 and G26 Airsoft Surgeon Enhanced Muzzle set: I like it. I like it alot!! BUY IT. BUY IT NOW!!! AABB: As mentioned above, this is not an ideal replacement part. Made out of plastic, it still flexes like the stock loading assembly. Guarder: Requires little to none modifications to fit and gets along with the internal components very well. But some operators have been reporting problems with breakage after a few mags worth. see the thread posts. AIP Enhanced Loading muzzle It's ok. It's not the greatest. IT comes in a set that includes a floating valve + FV Spring. THe floating valve sux! SilverBack: Belongs with AABB in the lower tier upgrades. The fitting on these sets are horrible and doesn’t glide smoothly even with lubrication. GunsModify: I'm still testing these on how durable they are. So I can't speak for how long they will last. BUT the good news is that they are pretty good in terms of fitting. They will move in and out freely and little force. It also fits with very with the hop up unit. UAC Glock 17/18c Aluminum Loading Muzzle: Careful when using this. I have seen these freeze in cold weathers. Also, metal muzzles tend to ruin hop up rubbers. Future Energy: Cheap. Stay awaaaayyy!Mine broke in the first hundred rounds.... Quote:
Hop Up rubbers increase the air seal around the the inner barrel. Thus, improves the airflow on you Glock. The effects of a good hop up rubber is evident through increased accuracy, range and a slight power increase. If your hop-up is not tuning properly, check to see if your bucking is still good shape. You don't want this part wearing down. Note that the harder buckings are made for higher velocity guns. But since the Glock won't reach any higher than 310-325 FPS, you will be dealing with mostly soft buckings as they tend to work better with lower velocity guns. Harder buckings are more for your standard rifle than a pistol. Here are some that are worth noting. RA Tech Hop-Up Bucking: -Good use with the PDI TB Inner Barrel -Produces a tight seal Falcon Hop-up Bucking (sold with inner barrel): -Good for use with Falcon inner barrels -Harder than RA-Tech Firefly VSR-10 Hop-Up Bucking: -Soft -Good fit -Swells AIP Reinforced Hop-Up Bucking: -medium softness -wears quickly A+ Devil Hop Up Bucking (or something like that) -Only works if the clamp on the hop-up base is tight -Hop up has to be turned to maximum tightness to produce the results that the youtube videos showed -Best used in conjunction with an 01 inner barrel NineBall Hop-Up Bucking -I found these to be one of the best buckings for the Glock on the market -Produces a good seal on the BB -Gives good accuracy output with the TK Twist inner barrel PDI W-Hold Hop Up Bucking This is a very good alternative to the NineBall bucking. While the NineBall one gives you power, you'll get more accuracy with the PDI one. Note though that my experience with this bucking: it swelled after several hundred rounds. Quote:
AIP TM Glock 17 BBU Housing The AIP Glock 17 BBU housing was a perfect fit for my Guarder slides. THe don't need any modifications or lubrication to get into place. Rear sights were easy to align with the screw. The only thing I disliked about this casing is that it comes with an integrated piston head which doesn't provide a good airseal because the o-ring was a bit small. If you want to maximize the airseal using this thing, install a better o-ring than what it comes with. GunsModify Lightweight Aluminum BBU This was 50/50 for me. On one hand, it’s quite light and has a modular piston head mount. This meant that you could buy other piston heads and put them inside this thing and it will work. This ability is something that other BBUs currently on the market lacks. On the other hand, it required a TON of modification. Nineball Featherweight BBU casing/piston for G18c: This is a lightweight piston/BBU casing. It made of plastic so it weighs like...a feather amount. AKA Lightweight Aluminum BBU This is the exact same design as AIP’s. It has the same integrated piston head. All you can really do to create a good seal from this system is to shim the O-ring section on the piston head with the some duct tape or something. The difference between this one and the AIP one is that this thing fits like shit. A ton of modifications were made to make mine work right. Angel Custom Lightweight Aluminum BBU Once again, this mimic’s the AIP design. The finish on it is smoother than the GunsModify one. I don’t recommend this one though. Guarder Blowback Unit v1/v2 These are nothing special. As with typical guarder products, these blowback units are very inconsistent with measurements. Some of the ones that I've received did not line up with the slide rail guides. Another one had the bump for the hammer protrude waay too much. There are two versions of this unit. One is the lightweight one and the other is the alloy one with the stock weight. Both can fit real steel back plates. Get which ever you need. Hop-Up Casing/Base: (+1 Durability) AIP The AIP hop-up base is an aluminum replacement for the stock hop-up base. It's much lighter than the stock one so it will lighten your internal assembly a bit. UAC Aluminum Hop Up unit It's ok. Aluminum means greater durability over the stock Marui unit. The screws threading on these sometimes break if you try to use some other screw. So Just watch out for that. The other thing is that this unit tries accomodate the Marui clone receivers as well. Thus you may encounter some issues during the action. Most notable if your outerbarrel doesn't tilt properly. TSC Aluminum Hop Up uni Ok Choice. I like the screws better from this unit. It has less potential of stripping when taking it apart as it uses the hex key instead. Front Chasis: (+1 Durability) Quote:
As a general overview, the most awkward part of installing this part on the Marui is the alignement of the slide lock. Make sure that your slide lock can freely move up and down so you can take the slide apart. Some of the front chasis don't accommodate this function too well in conjunction to aftermarket frames. Guarder Steel Front Chasis For Marui G26 So. This steel replacement is designed for durability. It's ok. But your running a stock frame, make sure you protect that front screw casing. Guarder Steel Front Chasis For Marui G17/G18c Once again, this part is an ok part to have. It's not the greatest. As once again Guarder's inconsistancies really take the center stage on this one. Tried with most slide types. Some were loose and some were uber TIGHT! The Guarder Steel Slides are won't even move with this rail system installed. So Buyer Beware! Creation Steel Front Chasis For Marui G26 So this one is a steel upgrade as well. It works waaaay better than the Guarder ones. Slide action is not the smoothest on these but it's much more consistent fitting with different brand slides. UAC Aluminum Front Rail Chasis This is a two piece set up. It fits most slides out there. You may need to work at it to get the manaul safety moving fluently but nobody really activates that part safety anyways. :P Rear Chasis: (+1 Durability) Be Very careful when investing in this part. Make sure you buy a MARUI SPECIFIC hammer housing. There is one key difference that the Marui hammer housing has that others don't. This difference is key because without it, it can make your hammer unit go on full auto if it's missing. Essentially, the slide will be spaced out far enough that when the slide travels above the hammer, it won't clamp enough to lock the hammer to the sear. Thus, full auto. UAC Aluminum Hammer Housing All the hammer parts fit nicely in here. All holes line up and they are very accomodating in terms of different slide manufacturers. Guarder Steel hammer Housing So this is comes in 4 different variations. Make sure you buy the MARUI Specific version not the KJW version or whatever stupid crap. Again, this one works exactly the Guarder front chasis described above. Valve Knockers: (+1 Durability) Shooter’s Design G17 Valve Knocker: Again, the valve knocker is a very high stress part. So will need to replace this part at some point or another. Steel made. Just like the hi-capa version though, you may need to shorten the strike face to get a fluent operation. Otherwise the valve knocker will be too long and won't slip behind the blowoff valve resulting in the dreaded light strike. Guarder Glock Steel Valve Knocker This the WORST fitting valve knocker I've ever had to deal with. It jams the hammer completely and will not fire the pistol. I suggest you look for alternatives. Gunsmodify Steel Valve Knocker So this part is weird. It's not compatible with some hammers. Particularly, some of the G18c hammers. I worked with millions of these. And they all have a the same flaw: it blocks the disconnector from dropping. AIP Steel Valve Knocker Needs modification. Look carefully on where you need to make the adjustments. These produce lightstrikes on their own. Hammers and Sear Sets: (+1 Durability) Guarder Steel Hammer: It fits very tightly on the trigger bar pin. Lube it lots and lots if this is the case for your gun. The hammer rotor also needs to be either modified to fit or lossened up with lube. Guarder Steel Sear: It's best to use this with the Guarder Hammer. The hammer hooks are a bit proud and you will need to have a longer trigger pull to release the hammer. At least, this was the case with my Guarder sear. lol. Guarder Hammer Rotor: This is non sense. You don't need to buy this part. The one that I got was too big and caused some slide action issues. GunsModify Zero Hammer: For the most part you don't need this replacement. The reason why this replacement came to market was because of the hammer tends to get caught and prevents the slide from fully cycling. SOmetimes, the slide won't fully return to battery because of this one part. The newer versions of the TM G17 have a much better hammer assembly and does not get stuck anymore. But I got one anyways. FOr the most part it does work. Taking the G17 down is much easier with this installed than the latter stock part. AIP Hammer Parts (for G17 and G18c) There was some trouble with the sear on the Glock 17 set. As Turok_T mentioned below, the tab that the trigger bar interacts with isn't cut properly. So you'll need to sand it down a bit for it to function properly. Other than that, I found that it mated perfectly with the Shooter's Design Hammer spring and valve knocker. The hammer spring it comes with seems to be prone to light strikes. Also, the stock hammer bearing doesn't work with this thing. It's too small. That's why it comes with its own hammer bearing that is a bit bigger than the stock. With the stock one installed, the hammer couldn't lock onto the sear hence the hammer was staying in the uncocked position. The Glock 18c version was somewhat equally troublesome for me. The fullauto sear's tab (the part that interacts with the slide) seemed to protrude quite proudly and was causing some friction. I've had to sand it down a bit and polish it to remove the unwanted friction. KM Stainless steel hammer w/ Bearing for Marui Glock 18c: This hammer set fits right in to your Glock 18c Hammer housing. It's made of steel which means it's pretty strong but it also means that it will wear out the BBU much quicker than the stock counter part. KM Stainless Steel Sear and Valve Knocker Set: Again, it's made of steel but because of this material, it will wear the contact point of the stock hammer much quicker than the stock sear. It is recommended that you purchase a hammer that is made of steel for longevity. As well, you may need to shorten the valve knocker a little bit as sometimes, it may protrude further than it needs to. UAC Glock 17/Glock 18c steel hammer Set: It's ok. I like the Glock 17 hammer but the new Glock 18c hammer is a bit troublesome marrying to the BBU interaction point. Other Internal Upgrades: Shooter’s Design Glock 18c Full-Auto Sear: For the most part you don’t need to worry about the sear until it wears thin. The Shooter’s Design sear is the only alternative. It’s steel so it will last you for a long time. Good for shooting Full auto. Guarder Trigger Bar: This is not a necessary upgrade. It is mainly used as a reinforced part for extended use with green gas. Note that this is only useable with the G17. Add-Ons: (+1 Aesthetics)  There are a myriad of weapon attachments you can add to your light. Some serve functional purpose and others serve nothing more than mere eye candy. Flashlights: (+1 Ergonomics, +1 Aesthetics, Grants the ability to light your darkest hour) The best light you can possibly get for your Glock is a good old M3 tactical light. When you talk about tactical Glocks, the M3 lights is easy to attach and easy to operate. Quote:
There are essentially three types of lasers that you can mount on your Glock: a rail mounted laser, a trigger mounted laser and the Silverback grip laser. Any under rail laser will fit on your Glock provided they’re of the same dimensions. The trigger-mounted lasers may need you to modify their mount, as the Glock trigger guard is a bit thicker than most pistols. The Silverback grip laser isn’t bad to use but their fitting isn’t consistent. Some fit well while others not so well. I have three of these and they all seem to be different in terms of their cut and snugness. Plus, zeroing these things isn’t as easy as they seem. Army Force G17 IPSC Kit: (+1 Aesthetics, -1 Functionality, Grants the ability to mount a MRDS and compensator) This kit includes a threaded barrel, thumb rest, scope mount, cocking handle, compensator and a mag well. This is kit is not great. The scope mount and its subsequent screws do not fit properly onto the G17. The scope prevents a smooth cycle because it touches a little bit with the moving slide. SO no…just…no. Suppressors: (+1 Aesthetics, -1 Cycle) You need a lightweight suppressor if you want a full cycling gun. I have an ACM HK marked metal with foam brick 155mm suppressor on mine. It's heavy and pulls the outer barrel down preventing a smooth cycle. Sometimes, it gets the slide stuck. If you want to effectively use a suppressor, get an extended inner barrel. Now, for non threaded outerbarrels, you can add an adapter. Pro arms sells these specifically for both KSC and TM Glocks in CCW and CW threads but you need an extended inner barrel to mount it. Mini Red Dot Scopes (MRDS): (+1 Accuracy) It is possible to mount a mini red dot on your Glock. There are scores of mini red dots available. Get one that you feel comfortable in terms of how it functions and weight. You’ll need a mount for it. Silverback makes ones for the G17 but won’t fit the other Glock models without heavy modifications. You need to sand the post down to fit the other two models. Face-strike Kits: (+1 Face-hitting Power) This fits as an under rail attachment. There are strike kits available from 5KU and Nineball. It just slides right in place. Freedom Art Accu’comp Set: (+1 Colorfulness) I was fortunate to have found one these on ebay. The fitting on Freedom Art compensator set is a case-by-case give or take. While the fit was immaculate on the G17, on the G18c it was tighter. This boggles my mind. The trigger pin for example was super tight to get on and through to the other side. Carbine Kits: (+1 Ergonomics, -1 Recoil, Grants to ability to wield a Glock as a SMG type weapon) There are few carbine kits you can purchase to turn your Glock into a SMG. AABB and EA just to name a few. Magazine: (+1 Ammo Capacity)  There is only one magazine that I have tested in for Tokyo Marui G17 and G18c. AABB makes a high capacity, long magazine. This is a horrible magazine. Though its price range may attract you, this magazine has a tendency to leak after a few hundred rounds. Which is...whatever. I bought three of these at once and even fitted with good valve kits, they still leak. Alternatively, you can buy the more expensive TM brand magazines. While the cost may be double that of AABB's, it is rightly justified by the the quality and longevity you are receiving. Quote:
Magazine wells help enhance the ergonomics of your grip on the Glock by providing a resting area for pinky side of your hand. Though you may not feel this with the full size Glocks, you will definitely feel it in the baby G26. The magazine well also improves your reload speed as it gives you a wider surface to 'feel' for insertion of the magazine into the magazine chamber. Though this may or may not specifically be important for skirmish type situations, the use of magazine wells definitely favors players playing in professional shooting stadiums like CAPS. Shooter's Design Magwell: The Shooter's Design magwell is one of the best fitting magwells on the market. It is very comfortable to have on your Glock and feels lighter than the latter products. Some of them have the lanyard plug at the bottom. SA Aluminum Magwell: This one is a typical magwell in comparison the Shooter's Design magwell. The fitting is is catered to the G17 magazine chamber as it tends to be harder to fit on the G18c. It's made out of aluminum and weighs a bit more than the SD well. 5KU Magwell: This one mimics Shooter's Design style magwell where it has a break in the rear of the gun and doesn't completely cover the magazine chamber. Again, this one is more catered to the contours of the G17 rather than the G18c. It doesn't sit flat on your gun because the mount screw hole doesn't line up properly with the G17's. T.S.C. 7075 MagWell: This one is weighty because of the material stronger material and fits very well into your Gun. Good Quality too. AIP Magwell: I found this to be the most comfortable out of the magwells on the market. It's not as high a grade as Shooter's Design fit as it doesn't fit snuggly around your gun and can wiggle just a little bit. But again it is comfortable because of the contours are ergonomically friendly. Shooter's Design Magbase: These replace the baseplate on your stock magazine. They are both available for the long magazine and the standard size magazine. It doesn't have any real function per se other than providing you with authentic trademarks on your magazine. I find these to be cumbersome to have on your magazine as it covers the fill valve. The plate locks into place at the BB follower's spring base. For guys who like to fill up on gas on the field, having this is not ideal because you have to slide the plate of to reveal the fill valve while simultaneously holing the locking mechanism in the unlock position. And let me tell me you, these things fit very tightly around your mag base. Your gloved hands won't be able to accommodate the push you need to slide the plate off. At least in my experience. Quote:
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 Lubrication: With your brand new parts kicking into high gear, you need to be aware of proper care for you to maximize their functionality. Proper use of lubrication goes a long way. This is especially true to the G18c where it contains a lot of moving parts from the full auto mechanism. Thus, it's it is important to know what to lubricate and what type of lubricant you should be using. I have a technical background in machining specifically dealing with automotive parts before becoming a journalist and for the life of me, I can't understand why airsoft retailers advise the use of silicone for metal on metal contact. Silicone oil is horrible for metals as some machinist will tell you. They are very light and are easily dispersed once you fire your first shot. Thus, the constant need for lubrication after each game. What you need is proper metal on metal lubrication. Superlube is the best you can find at relatively low price. Most hardware stores, except frigging Canadian Tire, carry Superlube. A tube of this stuff should last you for years. I've had mine for nearly 1 and half years and it's only half done. But that's not to say that silicone doesn't have its uses. Silicone oil should only be used for the plastic components on your Glock. Only use 100% silicone oil. Never any of that synthetic stuff as they contains ingredients that will eat away your plastic components. Also, if you have a 6.01 bore on your barrel, it is ideal for you to put a bit of silicone down the barrel to help the BBs along. Do also note not to spay your hop up rubber with silicone. It will absorb it and will warp. You don't want that. So what should you be lubricating? Here is a list and what to use: On the Slide 1). The chamber and ejecting port need a very minute amount of Superlube. Depending on which barrel and slide combination you have, they will grind and eat each other. Superlube grease should help the chamber slide smoothly beneath the ejection port. 2). The fire-selector mechanism on the G18c needs Superlube. Again very little. Put some beneath the sight screw post on part18c-22 and 18c-20. On the Frame assembly: 1). From time to time, the magazine chamber needs a bit of silicone to help the magazine glide along with ease 2). Every part of the hammer assembly needs to be treated with Superlube. This the most high stress point of the gun and adequate lubrication is a must to prevent wearing. Treat parts 48 to 61 with Superlube. Make it a goal to lube up the sear and the hammer. 3). The contact point between the trigger bar and the trigger needs to be treated with either/or silicone or Superlube. If you don't have the aluminum GunsModify trigger installed, use silicone. If you do, use Superlube. 4). The magazine release and the magazine release spring needs to be treated with silicone. 5). The slide guide rails need to treated with Superlube or silicone depending on the material of your slide. For ones made out of plastic, use silicone. So to summarize, use proper lubrication in all the right places and that Glock of yours will take care of you in the field by minimizing the chance of for it to fail. Also, do note that you have to let the newly installed parts marry with one another. You wont get a 100% smoothness in terms of ROF but lubrication will help facilitate a strong marriage between all the parts (see what i did there?). Quote:
You can use either duster gas or green gas/propane with any of the Tokyo Marui Glocks. Duster gas for the lighter plastic stock slide and Green Gas/propane for the heavier aftermarket slides. Stock Tokyo Marui Glocks are among the highest quality gas blowback pistols on the market internally. The internals are spec'ed for use with duster gas but can handle green gas/propane just fine. Green gas/propane usage and the subsequent failure of the slide is case by case scenario. Some owners have been using green gas/propane for years on their stock TM Glocks and haven't broke. Whereas some owners are not so fortunate. But nevertheless, you should probably make the necessary gas adjustment based on what you have put into your gun. The heavier you make the slide assembly the more power the Glock will require to move it. The frame is another story. Again, the front screw casing is very weak and can't stand up to the pressure of Green Gas/Propane. It just a matter of time before it does. Check once in while if that casing is cracked. If it is, you can still strengthen it by putting JB Weld around it to help it brace the impact. If it's shredded, then you may need to just JB Weld your chassis to your frame. Ammunition Now, it's important to know which kind of BBs you should be using. This is applicable with ANY gun you are using for any type of scenario. The airsoft world and its proliferation has spawned countless numbers of BB manufacturers. Some retail places here in Canada even have their own line of BBs. You can pick whatever you want. But don't EVER buy ones from stores that don't specialize in airsoft gear or supplies like Wal-Mart or Canadian Tire. These brands, no matter what anyone will tell you, are just horrible. They tend to scratch up or in some cases break and destroy your inner barrel. If not, they leave a flaky residue inside your bore that can hinder the bullets trajectory and power. Here are some BB manufacturers that should be noted for use your Glock: Excel These guys have been around for a while and still I use these primarily. I use these on all types of bores and found them to be one of the best on the market. The G26 loves these things. They are slick and perform on a tried and tested formula. Can't say anymore than that. BB Bastards: They have been regarded for a long time as one of the best BBs to use even with modern inclusions or 'new' inventions of bb ammunition. But with the inception BB Bastard ammunition, many airsofters, including myself, found a new favorite. And rightfully so. Bastard bullets are the choice for for any type of scenario with any type of bore for any type of player. I've been running with .20g of Bastards on a Raven PDI 6.03 97mm TB barrel and have yet to have a single jam. [B][I]KSC: These are also good quality BBs. Not as high, IMO, as Bastard or Excel but they work real well with the wider bore inner barrels. Guarder: I had these for years and never bothered to use them because they are very problematic. These BBs tend to jam on your gun because they are a bit oversized. The intention of this design is for purely for cost effectiveness. Guarder thought that If you can't buy a tight bore barrel, why not make the BBs slightly larger so that it can simulate the tight bore effect? It does work to a certain effect but again, these bb's tend to jam both on your magazine and your hop-up unit because of their size. So be careful. Tokyo Marui Brand BBs: These are highly recommended for use in conjunction with any tightbore barrels. I only shot a few hundred of these so i might be a little biased. They work real well with the 03 and 02 bores. They jam from time to time on 01s. These are just some of the higher quality BBs. Everyone has a choice for which BB's to use thus opening up a good open debate about which brand to use. Some may notice differences in performance others may not. So use these to your discretion. Cross Compatibility with Other Brands: KJW, WE and HK3 are just three of the brands that copies Tokyo Marui’s Glock. The theory is that you will be able to fit the clone brands’ internal components to a TM Glock. But in retrospect, why would you want to? Marui is the crème de la crème of airsoft pistols. I suppose if you really needed to, you could swap parts but I would suggest you upgrade the broken part or get a TM replacement. Though this is common knowledge by now, it's worth noting that KSC/KWA parts are not useable with Tokyo Marui internals. KSC/KWA's internal set up is much more complicated than Tokyo Marui's. Thus, their parts are proprietary meaning parts are specifically catered to their system. STARK ARMS GLOCK COMPATIBILITY: This system is not compatible with the Marui G17. It uses a Glock 18c BBU and Hammer assembly. Even on the Glock 18c, there are still numerous things that can't be used on the Marui System. These are: -Outer Barrel -Slide (has different dimensions) -Floating valve -Floating Valve Blocker -Front sight (although it can be modified to fit) -Safety Serial plate -Front screw -Every piece of the chassis needs to be there to complete the swap -Hammer housing -Full auto sear (sometimes) -Trigger to trigger bar fitment is a bit off Quote:
[/quote] So what should I upgrade? I almost don’t want to answer this question but I’ve been getting so much e-mails that I figure to just answer them here on a public forum. So you’ve got a stock Tokyo Marui Glock, do ya? What should you be looking after? Let me put it this way: don’t upgrade unless you feel a drop in performance of your pistol or if something breaks. I can’t tell you how many unnecessary things I find on these Glocks that I fix. Most of the time, they are broken because the parts that the owner bought has been installed wrong or it just doesn’t marry well with other parts of the gun. Thus, the gun “doesn’t cycle properly” or “the slide gets stuck” or “this thing is eating too much gas” !?. The GunsModify adjustable trigger, for example, can’t adjust the trigger pull because it doesn’t work with the trigger lever. Understand that these Tokyo Marui pistols can handle green gas with minimal need to upgrade. But if you’re persistent on getting some upgrades done, here are some things to consider. Durability: Basic configuration: -Slide/ Barrel Set: Metal Slide/barrel set (usually sold together) -Enhanced recoil spring guide -Guarder Enhanced frame (or install the full Guarder tune up kit) For durability, just run duster gas on that sucker and it will last you a lifetime. For use with green gas, look after your slide. If you want to run green gas with a plastic slide, install some shock buffers on your recoil spring to absorb some of the shock. If your slide breaks while running green gas, find a metal slide replacement with the adequately powered recoil spring. A 150% is ideal for a quick a snappy return. The Shooter’s Design spring is wonderful for this. Also, the loading nozzle tends to break with prolonged use with green has on the G17. Wait til it breaks and replace it. On the frame, the front screw casing will almost likely be the only thing to break or if not, the first thing. The screw casing is very weak and WILL crumble under the prolonged use of green gas. For some this may take a few hundred rounds and for others it may take thousands. But rest assured, this screw casing will break at some point or another. Especially on a Glock 18c where the repeated full auto setting will come in to play and shred the casing altogether. Install, some shock buffers at the very least if you're running on stronger springs. Power: Basic configuration: -Metal slide/barrel set -High Blowoff valve -Enhanced recoil spring and spring guide w/ enhanced hammer spring -Tighbore Inner Barrel -Good Airseals (piston head/bucking) -Modified floating valve For power, use green gas. Do all the durability upgrades. You’ll need to install a high flow blow off valve on your magazine(s) to give you that extra oomph. You may also want to look into procuring a tighter bore on your inner barrel with a good hop-up bucking to give you a slight increment on your FPS. Accuracy: Basic configuration: -Tighbore Inner Barrel -Good hop-up bucking -Properly tuned hop-up A good tightbore inner barrel will give the accuracy boost you need while giving you some added firepower. You’re bucking should also be looked after. I find that the stock bucking is good but the after market products greatly increased my accuracy with the G18c. Gas consumption: Basic Configration: -Stock floating valve -Enhanced piston head/lid -Enhanced hammer spring -Enhanced loading nozzle -Good hop up bucking -GOOD Tightbore Good gas consumption is based on your pistol’s airflow, mainly the seals. The piston and floating valve will improve your gas consumption by providing a better air seal inside the loading nozzle once your magazine discharges green gas/propane or duster gas and thus prevents gas from going where it shouldn’t. Rate of Fire (G18c): Basic Configuration: -High Output Blowoff valve -Enhanced floating valve -Enhanced piston head/lid -Enhanced hammer spring/recoil spring -Aluminum slide/barrel For a higher rate of fire, you want a very light slide assembly with good airflow in your gun. The lighter you make it, the higher ROF you’ll achieve and the better the airflow, the faster the blowback. If this what you are trying to achieve, do not go for the steel barrels. It will drop your ROF because of its weight. Same goes for the metal loading nozzles. You will also want to adequately lubricate your gun to reduce the friction. Quote:
 . Final Summation: (+1 Knowledge, -1000000000000 Dollars) I probably got some these facts wrong. The basic jist of this whole article is to advise you to just be mindful of the things you are buying for your Glock. While some reputable manufacturers may boast higher quality, their parts may hinder the performance of your gun due to improper fitting. And while I would love to answer the age-old question of “what should I upgrade”, I am afraid that without sufficient information of your personal preferences and the functionality/condition of your Glock, I cannot give a profound and meaningful answer. You can read up on: Smart and not so smart upgrades (repost, long). FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants Why do I need to upgrade (or not) - with explanations!:Upgrades & Modifications to help you get started. Though these FAQS are for different guns, the basic principle knowledge you gain from reading them is applicable and invaluable. If knowledge is power, then your power level will be ovvverrrrrr 9000!!!! after reading them. SO read read read read. If you have any questions, post them down below. Someone will be with you shortly.  This guy was my WoW character. His stats? 100% awesome
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"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men." Last edited by e-luder; April 18th, 2016 at 17:09.. Reason: ***UPDATED*** |
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May 13th, 2012, 11:21
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Very nice write-up. Love the RPG style attributes!!
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H&K G36c (KWA) / Glock 18c (TM) / Kimber LAPD SWAT Custom (TM) / Mossberg M500 (ACM) 
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May 13th, 2012, 14:12
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Excellent post, especially with the list of manufacturers and quality/cross-compatibility comments. Makes we want to buy a TM Glock now just to try this.
Vote for a sticky! 
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VFC SCAR-L - VFC SCAR SSR - KJW Hi-Capa 5.1 - CAW M79 The Three Sisters - WE G39 E/K/C Quote:
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May 13th, 2012, 15:01
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Now I'm wondering if the compensator and grip extension from the Glock 26 Advance is available for separate purchase....then that way, you can take it off or leave it on for a concealable pistol or just a full sized one.
Also...WoW! I didn't play, but my friend did, and he said that it made his grades drop like 20% and his daily life go down the drain.....not something I think I want to experience.
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VFC HK416C Crushed Orchid - VFC SR16 BCM ZTW TM G17 Loki Tactical Pink - TM G19 TTI Combat Master |
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May 13th, 2012, 15:02
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+1 for sticky. Very useful.
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"Mah check" Now you know 
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May 13th, 2012, 16:15
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Awesome writeup! As an owner of a TM G17, this is invaluable.
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Primary: ICS M16A3 RAS ICS CXP.08 Secondary: TM Glock 17 |
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May 13th, 2012, 21:01
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#7 | |
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Quote:
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"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men." |
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May 13th, 2012, 21:17
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#8 |
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will always be Mike Litoris in our hearts
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superb guide. Glad we have someone knowledgeable and willing to share the info with us.
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May 13th, 2012, 23:40
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#9 |
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One of the most entertaining guides I've read! I sure damn hope it gets stickied! Now Illusion needs to do one for the Hi-Capa!
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 It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it - Aristotle -Founder of Steel City Hamilton Infantry and Tactics -Certified level 43 Autosniper by Commander Amos |
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May 14th, 2012, 16:36
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#10 | |
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Quote:
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"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men." |
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May 14th, 2012, 16:46
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#11 |
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Likes it BOLD attention whore MAXIMUS!
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Outstanding work my friend.....!!!
Mods..as a fellow glock whore....this should be stickied !!! |
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May 14th, 2012, 17:01
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#12 |
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You missed one upgrade. This:
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VFC HK416C Crushed Orchid - VFC SR16 BCM ZTW TM G17 Loki Tactical Pink - TM G19 TTI Combat Master |
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May 14th, 2012, 17:13
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#13 | |
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I will reiterate that this is a great guide, even more so with the edits and additions.
Now, I'm just waiting for the following to occur... A battlefield on a hot summer day. The shots fired at close range. The "whizz" of BBs flying past the target, bouncing off trees. And the shout/curse, "DAMMIT, I did ALL the MODS! Where's my +27 to hit?!?" 
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VFC SCAR-L - VFC SCAR SSR - KJW Hi-Capa 5.1 - CAW M79 The Three Sisters - WE G39 E/K/C Quote:
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May 14th, 2012, 17:17
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#14 |
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You have to be level 61 to get that stat boost
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"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men." |
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May 15th, 2012, 02:47
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#15 | |
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Quote:
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