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May 7th, 2010, 22:05 | #1 |
Solder?
Best solder to use in an AEG?
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M4, L85, Mp5, Scar, Sig 552, M14 Last edited by Munaro; May 8th, 2010 at 14:38.. |
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May 7th, 2010, 22:06 | #2 | |
Quote:
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May 7th, 2010, 22:14 | #3 |
Lol, there's only one type of very good solder, the stuff that contains lead. The lead-free stuff works but isn't as good. Doesn't stick as well, even with flux, etc. That's how it's been done for many years and it works.
But still, soldering two wires together isn't very difficult. Even with lead-free solder, it will do the trick. |
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May 7th, 2010, 22:32 | #4 |
Le Roi des poissons d'avril
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I don't know how if it's called that in english, but I use tin wire with a mix of a brown resin like substance in it. It's mainly designed for electronic, but it work pretty well for wires. It melt at lower tempeture than lead and it's non toxic.
If you know how to solder, it won't come appart.
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Vérificateur d'âge: Terrebonne |
May 7th, 2010, 22:35 | #5 |
aka coachster
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fox, that resin is the flux GBear is talking about.
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May 7th, 2010, 22:51 | #6 |
Le Roi des poissons d'avril
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Ok. I'm not familiar with the english technical therms.
Tanx
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Vérificateur d'âge: Terrebonne |
May 7th, 2010, 23:17 | #7 |
silver solder only....especially with the hi capacity silver wiring.......you should only need to use a little flux....and using silver solder will keep the heat down which is good for connectors etc...
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Semper Primus: Always First |
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May 7th, 2010, 23:23 | #8 |
Well, as long as you solder quick and fast, the heat won't matter much. Quick, fast, strong, and clean joint with a good lead solder and some flux is the best you can get. Nothing will get damaged if you're doing it right.
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May 7th, 2010, 23:40 | #9 |
I was under the impression, the tin-load solder had the lowest melting point?
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May 7th, 2010, 23:47 | #10 |
Silver solder is the way to go with this..Tins ok for constant low intensity wiring but not good for rapid "on/off " involved with this situation...Albeit it's a better choice then lead or 50/50 mix..Lead is a definite no in my IMO, Lead melts at a way lower temps then lead or silver...lead will hold for an "in the field fix" but it'll melt down easily..Silver is a bit trickier to work with, I use the "flat spoon" head wit my solderin iron..Put the iron in the stand and melt solder into spoon, once there, dip both wires into flux then into melted silver...Once coated let wires cool..clean spoon and reheat..add a bit more flux to one wire and place both into "spoon" till they join...Others might do it it differently but this works for me, and anythin I've soldered has never failed..P.S use shrink wrap where ya can as well..hope this helps
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May 8th, 2010, 00:08 | #11 |
aka coachster
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no matter what type of solder you use, make sure you use a hot solder joint and not a cold joint. a cold joint is when you melt the solder and drip it onto the wires. these joints will break very easily. a hot joint requires you to heat the wires and allow them to melt and suck up the solder.
ie. you touch the solder to the wires not the iron. |
May 8th, 2010, 00:20 | #12 |
I use Benzomatic electrical silver bearing lead free solder for everything... available at Can Tire! yay!
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May 8th, 2010, 00:41 | #13 |
Well, I'm not talking about pure Lead. Solder that has a little bit of Lead definitely helps. And yes, make sure you have a very hot iron and no cold solder joints! Heat the wire up very quickly, melt the solder onto there, and cool it. Nothing should be damaged.
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May 8th, 2010, 11:49 | #14 |
Official ASC Bladesmith
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60/40 Rosin core solder.
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May 8th, 2010, 11:52 | #15 |
I'm guessing PoCo or Warcraft Games? I'm sure they'll be pretty good sports about defective items and such otherwise take it to DamageInc to take a look at it maybe.
Otherwise these days I use a lead-tin solder with the flux INSIDE (IIRC has one of the lower melting points). I actually have just the solder and a separate "cake" of rosin and that's an OLD relic (from around the time my mom became a landed immigrant in the 80's) I didn't know they still sell solder without flux inside. I'm not an expert on this stuff though, only taken one electronics course in high school and one digital design course in university.
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