FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[StrikeFreedom]

whats the solution to stripped grip screw holes, other than using bigger screws?

[Daiviet]

new frame? thats the only alternative i can think of

[ILLusion]

What Daiviet said. LOL. Unfortunately.

Always be careful of how much you torque screws for airsoft. Be conscious of what materials you are mating, the application, the bolt length, and also the coarseness of its threads.

[faithless]

I am having a stripped grip screw hole problem as well. The screws are badly bruised, and they sit loosely in the whole. While assembled, there are about 2mm gap between the mid frame and grip near the beaver tail area.

I don't see any thread at all for the grip hole on the mid frame.

I have purchased some ss #8-32 screw and they seem to fit in and solve the gap problem. The issue is that they are too long. I am going to cut them, and see if they solve the problem.

My question is:
1. What material is the stock TM 4.3 mid frame?
2. Did anyone try tap new thread on the grip hole, and use a bigger screw on them?

[pusangani]

1. pot metal
2. never tried but I've found I've had to gradually use bigger and bigger screws until I found one that fit tight, just make sure you don't over torque it and you will be fine, if the screws are too long you will not be able to get the mag into the grip.

[StrikeFreedom]

I've got a question regarding a tilt barrel. Is it possible to convert it to a non-tilt/fixed system by shaving off the lugs from the outer barrel and/or the slide? Once there is enough clearance, the slide wouldn't and won't have to pull back the slide anymore?

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by faithless

1. What material is the stock TM 4.3 mid frame?

Zinc-Aluminum die-cast metal. aka "Pot" metal, aka "Monkey" metal.

Originally Posted by faithless

2. Did anyone try tap new thread on the grip hole, and use a bigger screw on them?

Yes, I've seen it done successfully before, and can not see why anyone couldn't do it. Just MAKE SURE you use a proper tap set with coarse threading, and MAKE SURE you have an exact matching bolt to thread through. Chances are, you won't find one short enough off the shelf, but nothing should stop you from cutting/grinding it down to the proper length. Don't let it extend more than 0.5mm in to the magwell once tightened down.

Originally Posted by StrikeFreedom

I've got a question regarding a tilt barrel. Is it possible to convert it to a non-tilt/fixed system by shaving off the lugs from the outer barrel and/or the slide? Once there is enough clearance, the slide wouldn't and won't have to pull back the slide anymore?

It's possible, but what are the chances of you getting a perfectly round surface across the top of the chamber? I hope you have a really good eye and very precise hands.

You also have to add material to the bottom of the chamber to lock the hop up chamber in place.

[StrikeFreedom]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

It's possible, but what are the chances of you getting a perfectly round surface across the top of the chamber? I hope you have a really good eye and very precise hands.

You also have to add material to the bottom of the chamber to lock the hop up chamber in place.

It'll be much easier to round out the lugs from the slide instead. After 2-3mm is shaved off the chamber should clear? To hold the outer barrel in place, adding a piece in the frame (near the "v hook") should do it, since the hop up chamber is already held in place by the slide catch?

[RacingManiac]

Just installed the 9Ball plastic BBU, we'll see if it disappoints me like all my other NineBall stuff....the AS BBU is pissing me off though....lol

[Slono]

Originally Posted by RacingManiac

Just installed the 9Ball plastic BBU, we'll see if it disappoints me like all my other NineBall stuff....the AS BBU is pissing me off though....lol

Is the AS BBU not working with your setup?

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by StrikeFreedom

It'll be much easier to round out the lugs from the slide instead. After 2-3mm is shaved off the chamber should clear? To hold the outer barrel in place, adding a piece in the frame (near the "v hook") should do it, since the hop up chamber is already held in place by the slide catch?

Not only do you have to remove the lugs, but you'll have to also take down the entire underside surface of the top of the slide for as long as the stroke is.

You'll have a bit of work ahead of you...

[RacingManiac]

Originally Posted by Slono

Is the AS BBU not working with your setup?

The screw kept backing out, I even counter sunk the bolt more to get more thread engagement(the stock had 2 FINE thread in a aluminum part, dumb design). At this point I don't want to mess with it so I am trying out the Nine-Ball. In theory the wear and tear should be minimum on it anyway.

[Slono]

Originally Posted by RacingManiac

The screw kept backing out, I even counter sunk the bolt more to get more thread engagement(the stock had 2 FINE thread in a aluminum part, dumb design). At this point I don't want to mess with it so I am trying out the Nine-Ball. In theory the wear and tear should be minimum on it anyway.

You could try some thread locker. I find that mine do that too with stock BBUs and I have to secure it with the blue goop otherwise it gets really loose, really quick.

[RacingManiac]

I have, red loctite and it still backed out.

Poor design, but I can't expect random HK guys to have the best design practices...

[StrikeFreedom]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

Not only do you have to remove the lugs, but you'll have to also take down the entire underside surface of the top of the slide for as long as the stroke is.

You'll have a bit of work ahead of you...

I just did this "fixed barrel mod" successfully. As mentioned before I simply shaved off the lugs from the slide so that there is clearance with the chamber. Then I inserted a tube/plastic ring to the inner barrel (similar to detonics) so that the outer barrel stays fixed at the forward position. This can also be done with stock slide and stock barrel.