Trigger Master MOSFET Fire Control System Discussion Thread

[AngelusNex]

Originally Posted by DonP

Still on the workbench - that test unit is a new thing I'm trying. The basic concept seems to work, but turning it into something that can handle being in the world instead of in the lab is proving to be more difficult than I expected!

It won't replace the existing Trigger Master, but I think it might be good for some specific applications... if I can get it working well enough, that is.

Ah, too bad cause I really want one.

[Skladfin]

Originally Posted by Sepulcrum

Ah, too bad cause I really want one.

same here, lacking soldering skills

[DonP]

Originally Posted by Lorden

By the way for the soldering -- I don't have an electric solderer, so I bought this tiny butane solderer from Wal Mart -- I've soldered a bit before, but I'm wondering if anyone has had any success with that type of unit?

I would not recommend any kind of tool that uses an open flame, but there are some irons that are butane heated (metal soldering tip is headed inside by butane, not electricity) which would be OK. Open flame units (like mini blowtorches) don't give you enough control and are mostly good only if you want to burn what you're working on.

I would highly recommend that anyone doing an installation have some experience in soldering. Good solder joints are important because of the high currents being used - you simply need good connections and there's no way around that.

If someone isn't experienced in soldering and insists on learning as they go and trying an install anyway, then at the VERY LEAST keep these things in mind:

- Practice first! Use scraps to get a feel for things first.
- Do not use plumbing supplies under any circumstances. (Acid flux, acid-core solder)
- Use electronics solder (60/40 is common). Do not use silver solder since it's harder to work with, and the stuff silver is good for isn't needed here.
- Don't "paint" melted solder onto the wires then let it set. The solder should flow onto, into, and around the wires on its own if you're doing it right.

There are plenty of "how to solder" guides with nice pictures on the Internet if someone is interested, too.

[Skladfin]

So my gun's been having a problem with semi

it fires burst in semi, have changed cut off lever from different brands and it still doesnt help at all.

is there any way I can fix it with a MOSFET?

[AngelusNex]

Originally Posted by Skladfin

same here, lacking soldering skills

Oh I'm good with a soldering tool... I just want to be able to have 1 mosfet for each of my guns. and not permanent as I don't want to mod my gun and then realize I don't like it.

[DonP]

Originally Posted by Skladfin

So my gun's been having a problem with semi

it fires burst in semi, have changed cut off lever from different brands and it still doesnt help at all.

is there any way I can fix it with a MOSFET?

Without knowing what's wrong with the gun, it's impossible to say for certain. Until you can find out what is wrong there's no reason to think a MOSFET will change anything.

[TheToastmaster]

I'm not sure if this is a stupid question, but here's my situation and my question: I had a MosFet from when Kos-Mos was selling them on the boards in my AUG. Used it for half of last season and loved the improvements that the chip provided. This season I unpacked my gun, took it to scrims and as soon as I hooked up the battery the fet heated up and actually melted the solder connecting my wire running to my battery.
I've since tested the fet and it seems to be locked "on". It works, but only in the sense that current will run through it continually (also has no obvious burns, like it's burnt out or anything like that). Another local airsmith seemed to think the problem was that it had no heat-sync.

The temperature control function and other features in these ones will prevent that kind of thing happening, correct?
Also, since my gun is already wired up with a broken "dumb" fet, it should just be a matter of soldering the trigger master in its place, right?
Really stoked on 3-round burst and having a working fet in my gun again.

[DonP]

Originally Posted by TheToastmaster

The temperature control function and other features in these ones will prevent that kind of thing happening, correct?

As much as I want to give you a straight answer, you might be talking about a couple different things together here.

A "dumb" MOSFET has no temperature-sensor, that's true. The Trigger Master does and will refuse to fire if it detects too much heat.

It's impossible for me to tell what happened with your other MOSFET, but no temperature-sensor in the world will help you if the problem is actually that the part has fried/been damaged/is defective.

Example: if the CPU on a smart mosfet is alive enough to run, AND the FET is alive enough to take orders from the CPU, then it would shut down before you get any solder melting. However if the FET is defective/damaged/etc then it may very well not "listen" when the CPU tries to shut it down and you'll still have a situation where things get hot. It kind of sounds like the FET on your gun suffered that kind of damage. But I can't tell for sure.

Also, since my gun is already wired up with a broken "dumb" fet, it should just be a matter of soldering the trigger master in its place, right?
Really stoked on 3-round burst and having a working fet in my gun again.

Yep, all that work should be already done from the sounds of it.
Just double-check in this document here - the wiring should be the same: http://unconventional-airsoft.com/gf...umentation.pdf

[TheToastmaster]

Cool, thanks for the help. If I knew more about Mosfets I'm sure I'd be able to say more clearly what's wrong with the one I had wired up to my AUG. In all honesty I'm baffled; it worked marvelously, I put it away, I took it out, it fried itself when I hooked up the battery.
I was planning to just wire it up normally, the whole experience rather turned me off of putting more advanced wiring in my gun than the stock connectors and wires. Then I remembered seeing threads about the trigger master and hope was renewed.
I'll order one when I have some spare cash, methinks.

[DonP]

For anyone who is interested, I have recently been discussing how to implement a "dual trigger" with a gun modder in the USA.

For example, the MG34 where pressing the top part of the trigger fires in SEMI and pressing the bottom part of the trigger (which has a small sub-trigger on it) fires in FULL.

I drew up this awful diagram to show how this can be done on a Trigger Master.

Ugly Diagram

Short writeup

[wKnight]

I recently installed a trigger master in my M4 and it worked fine with the stock motor. My problem came when I installed a systema magnum motor. When I plug the battery in, the gun gives me 1 vibration saying everything is good to go. when i pull the trigger after the long vibration the gun goes dead and nothing happens. I tried a second systema motor to see if it was a motor issue but the same thing happened. I also performed a factory reset before the new motor was installed. Any help would be appreciated.

[808]

Did you accidentally wire the motor backwards?

It happened to me, is all. Worst part about it was it was a CA motor and the positive contact is very clearly labeled.

[wKnight]

nope, it works fine when the stock motor is installed and i didnt change anything while installing the systema.

[wKnight]

nm i got it sorted out. the systema motor isnt fitting right in the pistol grip so its being forced to hard into the gears.

[DonP]

[...] Systema Magnum [...]

Sadly that wouldn't be the first Systema Magnum problem I have heard of. I hate to say something like this but I'm glad I don't have one. On Airsoft Mechanics some fellows far brighter than myself have spent a lot of time dissecting the Magnums and no one's impressed with them for a variety of reasons.

But just to give some news regarding the Trigger Master, I have just released the Trigger Master Mark II!

Harder, better, faster, and stronger -- with more features and new firing modes. Here is a re-post of some info in the For Sale thread:

• Better burst timing adjustment so that bursts can be manually tweaked lower... making 2-round bursts possible (should one wish to emulate a real UMP for example.)
• Bursts complete even if trigger released early! (You do need to hold down the trigger for at least 1 shot. If you do, the rest of the burst will complete.) ;D
• Vibration feedback for configuration/programming mode. Each trigger pull has a vibration to go with it (so you can feel that your trigger pulls were "heard" and were registered.) I personally find this really helpful.
• Added a parameter to configuration mode: 6 vibrations is "Active Braking enable/disable". Pull trigger once=AB on. Pull trigger twice=AB off. Do nothing = no change. (Someone may wish to turn AB off/on for whatever reason, possibly to troubleshoot something - so I added it in.)
• Since 6 vibes is "AB enable/disable", FACTORY RESET has been moved to 7 vibes (it used to live at the 6-spot.)
• NEW Firing modes added to "Firing Mode" option in configuration:
  4 trigger pulls = Burst Only (no rollover to fullauto if trigger held. This is not NEW, but I found it easier to make it a selectable firing mode.)
  5 trigger pulls = Sniper/DM mode (semi-only with forced 1 second dead time between shots, simulated delay due to recoil and careful aim.) Mostly useful as an additional handicap for AEG Sniper/DM guns to allow higher FPS limits (some people don't think semi-only is much of a handicap.) This mode is available to semi-locked units.
• Programming changes so that SEMI-LOCKED units installed into fullauto-only guns (e.g. M249) should "just work" (This is not the case with the default code.) This allows our friends in places like New Zealand (where full-auto Airsoft guns are not legal) to use the M249 or any other full-auto only gun!
• In addition to the above, for SEMI-LOCKED units on fullauto-only guns (e.g. M249), the programming mode option for "Burst Time Increase/Decrease" becomes used to manually tweak the duration of single shots. (Basically, on a full-auto only gun SEMI-LOCKED units are firing 1-shot bursts.) Without semi-auto functionality in the mechbox, the unit cannot auto-detect and train itself for a gun's timing... The default timing values built in should work well enough, but the option is now there to fine-tune it should a person wish to do so.

The bad news is that due to higher parts costs the price has gone up. Kits are now 88$ CDN each.

It's unavoidable, but to make it up to you, you now get more for your money. In addition to the added features listed above:

• FREE Dean's plugs connector kit is now included with every unit. A 12$ value! (This alone makes the cost comparable to the old units)
• FREE motor connectors for AEG motors! I have finally sourced some of these, and I include two pairs FREE with every kit: one pair of straight connectors and one pair of angled so you can match ANY style you need for your gun. People really wanted these before, and now they are free!
• A full color reference sheet for all parts and wiring necessary is included. Better labeling is also done on the units. (Download it)
• The full documentation and installation guide is now included as a booklet with a quick-reference for advanced configuration options. (This was previously a download-only PDF not included in the kits.) Download it