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Old March 22nd, 2009, 17:53   #16
yuhaoyang
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Well kay, I just need assurence that will last about 2k rds before I get metal bushings =p
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Old March 23rd, 2009, 09:54   #17
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you've got metal bushings already, dont bother buying more.

I just did a custom build m16 on sunday out of tokyo marui m4 and other random parts. The metal bushings i got seemed to not fit in. I double checked and saw the plastic ones just slipped in no problem.

Well good news yuhaoyang! They do fit!

you just need to be a tad aggressive. What i did was put a hard surface behind the mechbox casing, (in this case the floor @.@) and tapped it with a hammer on the flat surface of the bushing. They will fit very snug, but it doesn't matter!

Try it out
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Old March 23rd, 2009, 12:41   #18
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Ooh good... compressed springs for the win =D. No hurry then I guess, since I just realized TM stock has nylons as well XD
Stock TM box nylon bushing are still their 10k rounds. Look like they are in decent shape as well. If you upgraded your spring metal bushing are a must.
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Old March 23rd, 2009, 15:29   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaxxin View Post
you've got metal bushings already, dont bother buying more.

I just did a custom build m16 on sunday out of tokyo marui m4 and other random parts. The metal bushings i got seemed to not fit in. I double checked and saw the plastic ones just slipped in no problem.

Well good news yuhaoyang! They do fit!

you just need to be a tad aggressive. What i did was put a hard surface behind the mechbox casing, (in this case the floor @.@) and tapped it with a hammer on the flat surface of the bushing. They will fit very snug, but it doesn't matter!

Try it out
I was agressive enough to severly damage one bushing (x shaped mark left on it)
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Old March 23rd, 2009, 15:40   #20
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HAHAHAHAHA...beautiful.

I tried....

Best of luck. Modify SS bushings are very nice. If you have a JG mechbox...there's a specific Modify set that fits the recesses for those.

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Old March 23rd, 2009, 16:39   #21
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Originally Posted by yuhaoyang View Post
I was agressive enough to severly damage one bushing (x shaped mark left on it)
I have no idea why you would even follow the advice to use the head of a screwdriver as a viable tapping device. You should have foreseen SOME type of damage happening, when you tap the relatively sharp edges of a hardened steel screwdriver head in to softer metal bushings. There are tons of better implements to use.
I wouldn't be surprised if you caused some smaller scale damage to the other bushings. Even small indents on them from the driver head could be enough to score the axles of your gears or the side that contacts the face of the bushing.

Lesson learned: consider the sources of "advice" you read on the internet.

Now that you've widened the holes in the gearbox for the Element bushings, you may find that any other bushing you install will end up being a bit loose. Hopefully not too loose, or you'll end up damaging your gears.

Lesson 2 learned: Buy cheap, buy twice.

Last edited by ILLusion; March 23rd, 2009 at 16:51..
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Old March 23rd, 2009, 22:07   #22
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Surely this entire section of the forum is for that purpose? XD oh well... Ordering better bushings now...
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Old March 24th, 2009, 14:10   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yuhaoyang View Post
I was agressive enough to severly damage one bushing (x shaped mark left on it)
dude, i never said use a screwdriver! the other guy did! nooooooo lol thats why i said use the head of a hammer to hit the flat side.

When i was doing my m16 i first grabbed a philips head screwdriver and put it in the bushing hole, then i brought a hammer up behind it, paused... and thought... bad idea...

instead of used the hammer to hit the bushing directly in.

damn
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Old March 24th, 2009, 14:16   #24
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A tool that everyone should have is a mini plastic / rubber mallet.

Those things are very useful when working with airsoft.
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Old March 24th, 2009, 14:18   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amos View Post
A tool that everyone should have is a mini plastic / rubber mallet.

Those things are very useful when working with airsoft.
Quoted for truth.

Very difficult to do any damage to parts (at least not by harming the surface in any way.. can still bend parts), and does the trick that a hammer would do.
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Old March 24th, 2009, 14:21   #26
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This is what I'm talking about
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Old March 24th, 2009, 14:37   #27
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Hard plastic/rubber combo hammer is incredibly useful. Keep in mind that with some of the monkey metal stuff in airsoft, a good solid strong strike is sometimes better than repeated smacking with a lighter or non-metal hammer.

One of the most useful things I've found is using either channel lock pliers with soft jaws (usually UHMW covers) and c-clamp vices that exert a squeezing/gradual force rather than sharp force from a strike.

Support the other side...or run the risks...
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Old March 24th, 2009, 16:26   #28
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Originally Posted by m102404 View Post
One of the most useful things I've found is using either channel lock pliers with soft jaws (usually UHMW covers)
Where did you find this? I've been looking for a pair for YEARS.
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Old March 24th, 2009, 16:39   #29
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Lee Valley has one...



Careful...just walking into their stores is a good way to loose several hundreds of dollars...

You can also go to Active Suplus and buy a piece of UHMW and just make your own plier faces.

A couple of layers of cardboard over regular channel locks work as well in a pinch (haha..get it?)

Tys
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Old March 24th, 2009, 17:27   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yuhaoyang View Post
So you mean 4k rounds before they melted or you still have them installed after 4k rounds?
They don't melt, the inner hole where the gear shaft sits gradually opens up more, allowing the gear to start to wobble and bind on the gear it mates with, causing an eventual failure.
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