April 14th, 2007, 14:30 | #16 |
oh really. i didnt think it could disolve enamals.
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April 14th, 2007, 15:04 | #17 |
The best thing I have found to strip paint off any plastic or metal surface is believe it or not-automotive brake fluid. Nail polish remover is bad shit, and thinners & paint stripper usually end up dammaging the plastic or making it soft and even if it doesn't dammage it,you still end up having to sand some areas.. You have to soak the item in a tray of brake fluid for a few hours but the results are great and all you need to do is use a soft toothbrush to remove the paint as it starts to flake off. I used this method on lots of model cars and the paint almost just falls off, you just need the toothbrush to clean out the grooves. It sometimes takes more than one dunk to get it all off but in the end you have the original surface texture with no sanding or scraping marks. I would definatley do a test first (I would do this with any kind of stripping job) by putting a few drops on an area thats not visible when it's assembled and let it sit there for a while and see if the plastic reacts, but I think brake fluid would be the safest bet on any plastic.
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April 14th, 2007, 16:23 | #18 |
does it smell like brake fluid after?
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April 14th, 2007, 16:52 | #19 |
It might, but brake fluid (that I have used) doesn't really have any odour. I would wash it afterwards with dishsoap and water. Being a stock that you put up to your face it would be a good idea to wash it no matter what you use to strip it.
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April 15th, 2007, 15:07 | #20 |
Administrator of Pants
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Not the results I was expecting.
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April 15th, 2007, 22:12 | #21 |
that doesnt sound good what happened?
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April 16th, 2007, 01:38 | #22 |
Administrator of Pants
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original colour is OD it was sprayed black. now its a botchy mixture of black OD and white residue from the brake fluid. I think I'll call it Urban camo, non digital.
I'll take another run at it later. Dude I should stick to selling Pants. lol |
April 16th, 2007, 02:29 | #23 |
Have you tried Xylene? That shit will remove any stubborn paint from anything. Saturate a cloth and lay it on what has to be removed for about 5-10 minutes then wipe. Repeat till paint is removed. You could also use a pail and submerge the part in it for afew minutes. This stuff is very volitile...if you use a rag, you have to soak it with water and place it in a container before throwing it out or it'll self combust!
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April 16th, 2007, 05:28 | #24 |
Captain Awesome
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man im so confused now! i have ironsight swearing by brake fluid, and then army swearing AT brake fluid, lol. im thinking ill either try safx degreaser or the brake fluid as they sound the most promising, but just wanna hear how the out come was for you, army. have you tried cleaning the surface? did the brake fluid actually alter the plastics color/finish? let me know so i know which option to go with.
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April 16th, 2007, 12:02 | #25 |
If you've got white residue on it, you probably didn't wash it off enough after the stripping. As I said before I've done this many times without a problem. Make sure you clean it right away, and clean it thoroughly.
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April 16th, 2007, 12:10 | #26 |
Administrator of Pants
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I did this on unday at the shop. Used a tooth brush to apply the brake fliud, coated it, let it stand for an hour then brushed it again and rinsed. then soap and hot water. I was hesitant to leave it saokiung in Brake fluid for hours. If you could give me the method you've had success with I'll retry. lol what could go wrong.
Cheers |
April 16th, 2007, 15:36 | #27 |
First thing is to put a bit of fluid on it somewhere and let it sit for a couple of hours,to test the plastic for chemical reaction. As long as the plastic doesn't get soft or distorted you should be ok.The way I did it was to submerge the object in the fluid. After it has sat in there for a couple of hours, start brushing the paint off while it is still submerged. If it is not coming off easily, stop and let it sit longer. Make sure you spoon out the chunks of paint that flake off so that they are not on the object when you take it out or they might stick to it. Wash it right away with soapy water and a clean rag, again if you can keep it under water for the cleaning part and then give it a good rinse under the tap.When you think you have rinsed it enough, rinse it again for the same amount of time again, and wipe it off while your rinsing.You might find the brake fluid will also dissolve whatever glue has been used to attach the two halfs ofd the stock together, so it will come apart. I did this with one of my AUGs' and it worked fine, but the person who had painted it has also sanded it, so I needed to repaint it anyway.If you do end up repainting it, you can get a nice grainy surface by using spray on bedliner from Crappy tire. It's a shiny black finnish but I just painted over it, and the paint sticks to it nicely. It also hides the seams in the stock and reduces noise from the gearbox(just a bit), and the stock doesn't creak at all anymore. I will post pics. of my AUG when It's finnished, but I still have alot of work to do on the rest of it and I don't know how well the finnish will show up on film. Let me know how it goes.
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April 16th, 2007, 15:54 | #28 |
Formally SwattMedic
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anyone have experience specficaly with removing krylon camo paint system paint from a TM M 14?
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"Pain is just a symptom of weakness leaving the body" -Herb Ferh |
April 17th, 2007, 01:41 | #29 |
I've used varsal to remove Krylon from my metal body due to I screwed up. It worked well. Let it sit for a while then proceed to brush.
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April 18th, 2007, 04:41 | #30 |
some stuff I use at work to remove paint from serial# tags on diffs and engines is Gasket Remover, comes in a spray can and goes on thick, leave it sit for a minute or two, it bubbles, you wipe it off and there goes all the paint as well. But I think it may be a little too harsh for plastic, I will try it out on an old springer w/t the orange tip on it, and see what happens. Oh I don't even know where you could get it though, I just get it from parts at work. huh.
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