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The Icing on the Cake...(Paint)

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Old September 14th, 2006, 03:44   #16
brently0725
 
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I love the looks of the guns when the folks who paint them get them all finished. The camoflauge always is a cool way to go. My only problem is I think I suck at painting (never really tried it on anything) and I am so obsessed with firing my AEG that I wouldn't be able to set it down long enough to let the paint dry properly LOL.



No I am not ADD or ADHD!!!!!
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Old September 14th, 2006, 19:22   #17
Bearbait 37
 
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Thanks Guys; I'll Check out the local shop to see whats available; I'm gonna keep it simple . It_Poncho yeah you cant go wrong for that price, just finished reinforcing key points with fiberglass before the rain started today so will probably start this Saturday weather pending. Droc Thanks for the tip on primers, I really didn't know there was a difference between Metal primers and Plastic Primers so thats a definate plus...
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Old September 14th, 2006, 20:08   #18
Glock 18
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Droc
I make my own.
But if your after the best end product, then yah, UAP NAPA sells some acceptable ones. I suggest the two part ones(main + activator) and run through a spray gun, but thats not something everyone can do(though not impossible. Some discount automotive places sell compessors damm cheap...Same with spray guns. For this kind of stuff, you dont need a $700 spray gun, heck, I picked up a spare gun for $40 from princess auto, they arnt the best, but they work...I have seen half-decent airbrushes for $20. Its not needed, but its one of these things that once yo get, you'll find all kinds of thing to paint with it).
You should be fine with automotive primer from canadian tire. But if your painting a metal body, make sure you use a metal primer, if your using a plastic body, use a plastic primer. I highly suggest Dupont primers and paints.

If its a high solid primer, a quick run with fine steel wool after it dries helps.

I clean before priming. Usually with pure methel hydrate...and watch your fingers. Human oil is a bitch and can mess with spraying, so handel your parts with gloves.

but thats just me. I spray professionally, so little things that matter to me, you'll prolly never notice. Many get excellent results with plain cheap spray paint.

As Droc said human oil will cause the paint to bubble seen this many time in the autobody shop will be read for paint and some guy touches the primer. Then it bubbles, then you hunt down the guy and linch him. but anyway if you do happed to touch the metal after its prepped i would suggest a good de-greaser don't rub it in too hard, then follow it up with a Tac-rag.
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Old September 14th, 2006, 20:50   #19
Dracheous
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lt_poncho
well; Testors or Tamiya model spray paints work well.

A coat of clear matte preserves the job well too.


If you go with the Testors line, stick to their oil MODEL MASTERS line. If you go with their base lines it will do more harm to your airbrush, or you need to spend time watering them down properly so they don't clog your brush to death. I do suggest the oils over the acrylics, because if you get more than three layers in one sport you start running into cracking problems with the Testors paint.

I use the Testors lines all the time when building hobby models, and really have no use for their acrylics anymore. Though anyone with a sense of smell that doesn't like oil I think is crazy!



Current project, just did the rusting and will do burn marks and such later. Lights going in this one. Anyway I know its not a gun, but there are 6 layers there with the oil. Acrylics need to be washed over and over to get the same affects.
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Old September 15th, 2006, 00:38   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brently0725
I am so obsessed with firing my AEG that I wouldn't be able to set it down long enough to let the paint dry properly LOL.

When I painted my gun, I basecoated, dried it overnight, and when I did the OD and Brown parts, I painted em and they dried to the touch in minutes. I actually painted my gun in between skirmishes at the field one day. Krylon dries ridiculously quick in my experience. Very recommendable.
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Old September 15th, 2006, 02:01   #21
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When I paint other peoples guns ( http://www.airsoftcanada.com/gallery...php?i=4155&c=4 ), I personally use a paint called Arma-coat. The guy is based out of edmonton,ab and its incredible paint. I guess you could say its along the lines of dura-coat but they dont ship to canada. Arma coat was designed to paint anything with a tight tolerance so it goes on thin but can be applied many times in layers. It comes with a hardner that you add to the mixture to make it tough but somewhat elasticy. Retails for about 18.99 a bottle at The Shooting Edge ( www.theshootingedge.com ) .
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Old September 15th, 2006, 02:56   #22
Dracheous
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Yeah but Minjinracing, if you don't let the Krylon cure for atleast a day then it will easily just scratch off.
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Old September 20th, 2006, 19:35   #23
Bearbait 37
 
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Hmmm.... Okay seems we have a bunch of ideas running through here; I finished reinforcing most of the Plastic parts ( inside ) with thin fiberglass layer and will start lightly coating the fiberglass with thin layer of rubber coating ( Asphalt guard) . keeps the creaks away; then will start prepping the outside for paint. Havent yet decided on a pattern or solid coating muzzlebreak to butt pad......Geez I need some Coffee...
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Old September 20th, 2006, 19:51   #24
Bearbait 37
 
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Was just looking at some of the paintjobs done stateside and thought wow that some real sick work..then ventured into some anime sites to get some ideas "Booyah" they got some good resources too.. Was just thinking; if they made the ALIEN pulse rifle kit for the Thompson , and the TRIGUN kit for the revolver; some of us could really think up some really cool ideas for our AEG's...
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