We 1911 slide completely locks up and is very hard to move.

[XOIIO]

The thing which is just really confusing me is that the slide isn't sticking on the hammer itself when it locks up during shooting, it locks when the slide is kicked back, so maybe with the force of the recoil, the hammer knocks the slide upward enough for something to bind, but it's binding up with a lot of force that's for sure, I don't have a way of holding my phone up to show how hard it is to move the slide forward again unfortunately.

The guide rails on this gun are thick enough that I don't think it's screwing up on those, I think it would be pretty obvious and you'd see some damage on the, but the paint wear on them looks about the same as it did yesterday before it started doing this so severely.

I kind of wish it had a clear slide so I could get a better look at the issue, too bad I don't have an xray machine.

I did notice there are those two little pins that seem to be part of the hammer mechanism, maybe one of them is part of the issue? They are in good shape too though, they don't look any different to my previous inspections of that area.

Side note, I took that video after I reassembled the gun, hence why there is so much oil on the slide from my hands.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

edit: Oh yeah and it still locks up. Sadly the problem didn't get magically fixed.

I looked into the disassembly process to get access to the sear spring, it looks relatively easy since it seems you can just slip the spring out once you remove that back grip section? Going further than that though I'm not sure, the mechanism beyond that point seems fairly complicated, and I don't think I'd be comfortable doing that, looking at guides right now but not feeling up to that especially since it seems you need to remove snap rings and stuff.

If the hammer assembly has something wrong beyond what could be fixed by adjusting the sear spring, I'd have to bite the bullet and send it back to Division XP for a warranty repair, not sure if they can provide return shipping labels or not, but I'd work something out anyhow. Maybe filing the hammer is the solution to this but that would definitely be something that voids warranty, and I don't know why it would randomly start being an issue after a bit unless the paint that hadn't worn was keeping things working properly, and now that it's a little loser without the paint it was able to mess up like this.

this is the guide I'm skimming, also one with a full teardown but yeah, seems this is as far as you would need to go for the sear adjustment. http://airsoftpacific.com/viewtopic.php?t=14294

[XOIIO]

It seems like maybe this is just an issue with the paint on the sliding surfaces on the rails, according to Division XP the tan paint WE uses is apparently thicker than their usual paint, they have apparently noticed a sticking issue with the desert warrior and this meu, or have heard about it, so I sent them a few more messages, asking if they think sanding down these areas would help, and also specifically asking about how far down the hammer can be pulled in the full cocked position.

I was able to fire a mag and a half then had another jam, and one after another 10 shots or so, so still happens too often for my liking.

Going to try searching for people sanding down paint from the rail parts that touch to see if maybe there is mention of the slide sticking so extremely hard in those threads as most of the threads I can find just searching for the slide sticking are about nozzle issues which I don't seem to be having.

[RainyEyes]

Originally Posted by XOIIO

Going to try searching for people sanding down paint from the rail parts that touch to see if maybe there is mention of the slide sticking so extremely hard in those threads as most of the threads I can find just searching for the slide sticking are about nozzle issues which I don't seem to be having.

Please don't. The rails are not the problem if you're able to rack the slide back and forward. At most the rails would cause friction it wouldn't have enough material to lock it up unless there were some massive defects. So long as the rails are true (straight) and there's no irregularities or thicknesses, chips, etc.

WHAT YOU ARE DOING in your video is very bad for your gun. Do not ride the slide, I believe is what it's called. You're causing more wear on the material by doing that versus letting it cycle quickly. The hammer is not supposed to go all the way down; that is normal function and it's working as intended.

The problem usually exists on the slide; very rarely is it on the hammer assembly.

Reassemble the blowback unit and with the nozzle only, move it forward and let it retract. Do this 20-30 times letting it snap back quickly.

If the nozzle gets snagged on the "immaculate shape" piston head, the nozzle should be replaced.

IF anything else; check the recoil rod is installed properly, no loose screws, etc etc.

[XOIIO]

Originally Posted by RainyEyes

Please don't. The rails are not the problem if you're able to rack the slide back and forward. At most the rails would cause friction it wouldn't have enough material to lock it up unless there were some massive defects. So long as the rails are true (straight) and there's no irregularities or thicknesses, chips, etc.

WHAT YOU ARE DOING in your video is very bad for your gun. Do not ride the slide, I believe is what it's called. You're causing more wear on the material by doing that versus letting it cycle quickly. The hammer is not supposed to go all the way down; that is normal function and it's working as intended.

The problem usually exists on the slide; very rarely is it on the hammer assembly.

Reassemble the blowback unit and with the nozzle only, move it forward and let it retract. Do this 20-30 times letting it snap back quickly.

If the nozzle gets snagged on the "immaculate shape" piston head, the nozzle should be replaced.

IF anything else; check the recoil rod is installed properly, no loose screws, etc etc.

I don't usually move this slide forward slowly like that, it was only because I had to do it one handed that I did that, just so that I could demonstrate how far the hammer moves down.

Division XP also recommend racking the slide manually for a while to let the parts wear into eachother naturally rather than trying to remove paint with sandpaper, so I'll do that once I get home.

I looked up polishing the slide surfaces and could really only find one post about sanding those areas, and I think it was for making hi-capa race guns or something, it was called the compendium of gas blowback upgrades or something like that, so it doesn't seem to be a solution people have tried for this issue like I thought it may be.

[XOIIO]

Oh yeah glad to hear that hammer function looks normal, I saw it mentioned many times but couldn't find any examples of how far down it is supposed to sit.

[XOIIO]

I just had the gun jam a few more times, it did it on the first couple shots, and then one later on, two of these times the nozzle was contacting the magazine, and when I relased the magazine, the nozzle got pulled back onto the piston. The other couple times it jammed and the nozzle was all the way back.

Moving the nozzle by hand I can still get it to snag a little bit halfway through, so maybe it is the nozzle causing this? Didn't see anyone with issues on the plastic nozzle assembly itself, but that seems like it might be it, or maybe it and the fact that the return spring has one loop undone.

I'll have to see what I can find for replacement parts.

It's surprising that this little plastic nozzle can cause the gun to jam so strongly, I wish it had a clear slide so I could take a slow motion video and see exactly how it gets the slide stuck so hard.

[XOIIO]

It's doing it more often again, so got the whole thing on video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4XeVFOrNCQ

[hattrick]

I'm going to sound like a dick for saying this. I apologize in advance.


Throw that WEtech Piece of shit in the trash.

Buy a Tokyo Marui.

Never have to worry about this kind of thing again.

That is the best fix - alex


ps : Yes it is the nozzle.

[XOIIO]

Originally Posted by hattrick

I'm going to sound like a dick for saying this. I apologize in advance.


Throw that WEtech Piece of shit in the trash.

Buy a Tokyo Marui.

Never have to worry about this kind of thing again.

That is the best fix - alex

I did want to get KJ works but I couldn't find a way to get the one I wanted, I sent out loads of emails to various sellers in Canada and had no luck whatsoever.

Besides, I'm looking for an actual solution for my $200 investment, not everyone is rich and can afford to just junk stuff the second it acts up. If I was rich I would have gotten a tokyo marui and metal kit from the start.

Supposedly WE stuff has gotten better in the more recent years, I guess I still managed to get a lemon that decided to act up.

[hattrick]

Originally Posted by XOIIO

I did want to get KJ works but I couldn't find a way to get the one I wanted, I sent out loads of emails to various sellers in Canada and had no luck whatsoever.

Besides, I'm looking for an actual solution for my $200 investment, not everyone is rich and can afford to just junk stuff the second it acts up. If I was rich I would have gotten a tokyo marui and metal kit from the start.

Supposedly WE stuff has gotten better in the more recent years, I guess I still managed to get a lemon that decided to act up.

You get what you pay for.

Get verified, find a junk donor gun. There is a good chance someone has a spare nozzle for sale in the classified section. I'm not going to look for you.



Keep learning the hard way - alex

[XOIIO]

I never asked you to look, I'm going about getting verified now, and it's not the damn nozzle, it's the outer barrel which is doing it.





I guess the suppressor that Division XP put on for the extended barrel is heavy enough that it tilts the outer barrel upwards, and it catches, I think on those 3 ring bits. If I push the outer barrel/suppressor inwards when it's jammed, the gun unjams, and without the suppressor I can fire off several magazines without the gun jamming.

I'm not sure what the purpose of those 3 rings are, probably to keep it aligned when the slide is forward waiting to be fired. I wonder if I can gently file the edges of these so that they slip, or maybe just removing the paint would be enough, I'm not sure how big of a role these play.

This explains why it's so hard to move the slide forward too, it is metal on metal, it's the damn outer barrel and slide.

[XOIIO]

Hmm, are there tighter tolerance barrel bushings? (I think that's the name for the part in the end of the gun that hold the barrel in), that would also work, there's a fair bit of play in this one.

I should have troubleshooted this like a buggy game or computer, always roll things back to stock and then see what screws up as you add things back on/

[XOIIO]

Are the gaps in the outer barrel that necessary? I could also try filling them with jb weld and filing/sanding that so it's totally smooth, then it wouldn't be able to catch. They must be there for a reason though, unless it's just something that was brought over from the real steel one.

[Drakker]

A few things to check, first, your nozzle return spring looks damaged, it should not have a coil dangling at the end. It should fit perfectly in its slot on the blowback chamber.

Second, on one of the pic (linked below this paragraph), it looks like the nozzle is maybe catching on the internals. It's hard to see, but if it does catch, then is means your blowback chamber is misaligned and is pointing downwards, which causes exactly the problem you are having. Make sure you screw the screw behind the chamber (where the hammer hits) first, then make sure that the chamber is not moving when you screw the top screw. If your nozzle chamber spring was misaligned and was partly crushed between the slide and the chamber it can cause this problem. That would explain the damaged nozzle spring.



[Edit] Wow, opened that tab a few hours ago, now just replied and there's a bunch of replies... looks like you already found the problem.

[XOIIO]

Originally Posted by Drakker

A few things to check, first, your nozzle return spring looks damaged, it should not have a coil dangling at the end. It should fit perfectly in its slot on the blowback chamber.

Second, on one of the pic (linked below this paragraph), it looks like the nozzle is maybe catching on the internals. It's hard to see, but if it does catch, then is means your blowback chamber is misaligned and is pointing downwards, which causes exactly the problem you are having. Make sure you screw the screw behind the chamber (where the hammer hits) first, then make sure that the chamber is not moving when you screw the top screw. If your nozzle chamber spring was misaligned and was partly crushed between the slide and the chamber it can cause this problem. That would explain the damaged nozzle spring.



[Edit] Wow, opened that tab a few hours ago, now just replied and there's a bunch of replies... looks like you already found the problem.

Yeah I've basically been going nuts at this, I tend to go a bit overboard on things like this lol.

I'm now trying to find information on why these 3 rings are there, how important they are and if making the whole thing smooth with jb weld would cause issues, or if filing the edges so that they are smooth would fix it.

I think it could also be shell ejection cover, or whatever the correct term for that is, that could be binding though I'm not entirely sure, it might be worth going at it with some fine sandpaper to remove the paint, I feel like it's catching further in though.