WE G18C loading nozzle

[Afflicted]

I'm going to attempt fitting a modified tm nozzle courtesy of Mr. Baker and will post results (with pics if successful), stay tuned!

[Shrapnel[Op-For]]

http://www.rsov.com/product.php?lang...380&cateId=146

It says "enhanced" but I don't see what is different about it. Will this part also come with a return spring?

At this point I see no point in replacing the nozzle with another stock WE nozzle, it solves no problem and will eventually break again.

[Thenooblord]

well, itll work till it breaks again, isntead of being broken? Kinda like buying KWA pistol hopups...

[Afflicted]

Originally Posted by Shrapnel[Op-For]

http://www.rsov.com/product.php?lang...380&cateId=146

It says "enhanced" but I don't see what is different about it. Will this part also come with a return spring?

At this point I see no point in replacing the nozzle with another stock WE nozzle, it solves no problem and will eventually break again.

The spring seat or whatever you want to call it does look a bit beefier compared to mine.. An aluminum one would be really nice though doesn't look like the spring comes with..

[RaisinBran]

Originally Posted by Shrapnel[Op-For]

http://www.rsov.com/product.php?lang...380&cateId=146

It says "enhanced" but I don't see what is different about it. Will this part also come with a return spring?

At this point I see no point in replacing the nozzle with another stock WE nozzle, it solves no problem and will eventually break again.

Man I must be blind, i swear I looked through RSOV...

[e-luder]

you can buy as many nozzles as you want. They will keep breakin unless you modify the spring plunger beneath the extractor plate. You need to shorten it on the thinner end, not the thicker end.

This plunger is not present on the G17. That's why the G17 muzzle lasts longer than the G18c's.

I gave you guys the reason ehy this part breaks already in two threads. So based on the cause, you can figure out your own way of modding things to make it function right. Tje solution is what works best for me.

[Afflicted]

Update..

I tried a nozzle from a TM glock and its significantly different than the WE.. Specifically, I tried one from a glock 18.. From about the 11 o'clock to 1 o clock positions, the TM one was flat whereas the WE one is perfectly round.

Next up, I tried a KJW which is almost identical with the exception of a small nub if you will on the opposite site of the return spring stop. This could easily be filed or ground down.. However.. There is a plunger type dealy with a spring that goes inside the WE nozzle that doesn't fit inside the KJW.. Also, the KJW nozzle seemed to be about 2 mm shorter than the WE which probably wouldn't make too much of a difference. I was thinking of drilling a little out of the KJW To allow for the bigger plunger thing but decided against it..

Back to square one..

I'm going to modify the stock one like eluder mentioned.. Anyone still have the manual with the part number for the nozzle? And return spring if possible..

This gun is starting to make me frustrate..:rocket:

[jordan7831]

Originally Posted by e-luder

you can buy as many nozzles as you want. They will keep breakin unless you modify the spring plunger beneath the extractor plate. You need to shorten it on the thinner end, not the thicker end.

This plunger is not present on the G17. That's why the G17 muzzle lasts longer than the G18c's.

I gave you guys the reason ehy this part breaks already in two threads. So based on the cause, you can figure out your own way of modding things to make it function right. Tje solution is what works best for me.

Are you talking about the plunger in the slide that the nozzle return spring rids on.

[Shrapnel[Op-For]]

Originally Posted by jordan7831

Are you talking about the plunger in the slide that the nozzle return spring rids on.

I would also appreciate some clarification. I don't know what the extractor plate is or what plunger you are talking about.

Thanks

[Afflicted]

I THINK that's what he means.. Inside the nozzle is a spring, plunger and a piece of some sort to keep it all inside. The plate fastens with a really tiny screw on the side of the nozzle.

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by jordan7831

Are you talking about the plunger in the slide that the nozzle return spring rids on.

Yes.

Its the piece that sits behind the extractor. The piece that you put into the spring before you put the spring back inside. You need to mod the part where the pring attaches to. That end. sand it shorter.

It looks like a detent pin, Jordan. Like the ones found on the hi capa/1911 that locks the thumb saftey to prevent accidental activation

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by Shrapnel[Op-For]

I would also appreciate some clarification. I don't know what the extractor plate is or what plunger you are talking about.

Thanks

On a stock slide the extractor is molded in. On A PGC set, the extractor is a seperate piece.

The extractor is that little notch beside the ejection port.

[Shrapnel[Op-For]]

Thanks e-luder for all your help.

Here are pictures of whats going on just because I think this thread is fairly important. The market is flooded with these new guns and I couldn't find any help online with the exception of a few youtube videos. WE doesn't seem to care and hasn't released any information.

Here is the loading nozzle everyone seems to have issues with. Breaks fairly easily.




E-luder, I'm not 100% sure on what part you're talking about so I took some photos. If you (or anyone) would mind labeling or letting me know what these parts are all called it would greatly help me communicate any issues more clearly. I understand the disassembly/reassembly but don't know the correct terms for the parts.








Is this the spring and plunger you are referring to?

[e-luder]

Yes. the last picture is what i am refering to.

The black thing may be too long. So when the slide recoils, the full brunt is absorbed by the nub (the part that breaks) and the plunger (the black piece). Ideally you want to cut it a bit so that the slide wont slam those two together.

The spring needs proper amount of distance to coil before it hits that nub so the force can be dampened.

It's not WE's fault but also some Marui systems have that piece break fairly easily. I assume WE's mould is a bit off spec. Which would explain why theseproblems are so common in WE Glocks... The spring itself is a bit weak so it only exarterbates the priblem furter

[e-luder]

That one hell of a bent spring you have there. lol. I would suggest you straighten it out or replace it completely. That spring is the only thing that keeps the nub protected.