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March 2nd, 2010, 00:59 | #271 |
Can't fix my own guns. Willing to fix yours.
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when you cock the hammer does that striker retract flush with the magwell walls or does it only move back about half way?
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March 2nd, 2010, 01:00 | #272 |
retracts flush......
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Semper Primus: Always First |
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March 2nd, 2010, 01:02 | #273 |
Can't fix my own guns. Willing to fix yours.
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and when you fire it, the bolt cycles? sorry if you already said that, I hvent read all the way through
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March 2nd, 2010, 01:05 | #274 |
no....bolt is not cycling......
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Semper Primus: Always First |
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March 2nd, 2010, 01:11 | #275 |
A-56 aka Mr.Hitman
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So my solution to long lasting hingeplate for SCAR is a stiffer recoil spring and a bomber light weight bolt.
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March 2nd, 2010, 01:49 | #276 |
With that set-up you will encounter the bolt not locking back after the last round is fired...it may save the hinge plate though!
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Kevorkian I SUPPORT THE USE OF SILICA BB BASTARDS! |
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March 2nd, 2010, 03:47 | #277 |
Thicker?
Hi fellas.
Up late pondering on how to improve this system's valve / nozzle assembly. I look at the stock nozzle, and all the aftermarket nozzles (Part-44) and wonder, why isn't the wall-thickness thicker, at where they make the nozzle ports. Rather than purchase an aftermarket adjustable unit, make my own adjustable floating valve by tapping a 3mm hole for a set-screw, and pay a machinist to make a thicker nozzle (see rendering: red instead of green diameter). Would that be the better way to go? On a simpler fix note, I"m also thinking about just trying a piece of silicone R/C full-tubing, to replace the hard plastick spacer (Part-40). This way, if there is a BB jam-up, or slight miss-alignment, the silicone spacer will absorb the impact, and take that load away from the port section on the nozzle. What's your thoughts? Last edited by Papabois; March 2nd, 2010 at 04:31.. Reason: learned more stuff |
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March 2nd, 2010, 08:04 | #278 |
Tys
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Don't know why a thicker bodied nozzle wouldn't work.
I use a #4-40 tap and a common screw to make my own adjustable valves. Just grind the head flat when it's ready. I used "washers" made from AEG cylinder head black rubber bumper material...two thicknesses were just right. I used a little pipe I had laying around and sharpened the rim of one end...then used it as a cutter to punch out disks. Mines not pretty, but it's got 100's of rounds through it. The material has to be stiff enough to press the nozzle tight in the chamber. Best of luck, Tys |
March 2nd, 2010, 12:10 | #279 |
I'm also looking @ the guide rod assembly. It's pretty sloppy in my opinion.
It's constructed very much like an R/C car's shock. That industry has aftermarket shockshafts, made from bad-ass materials, Hard chromoly, titanium, spring steel, nitride coated, etc. Finding one at an appropriate length to Part-39, and using a teflon shock piston (turned down to fit perfect into Part-38), should make a very non-wiggling assembly (cause the back of Part-39 is now supporting with the front support). The highly polished surface of the shock shaft, should make operation much more slick as well. |
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March 2nd, 2010, 12:24 | #280 |
Tys
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I don't think it matters how much play it has when it's expanding...as long as it's not leaking too much between the rod and the piston head.
When it's collapsed...it's pretty ridgid, and supported by the cylinder. When it's expanding to push the bolt back, it doesn't matter how stiff it is. Some slop is probably a good thing actually. Neat idea though...go for it! Tys |
March 2nd, 2010, 13:19 | #281 |
I think you're right about the little bit of movement. Help it self-align.
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March 3rd, 2010, 05:24 | #282 |
So my mag for my WE Scar started leaking...like really bad leak...hissing loudly as soon as I filled it with gas. I've read somewhere about the blue gasket method. There were pictures in that tutorial, but it was for a GBB pistol mag. Would a mag for the WE Scar have similar disassembly? Are there any other methods for fixing leaks here? I'd kinda like to avoid having to buy the blue gasket thing if I don't have to. Thanks in advance!
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March 3rd, 2010, 05:55 | #283 |
Also, one other question. Aren't WE M4s and SCARs pre-upgraded out of the box to take both propane and CO2 mags? What's this CO2 conversion kits for WE M4/SCAR I see on some sites?
Also just to confirm, WE M4 magazines are compatible with WE SCAR right? Airsoftbuddy has the M4 magazines on sale for 31.50 USD right now...I think I'll get one for my Scar. |
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March 3rd, 2010, 08:42 | #284 | ||
Tys
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Quote:
The upgrade kit you saw was out to convert the slim bottle type of M4 nozzle to the Scar type that has the ring around it. You needed a new chamber that fit that nozzle profile when you switched between nozzles. The WE M4, SCAR, PDW and 416 all take the same mags. Quote:
You can try to soak the rubber in a baggie of silicone oil overnight....that fixed one of mine. I've used silicone grease (the same stuff you use for greasing an AEG cylinder) I coated the rubber and it sealed up nicely. I've used 100% pure silicone window caulking....that worked. I've got two mags that someone (looks like hitman's mess ) used blue gasket sealer...one worked and the other didn't. I redid that one with silicone grease and it worked. Oddly....the ones with caulking/gasket sealer seem "weaker" than the others. Not sure why...it's not like it's filled with sealer or anything. GBBR mags are just like GBB mags....they're just bigger. |
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March 3rd, 2010, 17:38 | #285 |
I am trying to take out the inner magazine out of the shell now. Boy is it hard to pull out...
When I test it later...it's not necessary to put it back into the outer shell is it? I don't wanna cram it back into the shell again to find it still leaks and have to try and get that thing out of the shell again. This thing is crammed in there pretty tight... |
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