October 27th, 2013, 22:23 | #181 |
Mr. Silencer
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We'll be posting up an updated VIDEO review next weekend covering off the changes to the mechboxes since the original post.
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October 28th, 2013, 10:12 | #182 |
formerly FrankieCees, Remylebeau
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I lack discipline in shimming a Lonex V3 box with SHS gears.
Do a tutorial on shimming Looking forward to this Lonex video - really digging your reviews. |
October 28th, 2013, 12:28 | #183 |
Best (most clear) tutorial I've ever seen on this subject:
http://airsofttutorials.com/tutorials/shimming.html A little long, but I've found that following this method (individual shimming) saves a lot of headaches in the end. |
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October 28th, 2013, 13:20 | #184 |
Mr. Silencer
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I can't exactly say that's the most efficient method to shim bevel-to-pinion, nor can I say that cutting grips and drilling shells is necessary.
There are so many tutorials on the subject on YouTube and it's going to differ depending on who you ask and why their method is the best (see previous paragraph LOL!!!), so that's why I have not done a shimming video. Last edited by Stealth; October 28th, 2013 at 14:05.. |
October 28th, 2013, 14:01 | #185 |
It is far from efficient, yes.
But for a beginner that asks for a tutorial, I find that this method is nearly fool proof. |
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October 28th, 2013, 14:59 | #186 |
Tys
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There was a really nice write up with great pics that was floating around years ago and it really conveyed the ideas of what you're trying to accomplish with shimming. Some guys will remember the SystemA instructions that said to place this thickness here and that thickness there...but those in the know know that that's not good enough.
With the variations that will/might exist with every build it's really more essential to understand the concepts and then to apply what's needed to sort it out. And the objectives are deceptively easy: 1. Maximize tooth contact 2. Minimize latteral movement 3. Avoid excessive friction from parts contacting each other The essence of the concepts to achieve those objectives are likewise deceptively simple: 1. Use shims to space the gears from the mechbox shell and each other 2. Use shims to align the gears so that the piston rack is as fully engaged as possible That's pretty much it....until you get into all the fine points such as how bushings/bearings are aligned, what points of the shell are likely to be too close to the gears, how other components in the mechbox may interact with the setup, tuning out the noise, tuning in a bit of drag, etc... Then there's all the other nice parts of a mechbox that actually sends the BB on its way. IMO, the best way to learn how to work up a mechbox is to read up a bit, try your hand at it and watch someone who knows how to do it...or better yet have them coach you through it. |
October 31st, 2013, 11:45 | #187 |
formerly FrankieCees, Remylebeau
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Completed - was my very first ver.3 project but couldn't be happier with Lonex and the ease of everything staying in place - but holy shit is my shim job near trash with this SHS gearset..im assuming shimming should never take more than 2 hours..psh...expect this on your bench soon enough Stealth
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November 1st, 2013, 12:49 | #188 | |
Quote:
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November 2nd, 2013, 11:42 | #189 |
Mr. Silencer
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No.
That method is severely flawed because: 1) You have to drill your mechbox 2) You have to modify an otherwise-good grip which means you now have to use 2 grips; 3) No 2 grips are exactly alike ( even if you use the same make/model of grip) and just because you have great alignment with the "modified" grip, once you drop the "actual" grip in, the alignment could be off, which defeats the entire purpose of this exercise. You may as well have used any random grip. The bevel/pinion mesh can be verified/adjusted by: 1) Removing grip screws (the 2 that interface with the mechbox) 2) Installing the actual motor you will be using 3) Installing base plate and securing both screws 4) Placing the grip against half of the mechbox with the bevel gear in place 5) Adjust motor height accordingly Once the motor height has been established, then you can begin the bevel height shimming process. Last edited by Stealth; November 2nd, 2013 at 11:44.. |
November 2nd, 2013, 12:25 | #190 | |
aka coachster
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Quote:
Sent from my universe to yours |
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November 2nd, 2013, 12:35 | #191 |
Ohh, I never said I did the first optional part. Thanks Stealth for clarifying.
Actually, doing each gear one by one is longer, too. But it avoids creating bindings with other gears if you are a beginner, and thus avoid getting the wrong shimming. |
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November 19th, 2013, 22:18 | #192 |
Privateer Airsoft
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Has anyone put one of these in an A&K Masada? Any issues?
__________________
I change primaries like other people change socks. |
December 1st, 2013, 22:42 | #193 |
Mr. Silencer
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I've uploaded a video update/amendment to the original review.
http://youtu.be/tpJet7bhBjc Jeff - sorry mang. Haven't worked on an A&K Masada in almost a year... |
December 1st, 2013, 23:52 | #194 |
One change not mentioned in the video is removal of the bolt-catch items from the shell.
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December 2nd, 2013, 10:47 | #195 |
Mr. Silencer
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Looking at my circa 2011 Lonex box (with window cut-out and unreinforced trigger post) there are ... some holes for the fake bolt catch, but no actual threaded screw...
I've amended the original post to reflect this. Please correct me if I'm wrong and you're possession of a very early Lonex shell that has full provisions for the VFC-style bolt-catch. |
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