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February 25th, 2008, 13:23 | #1 |
Silencer is effecting full-automatic on TM G36C
Hey,
I recently aqquired a TM G36C. Almost everything has been upgraded: piston head Deepfire aluminum ball bearing lightweight piston systema spring guide ball bearing systema airseal nozzle systema 6mm bushings TM gear set Pro winn hop up systema hop up rubber systema tappet plate systema barrel M110 spring I use a 9.6 volt 1700mAh Battery. The gun has afairly high Rof. My problem is that when I put my silencer on and fire in automatic, lets say I hold the trigger and cycle the piston 10 times only about 5 rounds will be projected. These 5/10 bbs projected have a terrible flight path and about 1/3 the range as a regular shot. This problem only occurs in automatic with the silencer on. It cycles every round and fires straight in semi with the silencer attatched. When the silencer comes off the problem disapears. Now, when the battery is low it will fire fine in automatic through the silencer hmm... The problem is obviously caused by the high rof which is caused by the battery. I figure if I uprgraided the spring it would help but then I couldn't use it indoors for CQB. As of now it shoots 350fps on the nose. I could always use a velocity reducer however then I wouldn't use the silencer. The silencer is 206mm long and I have inlcuded a picture of it below. What causes this problem? How can I fix the problem so I can fire in automatic with the silencer on? Thanks
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Last edited by specter_M4; February 25th, 2008 at 13:26.. |
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February 25th, 2008, 13:27 | #2 |
Prancercise Guru
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Sounds like backpressure building up, you need to create some sort of bypass in the accessory , discreet holes in the body or a bafflectomy.
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February 25th, 2008, 13:34 | #3 |
Captain Awesome
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i would just change the cylinder in the mech box rather than modding the silencer, but even still, that SHOULDNT be neccissary when puting a can on a 36. you say this only happens in full auto, not present in semi? but when the battery dies down the problem ceases? i would also look at the piston head oring or nozzle assy.
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February 25th, 2008, 13:38 | #4 |
have you tried to chrono the gun with the silencer on and silencer off? Perhaps it's a simple as foam in the flight path within the silencer. There's no reason a silencer would make your mechbox foul up.
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February 25th, 2008, 13:48 | #5 |
Yes when the rate of fire slows down the problem ceases. I would rather just replace the cylinder. If the silencer is acting as an extended barrel I can see why changing the cylinder will help. I wouldn't drill any holes in the silencer althouhg that could work.
It's not the nozzle assembly because it works fine on full out with out the silencer. The oring on the cylinder head should be fine but I will check that when I open her up. I can't see this being a part of the problem though. I think you're right about the cylinder. I will test my luck with a higher volume cylinder.
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February 25th, 2008, 14:05 | #6 |
I second the notion that it may be the supressor foam in the path of the BB.
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February 25th, 2008, 15:00 | #7 |
Take a pen or something like it, stick it in the silencer and "stirr" it around... This should re-seat the foam and clear the path for the BB...
Also.. Look through the silencer at a light... My bet is you've got foam in the way. |
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February 25th, 2008, 15:03 | #8 |
At a high rate of fire, leftover air spilling out of the barrel won't have time to clear the silencer between shots and will create all sorts of weird wind flow in the silencer that can really mess with your bbs.
It can slow them down, drive them to one side, etc. I had similar problems with my mp5. Extend your inner barrel, use slower battery or drill small holes in your silencer an inch or so past the inner barrel tip. You could change your cylinder but then you probably won't have enough air to fully push the bb. Assuming it's not the foam. Good luck
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(Former)Grand Poobah of T.W.A.T. |
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February 25th, 2008, 15:15 | #9 | |
Prancercise Guru
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Quote:
In Semi there is enough time to dissipate the air. You could also try pulling all the baffles if that's possible and then slowly adding them back one by one till your problem comes back. Then you can decide if you need a bypass like a bleed hole or so on. |
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