Systema FTK-12 for PSG-1 modification

[N3XO]

Macguyver, I'm doing FTK-12 kit for my PSG-1.

But I still understandt how to install the systema relay switch to my PSG. The prob is my FTK-12 are not working after I install everything with Sanyo
10.8 V - 1100 mah battery. It seems the power doesnt have enough torque to press the 300% spring from FTK-12.

But if I'm using PSG-1 standard spring, piston, cylinder, etc, it cycles like normal....

So I'm confuse, whats really going on here. The only component from FTK-12 that I havent install is only the systema relay switch. Is that the caused that the FTK-12 are not working ?

May be you have some explanation about this.
Thanks a lot....

Rgdrs,
Danny

[Greylocks]

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=14503

[mcguyver]

At this point, whether you install the Systema dry contacts or not will make no difference to the running of this gun. A 10.8v 1100mah battery simply cannot provide enough current to start and run your motor while under load.

To run a 300% spring in any AEG, you should be using at least a 2100mah battery, but since the PSG-1 is semi-auto only, there will be alot of large pulses of current due to the inrush demands of the motor. This is different than with a full-auto gun, as there will be inrush on start up followed by a smooth, yet smaller run current. In this manner, you can get 1000 rounds or more in full auto, but only a 100-200 in semi auto.

I would think with the completed install of ALL the components of the FTK, you should look at a 10.8v 3000mah battery at least, with Ni-cad being the preferred battery due to it's higher short-term current discharge capacity.

[N3XO]

Mac, I got your point. And yes it really make sense that you'll need a LOT of torque to move a spring from half point to max. compare with moving a spring from zero to max. But whats the diff. using 10.8 - 3000 mah with 12 - 1900 mah ? The 12 V surely have a better power than 10.8 V isnt it ? And from your opinion does the 300% spring will damage your mechbox pretty fast ? If yes, whats the 1st part will damage ?

[N3XO]

Sorry Grey, I'll move to doc's corner....

[mcguyver]

The front of the mechbox is likely the first to suffer a crack or break entirely, right at the cylinder/head joint.

And it's the current needed to run your motor, not the voltage. The voltage level will determine bas run speed (no-load), but it's the current that's needed to effect start-up and running of the motor. A 12v 1100mah battery will have exactly the same available current as an 8.4v 1100mah battery. As the battery cells are connected in series, the current cannot increase, but voltage is additive.

In a different battery scenario where cells are connected in parallel, current would be additive and voltage remains the same. But this is NOT recommended in battery construction as any voltage differences between cells = voltage potential which will cycle between the cells. This will end up killing dead all connected cells.

So standard series wiring is used as there is no potential between cells, but you are limited in current delivery. Try a bigger battery (mah rating not voltage) and see how your gun performs.

[N3XO]

Mac, thanks for your advice. This week I'm trying to get a larger mah battery. But I'm thinking much about the mechbox durability. I guess I'll going to change my 300% with 200%, it supposed makes my mechbox last longer isnt it ..... ?! For 200% PSG spring, 10.8 - 1500 mah is enough or still better go with a bigger one like 2400 or 3000 mah ? I saw guys in airsoft Ohio using 9.6 - 2400 mah for his PSG but I dont know the spring that he's using.