SL9 Airsoft AEG Sniper Rifle by Umarex

[ThunderCactus]

I'm also really curious as to what's actually causing this issue now.
What's the fitment like between the inner and outer barrel?
Where does the inner barrel line up to the end of the suppressor?
If the inner barrel just wobbles in the outer, you could fix it by just putting a few wraps of teflon tape at the further point held by the outer, as a barrel bushing.

[RainyEyes]

Originally Posted by wilekcmc

Again How do I pos pics to show what I am talking about?

It appears that you have shared these images from your google drive. These files will be marked as private unless specified users are authorized to access them in order to be viewed.

If that is the case, please go back to your google drive and click on the share button. On the pop-up box on the top right corner, you will see "get shareable link", or to that effect, which will allow anyone with the link to access your images.

Hope this helps!

[ThunderCactus]

Yeah it doesn't take much for a suppressor to be out, especially with an exit aperture of only 8.5mm
For the record, it takes about 3ms for a .30 to travel the 330mm from the end of the inner to the end of the suppressor. 0.003 seconds.

A normal AEG cylinder doesn't even have enough air volume to use anything over a 420mm barrel anyway. So although the extra barrel length isn't directly hindering performance, you're joule creeping in reverse, and the extra length is just extra length for fouling to mess up the shot.
So if the outer barrel is only 300 to 363mm long, you're actually better off just running a 300-363mm inner barrel. There's no rule stating your inner has to be the same length as your outer barrel plus attachment.

[ThunderCactus]

Slap a 229mm in there and do the same.
I'm running a 300 6.05 in my M14 and it's looking pretty impressively consistent at 200+ft
The length of your barrel is only really a measure of acceleration. Once the BB has passed through the hopup, it now has range and most of it's accuracy. Depending on your barrel pressure, the next few mm's center the BB straight. Anything beyond that is really just there to increase maximum potential fps and accelerate the BB more slowly.

Pistols have tiny little short 3" barrels, yet at the max range of 160ft, my USP compact was hitting 6" groupings (.32g at 250fps, about .95j). And I still don't know how much of that was me. Could very well have been hitting nickels for all I know; hard to tell without a gun vice and a closed course.
All the barrel has to do is point the BB in a straight direction and not interfere with it's backspin. The backspin and BB composition really take care of the rest. As long as the hopup imparts the backspin perfectly perpendicular to the ground, it'll fly straight.
Major issues are inconsistent hop; either imparting randomly side to side or inconsistent amount of backspin, and inconsistent fps; which can also cause inconsistent backspin applied.

To say it simply; if a 650mm barrel really had any serious advantage over a 90mm barrel, you would see a drastic performance difference between the two in terms of accuracy. But it's just not there. The issue wouldn't just get worse on a steady curve, it would get exponentially worse as you shortened the barrel past the point where people think the BB is still being stabilized.

And, let's be real here, if longer barrels were better, every guntech worth their salt would be running a polearm of a rifle lol

A rumor had gone around that 420mm was "the most efficient" or "the best" barrel length, 1) I had said that like 5 or 6 years ago and since refuted it after seeing CQBRs shooting as well as whatever gun I had at the time, and 2) airsoftmechanics found that a 420mm barrel (6.03 I guess?) was the best match for a full cylinder, but made no correlation as to in accuracy compared to other lengths.

[wilekcmc]

Thanks to those who told me how to upload the photos, went back and fixed the original post.

[ThunderCactus]

Wow, that hop rubber was butchered.

[lurkingknight]

Originally Posted by Zeroroaster

Yeah that was extremely rough! It almost makes you think it was torn during original assembly and obviously not QC'd.

So does the BB still catch the edge of the suppressor? Just curious...

I found for G36 the Lonex hopup is less hassles than the ProWin. No hassles actually.

I would say it depends on the manufacturer. I could not get a lonex unit to work in a CA or ares gun.

I like the shs pps aluminum chamber in my CA, that same chamber seems to not like the ares but I haven't tried extensively.

I've had the worst luck with prowins, they have the most issues with feeding that I found.