JG m4a1 Enhanced Upgrades

[saltylol]

Im wanting to make this gun into a sniper, here is a direct link as to where I bought it from and all the specifics(Dont ask why im upgrading it, its just a small project that I wanna do, I love the way they look in this setup.)

https://www.airsoftmegastore.com/Pro...JG-F6604-V2011

The biggest things I want done to this gun are: Barrel, RIS System, Suppressor, New Hop Up if needed..

I want this thing to have good accuracy and good fps at 100yds or so.

Try to keep the price to the minimum. Thank you for those who post or for those who try to help very much.

[HKGhost]

good accuracy sniper rifles are not cheap to build. To have it up to par with bolt action rifle, the upgrades going into your gun will cost 5x-7x more than the gun itself. Stick with basic instead of going sniper rifle.

[Kos-Mos]

Upgrading that gun will never let you hit something at 100yd. That is not a BB gun, it's still an airsoft.

Plus, and AEG is almost never a good sniping platform.
If you really want to have a chance to hit something, inside, with controled conditions at 100yd, you want to buy a Maruzen APS-2 Type 96, a Tokyo Marui VSR-10 Pro Sniper or a Classic Army Remington M24.

Then you also want to buy about 1000$ in parts and upgrades to get the rifle as consistent as possible.

When that is done, you will have to work hard on your shooting skill, that might take up to 10 years.

If you want to hit something with some sort of accuracy (hit a man-sized target 9 times out of 10, in the body center) at say... 60yd, you can achieve it with a good quality rifle. That JG M4 would be decent as a base gun, but you really want a rifle length vs carbine (M16, SPR, SR-25 etc.) Barrel length will give you a LOT of added consistency and accuracy. You won't shoot further, but you will shoot in a smaller grouping.

That again would mean you change everything on the rifle, minus the receiver if it is metal. At that point, it would be cheaper to just buy a very good quality receiver, ie. Madbull's CNC JP Rifles receiver sets, and build something from there.

Again, consistency is the key. You want your FPS to be around 430 MAX and have a variation of at most ±2fps. Higher FPS is 100% useless and will only degrade accuracy and kill your gun faster. You also want to get a reinforced mechbox. If you can find one, the Prowin CNC ones are very nice. Don't even think about using a stock TM mechbox or any other china clone mechbox. A CA or G&P or KingArms mechbox would work. You then want to install a bore-up cylinder kit, preferably one with a flat cylinder and piston, so that you can add a sorbo pad upgrade. You want a high torque gear set, High torque motor (I really like the JG blue motors... for some reason they are really amazing for cheap), MOSFET trigger system, bearings (7 or 8mm, 6mm are not worth it), metal spring guide with bearings, reinforced piston (Modify's Ultra High speed is very good for that), air seal nozzle.
Then you want to install a one piece barrel (Madbulls Dissipator are very nice for that purpose), 6.03 tight bore (no, 6.01 is not better) in the longest length possible. 509mm (M16 lenght) is a good start. One piece metal hop-up unit (Prometheus, SystemA, KingArms are good ones), a good rubber (Prometheus purple or Guarder clear are very good). Then install your choice of free float handguard/RIS system. As long as it is installed properly (tight and shimmed correctly), it won't change a thing except for looks. Same for the stock, anything will work, but make sure to tighten the screw properly, as it holds the mechbox in place. You might also need to shim the mechbox to get a perfect air seal, as the motor grip and stock screw might make it move a tiny bit and out of alignment.

For an "M" series platform, that would be it. Using any V3 rifle (G36, AK, AUG) or V7 (M14) would be a lot more efficient though, as the mechboxes are a lot sturdier and efficient.