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Deans Connectors..

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Old August 12th, 2010, 12:23   #31
Azathoth
 
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Apparently there is a new connector in town I think i heard it called as UV-2. It's purple and it looks somewhat like a tamiya/TRAXXAS. The RC Chopper flyers and racers are loving it.

Banana connectors come in all different shapes, widths and lengths and diameter

Comparing your Banana to this.

That is more like what i seen used:
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Old August 12th, 2010, 13:20   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azathoth View Post

Comparing your Banana to this.
didn't I post that already?
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Old August 12th, 2010, 13:37   #33
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If I was starting cold something like that Traxxas sure would look attractive

Right now the idea of chopping all my batteries to swap up a new plug doesn't have me running for the workshop.
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Old August 12th, 2010, 13:42   #34
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So, lets talk deans again.

I stated my opinion in my last post on page 2.

Quote:
I've got deans in my guns... but I prefer them just to save space and to make sure all my guns use the same connectors. I don't go out of my way to install them.

I honestly don't see why they're necessary though. I can't imagine it saves all that much power and even with a 11.1v lipo in my gun, I find them unnecessary.

I could understand if you're using a heavy support gun or have an incredibly heavy trigger finger, but for most people, I think they're unnecessary.

edit: One thing I don't like about deans connectors are that they can be difficult to unplug at times - an issue that I seldom have with standard connectors.
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Old August 12th, 2010, 14:03   #35
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At least half of the AEGs I've had came to me used. On all the used ones the stock Tamiya plugs were hooped, plastic turned yellow/brittle, wiring loose or plugs damaged. They had to be replaced and the Deans type is a reasonable choice. Ditto for any battery that came with.

I do have one Tamyia running left on a stick but that's on a rare new AEG so it'll stay till it shows signs of wear.
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Old August 12th, 2010, 19:37   #36
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Well here goes,I'v been using Deans for almost 18 years (yeh there not new). I use to use them all the time when I was racing R/C cars at an insane level. Now for thoes that don't know why Tamiya are Crap,I'll tell you. Ones they get too lose from being pluged & unpluged they start to arc. I'v seen some ones R/C truck go up in flames because of this. When you notice them start to get hot,it's time to get rid of them.All my AEG's run on them with out a prob. And the Deans are realy easy to install. People freak when they talk about LiPos's going up in flames,whats the difference lol.I also run LiPo's with no prob's. But thats just from what I'v seen over the years.
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Old August 12th, 2010, 20:04   #37
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It's simple, with deans connectors you have less resistance in your connections which means:

- less (almost no) power lost to heat
- ability to pull a stronger spring with the same battery
- ability to use the battery longer since it takes less power from the battery on each shot to pull your spring

Some of the worst setups for battery/power efficiency are stock TM wiring setups, with a mini connector off the mechbox going into an extension length of wire with another mini connector for the battery.

Basically with deans it's bars of metal with solid, big areas in contact with each other. They're equivalent to a similar length of wire.
Large Tamiya are OK but still not as good; mini Tamiya are horrible for resistance and solidity of connection.
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Old August 12th, 2010, 21:55   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Styrak View Post
It's simple, with deans connectors you have less resistance in your connections which means:

- less (almost no) power lost to heat
- ability to pull a stronger spring with the same battery
- ability to use the battery longer since it takes less power from the battery on each shot to pull your spring

Some of the worst setups for battery/power efficiency are stock TM wiring setups, with a mini connector off the mechbox going into an extension length of wire with another mini connector for the battery.

Basically with deans it's bars of metal with solid, big areas in contact with each other. They're equivalent to a similar length of wire.
Large Tamiya are OK but still not as good; mini Tamiya are horrible for resistance and solidity of connection.
Actually your third point is incorrect. There is less resistance in the Deans which means less loss of power due to heat that is where you get all of the benefits of longer shooting battery etc. At the end of the day the battery is delivering as much power as the system is drawing up to it's maximum C value.

I use TRAXXAS on some of my RC batteries. Since all my guns have Trigger units it's simple to have a separate set of cables ready to switch to TRAXXAS, Deans or whatever else (screw adaptor cables bad idea anyways).

I intentionally did this because I did not want to lend my batteries (i use only LiPo, LiFePo) to people who do not have low voltage cut offs. Non Lipo users tend to be afraid of even asking me for a battery; They are afraid of the explodium in them, and what could happen to their gearboxes. Also, I've learned the hard way that people generally don't have a clue how many rounds they are spitting out and they end up killing my batteries. I went so far as not include Tamiya connectors on my charging squid.

Also 14.8 batteries on a Deans is like a GOOD 11.1 lipo on a small Tamiya with a decent motor. Something you really shouldn't do.

To answer Kid's question.

It's easier to source LiPo batteries across the entire quality spectrum than it is to do it for NiMH and NiCD. Also LiPo is generally cheaper than the Nickel batteries. I can spend 30-40 dollars on a Crane battery of unknown quality or get some really kick ass Lithium batteries. I could buy disposable lipo brands like hot power $8.00 or go high end like flightpower $100's or middle of the road venom $20.00. It's really tough to do that with Nickel tech batteries.

If you drop into and RC meet or race I guarantee that you will find people who replace their 100 dollar lipo batteries every 2-3 months in the racing season and you can get them for pennies on the dollar.
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