Upgrading to an M150 with stock CA gears

[doc_pathfinders]

Yes, you've read the title and thought what i feel "damn noob, thinking he can throw an M150 into a stock rifle and expect it to run"

well, let me lay the back story for you...
i'm the 'gun doc' for cyprus to be honest, and i offer my services gratis because i'm that sort of guy (within reason) and to get the sport started in cyprus we need a few knowledgeable people to help new guys out..

well, i set off an arms-race after crafting a rifle to act as a DMR, and now i have someone asking me to set him up with something similar..

BUT he doesn't want to fork out for new gears (tight-ass). I don't want to let this guy do it alone as i know that he won't know how to do this thing properly, but i don't want to do it if i KNOW it'll blow up in his first game/very shortly after

taking a Classic army M16 (non-sportline) and putting in the following parts, would you expect it to last a couple of months? (semi-auto only fire plus the guy isn't rambo, he runs with realcaps and i'd put his per-gaming-day ammunition usage as around 150 bb's)

New polycarb piston (with metal teeth insert, unsure of brand but looks like it can take some punishment)
Polycarb Piston head (strong looking, as above)
Guarder infinite-torque motor
One hell of a shim-job (i'd take a while to get this right if i go ahead with this)
11.1v 2000MaH lipoly (he has this already)
_using the existing classic army steel gears_

i'm asking in YOUR EXPERIENCE, do you think that this will grenade before i even hand it over, possibly last for a while or the only answer you can give is 'suck it and see' (which is what i'm thinking) has anyone else, for shits and giggles decided to put such a spring in to a CA and had the piston die on them rather then the gears?

please note, before this gets off topic, i am fully aware that this setup needs high-torque gears to be 'correct' but as high-power setups are quite new to me (england was usually a max of 350FPS, more usual 330FPS) i'm asking the sage advice of other gun doc's on this topic before i decide to help this guy.

thanks for any advice,

[CDN_Stalker]

Well, for starters, I'd be more worried about the mechbox, it's a V2 and can break rather easily up front, either from a heavy spring (M150 could happen within 500 rounds) or a a medium spring and a LOT of rounds shot. I blew out the mechbox on my first MP5, had a PDI 150% spring in it, shot right around 350fps, but because I shot it a lot within the first two months of having it in there, I cracked both halves of my mechbox right under where the front of the cylinder sits (the typical weak point for V2 mehcboxes). Even reinforced mechboxes will crack, they just take longer.

Second, you know an M150 is likely to put that gun to around 500fps, right? Typically spring ratings like that are in meters per second, so that'd be 492fps with 0.20g BBs.

[doc_pathfinders]

CDN_Stalker, yep, fully aware of the FPS this would be kicking out..

i was also thinking of radiusing the gearbox stress-points, to keep it going longer but i had no idea that it might go in as little as 500rds (pot metal FTL)

please bear in mind that the temperature here would always be in the 20's (celcius) so low-temperature performance isn't an issue.

I used an ICS M4 as the basis for my SPR (runs an m150) and i know that's highly unlikely to die on me (high-torque gears and the robust nature of ICS gearbox design) but while i'm interested in the other variables in reliability using 'high-power' springs, i'm just interested in IF CA standard gears can pull an m150, (taking into account he has a guarder infinite torque motor and 11.1v Lipoly)

i have this problem that i put an m130 in for him (along with a re-shim) and it's been singing, and after i displayed my SPR (which just needs a mosfet to finish it) he started asking about putting in an m150 (hence me talking about arms-race situation)

I may have to just do it for him but say 'it will blow up in a week' and leave it at that..

it's just that i know this guy will do a ham-fisted job and probably give me the thing to fix after he's stripped all the screws etc etc..

[coach]

not a 100% resolve but get the MASK piston and cylinder heads. though it adds $54 to the cost, it will help protect that shell by minimizing the shock of the piston slamming. alternatively, you could just order the pads and install onto the current parts. just remember to check for proper piston and sector gear engagement and remove the first tooth on the piston if needed.

[Amos]

The MASK Piston head and cylinder head would be an excellent start...

But... If someone were to come to me wanting such an extreme build but not willing to pay for the necessary parts... I wouldn't build the gun for them.

I've seen CA gear strip on M120 set ups..

For M150 you'd also want high torque gears otherwise you'll be straining your motor quite a bit.

[doc_pathfinders]

Amos, my thinking exactly.. i think it's time to just say no.

EDIT:
just goes to show that some people arn't greatful, just spoke with the guy and he just about accused me of being
'one sided' because i'm not 'doing' his AEG for him..
*sigh*
i told him he just needs to grab a new set of gears (i point people where to buy, so it's not like i make anything off of him buying them)
but he 'cant understand how an m130 and an m150 can be so different' that they need different gears.

sometimes i wonder why i bother.

[Amos]

Gotta learn to deal with people like that..

When someone wants an "extreme" build but aren't willing to buy the parts required.. Just say no... Otherwise it'll be all your fault (no matter how many times you've told them, noted it in their bill, EVERYTHING like that) that this part failed shortly after because they did not want to replace it.

[doc_pathfinders]

worst part (well for me anyway) is that i do this for free just to help people get started..

as you say, no matter what i do i would be 'blamed' so i just need to hold out and say no until he gets the bare minimum that is needed.