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#1 |
docholidayy
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MP7 CQB bolt& Power Up Silencer
I looked around quite a bit but i can't seem to find a Canadian retailer for this:
- KWA MP7 CQB bolt and/or - the 6mm Solution Power Up Silencer for KWA MP7 Any of you know one, if not in Canada internationally that has low shipping rates and preferably both items in stock. The silencer seems to be sold out everywhere. ![]() |
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#2 |
You could call KWA directly and have it shipped to you if they have it in stock
Or find a regular bolt and mod it to the level you need (removing material on the jet valve increase fps, adding material (such as adding a shim) should have the reverse effect I guess) Or get an NPAS (RaTech), and have the same bolt for CQB/outdoor Airsoftparts.ca sell them I think Don't know about the silencer thingny |
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#3 |
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#4 | |
Mr. Silencer
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Quote:
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#5 |
Prancercise Guru
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The silencer gives you more power but less accuracy.
The CQB bolt gives less power. It seems like you are going in 2 directions at once. What's your plan? The link below is check first kind of place. http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/in...oducts_id=2390
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Airsoft, where nothing is hurt but feelings. |
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#6 |
docholidayy
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The stock bolt shoots above 400fps apparently which makes it not usable for CQB or field play.
CQB bolt brings it down to 290fps from what I have read and seen in videos. I ope the silencer will bring it back up to a field acceptable level maybe even just to 350fps. Any experience? Edit: Thanks for the link, like to buy local if possible. Last edited by docholiday; October 30th, 2012 at 15:22.. |
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#7 |
Prancercise Guru
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The NPAS is the best fix for FPS as you can set to the temperature and in or out.
The silencer will degrade your accuracy out of doors. I run mine just outside with a tightbore and stock bolt. It's wicked.
__________________
Airsoft, where nothing is hurt but feelings. |
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#8 | |
8=======D
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Quote:
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Brian McIlmoyle TTAC3 Director CAPS Range Officer Toronto Downtown Age Verifier OPERATION WOODSMAN If the tongue could cut as the sword does, the dead would be infinite |
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#9 |
Tys
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I had the KWA MP7...which roughly shoots 400fps. I bought the RATech NPAS for it. Just a couple of notes on it.
- the dinky long allen key was too small for the actual adjustment stem. Either the end of the rod was off or the socket in the stem was off...either way I had to file an allen key to fit. - the float valve itself is very much shaped like the Asian version...and without adjusting it lower the RATech NPAS drops the FPS to the very low 300's. The KWA/US version is much more of a "lawn dart fin" type rocket valve....which lets a lot more gas down the barrel. So...if you want to just stick it at "indoor" sub 350 you might just simply want to get a Taiwan version float valve and try that out. Might just do the trick. I don't know if the MP7 float valve is so unique that it's different from other models. All that said...it's much easier to simply get another whole bolt to swap power levels since you have to disassemble the bolt and nozzle to swap float valves....and or potentially swear at yourself messing around with an ill fitting adjustment tool. Dunno about the 6mm power up Silencer you list...but the Angry Gun suppressor comes with a made to fit flash hider that replaces the stock one. Very tight/straight fit. Neat setup in how it extends the inner and keeps the pressure up. Watch the velocities since I hit 500fps w/0.20's and 450 w/0.30's. However...the inner in the suppressor is a 6.01 tightbore and the stock barrel in the gun isn't. So the BB's definitely clip the starting edge of the extension. It doesn't affect accuracy too badly but it doesn't improve it. Definitely doesn't quiet anything down. |
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#10 |
Is there a 6.01 tb available for the body of the gun? That would solve the bb clipping problem.
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#11 |
Tys
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Dynamo had a great idea to just take a long tightbore, cut it at a 45deg on a lathe so the ends match exactly, then cut the hopup notches/etc and mount the other bit in the silencer.
It's about 100th on my list of things desperately needed to do ![]() |
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#12 |
aka coachster
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What material is the angry gun 6.01? Could the gun end of the tight bore be flared ever so slightly to eliminate the clipping? Wouldn't be better than a full length tight bore but a lot less work. Might still get BB bouncing after the transition but might stabilize better than being chipped or deformed from the transition impact.
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#13 |
Harvester of Noobs' Sorrow
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watch out for the NPAS from RAtech. the rocket valve is quite a bit heavier than the stock valve, and i have had to machine a new steel cross pin (the one in the bolt that holds the valve forward) in Scatter-Shot's gun. the stock cross pin shattered right in the center and damaged both the back of the valve, as well as the side walls of the bolt.
and yes, the adjustment tool is useless, and scratched the inside of the barrel (derp! lets stick a steel rod with sharp edges down a brass tube). about the Angry Gun suppressor, it's an interesting design, but i feel it would work better if the crown on the barrels were reversed. as it is now, the leading edge of the AGS barrel is facing back directly in the path of the BB. a 45< crown wouldn't be needed, it can be done with 15-20< (i personally re-crown all my barrels to 15<. completely changes the muzzle report). ideally, a 6.03+ barrel should be used. the more air cushion space around the BB, the less likely it is to strike the seam between both barrels.
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Weapons Technician / Gunsmith Don't look at me, I don't know, lol ¯\(°_o)/¯. |
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#14 |
Tys
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I'm pretty sure the inner of the Angry gun suppressor is stainless.
In the end...the shots with the setup kitty corner across TTAC were fine re. accuracy. I can't recall that there were any/many fliers or wild shots. I haven't shot it at longer ranges really. While it'd be better if the BBs weren't clipping I think the length of barrel in the suppressor is long enough to restabilize the BB. Definitely less than ideal but good enough for now. I'd cut the two barrels from one barrel...so as to ensure that the inner diameters were the same. The fit on the flash hider is good...but not 0.01mm good. So there's going to be some misalignment somewhere. @ Dynamo...I'm pretty sure the angle would be whatever I ended up setting my tool holder to...LOL I've got to grind a new cutoff tool first. Completely agree that a 6.03/4 would be better in general...and that if the male part of the cone was in the gun it'd be best. I have some stock AEG barrels to do some test run chop ups and testing. It'll be a mid-winter project at this point. |
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