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Originally Posted by Marriott
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The Omega / Classic are not the same thing as the Ceramic / Synergie line. Do not confuse the two. The Ceramic / Synergie line is the one you're looking for
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marriott
Humm.... Those Kanzeon ones seem to have different dimensions. the Omega ones are 3x8x2.5mm... The ceramics ate 3x8x4mm.... Will have to check depths and such. Illusion i know you havse used Pro-Wins before. Have you used These in one of the shells? I hav ehte Black Seccond version edition.
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I got my own PGC gearbox when they first came out, so it was the 7mm version. At the time, I did not have access to Kanzen bearings, so I got the next best I could find: Prometheus. They held up well to the 425fps setup I had running through them.
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Originally Posted by Marriott
Yea i spent along time shimming these. Checking for side to side play etc. They ran smoothly within the gearbox with minimal but very slight play maybe less than 1/4 - 1/3mm. It seemed to flow well. I've put beraings on countless other upgrades before also.
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IMHO, I think 1/4 - 1/3mm play is still too little for bearing use, as that is pretty much the combined amount of play of both sides of the bearings at each end of the axle. Don't forget that the inner race does move against the outer race. That level of play allows for smooth movement between the parts of the bearing - if it were made tight, it would have too much friction to move. Where 0.25 - 0.33mm of play is okay for bearings, I actually go up to 0.5mm of play for bearings. I once blew some bearings for going too close to 0.25 - 0.33mm.
... or that could've been from an extreme setup, but that's another story. :P
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Originally Posted by Marriott
I was wating for someone to comment on that. I use the Watts up power meter for checking batteries and power draw over, along with oter areas, Helps find the ideal fuse for a setup too. I've always seen Full auto pulling several amps less than Semi. This is why loads of semi auto trigger pulls blows fuses because of power spikes. Any thoughts as to why? I think i'll have to re-look in to this.
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That was why I asked if you had any damage to your piston - even if you removed the 2nd tooth, your voltage is extremely high and your setup could still be catching some of the teeth. This would be one source of resistance. How many rounds have you put through the system?
Prometheus gears are not indestructible - just last week I did a repair on a gun with a somewhat similar situation, where the inner teeth of the Prometheus high speed bevel gear were completely stripped to sh!t. All 12 teeth were sheared off, with minimal damage to the spur gear. I couldn't figure out why at first, then I noticed the setup was used with a Prometheus MS120SP spring.
Systema engineers have a theory on what they call "accumulated energy", which is what occurs when you have too little torque running through a system through some imbalance, whether the battery is too high, or the spring is too strong, etc. Either way, the system is imbalanced. Typically, most users will experience this when upgrading to a 400fps spring and maintaining OEM or standard torque gear ratios. As the motor gets cranked to wind the piston, energy builds up in the motor - when the piston finally gets released, an extreme amount of energy has built up in the motor to the point where the sector gear is practically THROWN the rest of the way and reaches the point of reset long before the piston has returned to battery. The sector gear rotating at that speed combined with the piston slamming forward ends up in a violent head-on collision.
This problem is further exacerbated with high voltage batteries. Increasing voltage is never a good idea to solve ROF issues - you can only go so far before the system becomes imbalanced.
My theory on why the mechbox on my workbench had the stripped bevel gear was due to this "accumulated energy" - further inspection of the piston confirmed my theory, as at least half of the piston teeth were damaged from striking the sector gear as it returned to battery. The shock force of the sector gear resisting against the piston was sent back through the spur gear. The spur gear stopping while the motor was still turning the bevel gear resulted in another collision at the bevel/spur gear junction, which eventually caused all of those connecting teeth to strip.
Again... check your piston to see if there's any damage to it. Otherwise, try a lower voltage setup, or if you REALLY have to have that extreme ROF (and it sounds like you're really pushing for it), I'd highly recommend short-stroking your piston and sector gears. The setup you're running almost demands a short-stroke mod.
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Originally Posted by Marriott
Was just suggested tolook up Phoenix Gears.... They look very good. Metal Injection production, self shimming, the works and found 2 shops stocking them. They sure arnt cheap though lol! $96-$130 for the gears, hummm.
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My experience with Phoenix gears were not so good... I snapped several teeth off the spur gear and to this day, do not know why. I also found them to be quite noisy.