The thing which is just really confusing me is that the slide isn't sticking on the hammer itself when it locks up during shooting, it locks when the slide is kicked back, so maybe with the force of the recoil, the hammer knocks the slide upward enough for something to bind, but it's binding up with a lot of force that's for sure, I don't have a way of holding my phone up to show how hard it is to move the slide forward again unfortunately.
The guide rails on this gun are thick enough that I don't think it's screwing up on those, I think it would be pretty obvious and you'd see some damage on the, but the paint wear on them looks about the same as it did yesterday before it started doing this so severely.
I kind of wish it had a clear slide so I could get a better look at the issue, too bad I don't have an xray machine.
I did notice there are those two little pins that seem to be part of the hammer mechanism, maybe one of them is part of the issue? They are in good shape too though, they don't look any different to my previous inspections of that area.
Side note, I took that video after I reassembled the gun, hence why there is so much oil on the slide from my hands.
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edit: Oh yeah and it still locks up. Sadly the problem didn't get magically fixed.
I looked into the disassembly process to get access to the sear spring, it looks relatively easy since it seems you can just slip the spring out once you remove that back grip section? Going further than that though I'm not sure, the mechanism beyond that point seems fairly complicated, and I don't think I'd be comfortable doing that, looking at guides right now but not feeling up to that especially since it seems you need to remove snap rings and stuff.
If the hammer assembly has something wrong beyond what could be fixed by adjusting the sear spring, I'd have to bite the bullet and send it back to Division XP for a warranty repair, not sure if they can provide return shipping labels or not, but I'd work something out anyhow. Maybe filing the hammer is the solution to this but that would definitely be something that voids warranty, and I don't know why it would randomly start being an issue after a bit unless the paint that hadn't worn was keeping things working properly, and now that it's a little loser without the paint it was able to mess up like this.
this is the guide I'm skimming, also one with a full teardown but yeah, seems this is as far as you would need to go for the sear adjustment.
http://airsoftpacific.com/viewtopic.php?t=14294