It took me a little while to get back to it.. but the sleeved over barrel idea worked fabulously. 1/2" OD stainless tubing, with the end cap of the suppressor countersunk to accept the end of the OD stainless tubing in a friction fit .. still has same nominal bore outlet as the stock suppressor does, looking end-on. The outer sleeve is kept centered by the suppressor 'packing foam' in the suppressor body, and slips loosely over the stock brass inner barrel that protrudes from the gas-block/sight assembly.
It's following the same principle of construction, of a 'suppressor' tracer unit, that i had on hand.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HackD
Thanks for the tips.. if a longer inner barrel is inadvisable, without requisite gearbox work (I'm of the school that believes if it ain't broke yet, don't #@#! with it) then an alternative solution might be going to metal supermarket and getting a section of oversize brass tubing to fix in place inside the suppressor.
Firing up the bench drill and fabbing up a suppressor base inner spacer to sleeve the oversize brass tubing over the stock inner barrel, drill out the nose of the suppressor to the OD of the tubing, and interference fit in place, flush through the nose of the suppressor. In essence, creating a larger diameter "outer/inner" barrel that shouldn't affect the piston's volumetric pressure characteristics, near as badly as an extended length 6.03 inner barrel. BB's might bounce, but they won't be shattering against the interior of the suppressor nose, or otherwise becoming wild flyers.
I've yet to pull a battery out and charge it up for a test, but if the hop-up setting doesn't eliminate this issue, it might be worthy of a Saturday afternoon garage project experiment/solution.
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