[quote=kar120c;1849432]
Quote:
Originally Posted by e-luder
It could be.
It's really hard to know for sure.
There is a few possible scenarios where a trigger does not reset.
What are these scenarios? maybe the Guarder Steel trigger bar may be useful?
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Well....:
1). The trigger bar spring too weak:
If the trigger bar spring can not pull the trigger bar properly because it's too weak, damaged or obstructed, the trigger will not reset.
Remember what this part does. It's the primary spring that pushes (or pulls) the whole trigger mechanism forward.
2). Damaged blow back unit and/or damaged trigger bar:
In most cases, if your blowback unit is worn down such that it can no longer push the top nub on the trigger that sticks out from the hammer housing, the trigger bar will never reset regardless if your trigger bar spring works or not.
The trigger bar will never be able to slip out to reset, not only the trigger, but also for the sear to lock the hammer.
3). Bent trigger bar "nub" bent trigger bar...uhh... strut? (lol)
if your trigger bar is bent, it will grind against two main key places on your lower internal system.
The first is the frame. It will obstruct the ride of the trigger bar as it actuates. This is part of the obstructed trigger spring thingy I was talking about in NO.1. If this is the case, you will see some sort of grind marks on the frame on the right side where the trigger is riding along.
The second is the nub on top that you can physically see. That round part on the hammer mechanism on the right side (if you were pointing the muzzle away from you ie. shooting someone). If that nub is bent, it will misalign itself from the blowback unit. Secondly, it will grind against the slot on the hammer mechanism and prevent a smooth ride when the trigger is pulled.
4). The actual trigger is non functional.
This can be due to the lack of slack the trigger has when it's inserted into the plastic frame. On some aftermarket triggers, they sometimes fit rather tightly when inserted into a Guarder frame. This physically obstructs the trigger's movement causing a delayed trigger reset (ready to fire state).
Another things is the re-assembly of the trigger mech after the gun has been completely broken down. Some operators run into this where they insert the slide catch a certain and it physically tightens the fitment of the trigger.
5). Safety Trigger is too long (highly unlikely in most cases)
In very few cases, I've found that some Glocks had a "longer than usual" safety trigger. If this happens, the trigger bar may or may not reset properly because the longer safety will not allow a fast return to the trigger's charged state. It will jam the trigger, essentially.
Although, if this happens, the trigger safety will not work at all. That is, your gun will NOT have a safety feature on it.
again, this is highly unlikely but I've seen it before.
6). The manual safety malfunctioning
In Marui Guns, the manual safety (disguised as a serial number plate beneath the rail), sometimes gets displaced due to poor spacing between the front chassis and the frame and prevents the actual trigger from functioning.
Anyways, that's all I can think of right now. I can't know for sure what the problems is. It's hard to diagnose on the internet. Sometimes it's a completely different diagnosis altogether from when I physically have it in front of me to inspect.
My suggestion is to just inspect everything make sure that nothing is out of place before you go and spend some money on extra parts...