[solidgear34]

Originally Posted by e-luder

Uhhh...

What!?
I don't understand. What exactly is the "default position". lol.

You're gun is not shooting because there's no interaction in the slide to frame department.

As I've stated before, to get your slide to sit tighter, you need to space the BBU further from the slide. This is done by shimming it. When you're BBU is closer to the frame it will eliminate the wobble because it will crimp the slide rails and frame rails together.

OR

as I stated earlier also, you're trigger bar and your full auto sear is worn such that they no longer have the ability to interact with the slide efficiently.

What I don't understand from you're previous post is how you're gauging your "trigger timing" if your hammer is not working. When you charge your gun the hammer should lock back and trigger should be set in a ready to fire state.
What I'm understanding is that once this happens, your hammer is permanently cocked. So you can't fire the gun even though you've pulled the trigger.

Is that what is happening?

If I am right in assuming this, you can't gauge the "trigger timing" because there's no cycle. If you're hammer is staying cocked, then that means your firing pin (the valve knocker) is not actuating. Which means there's no air coming from the magazine to cycle the shot and trip the trigger bar and the full auto sear as well as reset the hammer. You'd have to keep doing a takedown and releasing the hammer manually each time you charge the gun.

Your description is confusing because it is contradictory to your initial post. That is, apart from the first post that stated:

then you go on to a description that assumes that hammer is functioning:



What exactly is the "trigger pin" you are referring to and how does it cause a malfunction? You're too vague with your descriptions. If you're talking about the pin above the trigger, that has nothing to do with the problem you are describing. It just holds the trigger mech together. it doesn't actuate in anyway when the gun fires....

The "timing problem" is not really a problem. As long as the trigger bar can slip between the tab on SEMI Sear you're ok. I would check the SEMI sear to make sure it's still in good shape.

Although, you can mod the BBU a bit to trip the trigger bar nub much sooner. but It already has little room to work from the start.

As people have already stated in previous posts, I would advise you to take the gun to a gun tech in your area. Us on the internet can only assume so much from your descriptions. We can't properly diagnosis it if the gun is not in front of us (at least I can't)....

well what i found out is that the pgc slide and the guarder body was not exactly built for eachother, the pgc slide had kind of a big gap that did not press down on the hammer relase nub like it was supposed to do, might have to mod the bbu as you said :S time to get me a gun doc