[e-luder]

This got rid of about 80% of all the friction that was there before. And without grease to.

well to be fair, you'll never be able to get a 100% frictionless slide on the Glock simply because the lower asembley needs to interact with the slide assembly. This is common to all airsoft pistols. But is more evident on the TM Glock because of its design.

I put the o rings on the spring guide so that the spring is a bit contracted. Without the o rings, the spring does not contract fully, so I assume this would add a bit of power to the spring, and more recoil. I originally did this because of the overwhelming amount of friction.

That's the reverse logic. If you put buffers in, it will REDUCE the recoil that you feel. Also, short stroking your gun won't increase the stiffness of your recoil spring. It has no affect on powering or reducing the power of the spring itself.

As I stated before, the buffers will absorb the "blowback" (the force that's felt when the slide travels backwards). If you want a lot of kick in your gun, reduce the power of the recoil spring. This will make it easier for the gasses to push the slide backwards since there will be less resistance. The side effect is, you will have a sluggish slide return.

The common misconception is that a harder recoil spring gives more kick. To some extent yes. But most often times, it will actually reduce the kick. The recoil spring's primary function is to return the slide to battery where it is not compressed. It WANTS to uncompress not the other way around.

The guarder trigger bar is bent just a tad, not as bad as the we, but sometimes it still gets caught. How do you bend it back so the bbh does not get caught on it?

It depends where it's bent. I don't understand how this would happen though. Isn't that trigger bar brand new? And it's made out of steel too. I can't see it bending that easily that fast. You should have years and years before it starts doing this. lol.

The bbh needs to interact with the trigger bar. Otherwise, the trigger can't return to ready fire position. Try adding some grease before you bend it.

But usually, the nub that's protruding from the hammer housing get caught on the BBH when the slide is returning to battery. There should be a slot somewhere on the FRONT where the loading muzzle's casing ends. It tends to get caught there.

What bbh / piston head / nozzle setup do you recommend I get when mine breaks? I understand I need to replace all three at the same time since we is different.

I only tried out the BBH from AIP for the G17 and the Nineball Featherweight BBH for the G18c. I think those are the only two that make a separate BBH. Or you can buy a standard issue Marui BBH... They last just as long and you can add different types of piston head to it...

But I just tried the WE loading muzzle on my AIP set and it fits but it's very loose. The AIP integrated piston head is o-ringed. Which means, if there is a tight/loose fitting with the WE loading muzzle, you can buy 99 cent orings accordingly. But keep in mind, the loading muzzle will still be a bit loose within the BBH itself.

Also, it says that the item is free on the website. Unfortunately my Chinese is very bad, as in I speak none.

What's free? I want one (whatever it is) if it's free.