[wildcard]

Originally Posted by MaciekA

Add to that list:

- mag catch alignment
- hopup unit burring or cast-size issues
- missing motors. Yep, G&P C8s that come with no motor! Not a joke!
- front-most receiver pin flying out during games due to loose upper/lower fit.
- unnecessarily fat 16 gauge wiring that gets chewed to shreds by the pinion gear as soon as it loosens up.
- snapping gear shafts
- stripping pistol grip cap screws
- motor adjustment screws that fly out (not every pistol grip on the market needs threadlock you know)
- strangely bent spring guides (this is a new one)
- singing springs (¡omfg!)
- shitty G&P M120 motors in setups that have M120-M140 springs in them (what's the expected service time on these guns, 3 days?).
- rusting delta rings
- 1-2mm gap between MOE pistol grip and gearbox surface, your motor grip screws cross a 1mm gap even when tightened. Makes pinion to bevel alignment an "adventure".

I would maybe add "soft pinion gears" to the list but I find that no matter how soft the pinion gear is, once you get your setup properly aligned and shimmed the pinions stop mushing and everything is cool.

All that said, their high end neo motors are decent if you are already getting one for free with the gun, their air seal nozzles are great, and the actual gearbox shells themselves are excellent and super solid and compatible with everything out there, the stock barrels are quite good, and the 8mm bearings aren't bad either. I'm also a big fan of the quality and fitment of their aftermarket metal bodies, which come with a lot of nice little extra bits and are a great value overall.

As it already been stated before the G&P from U.S is definitely crap compared to the ones fresh off the boat from HK case in point the Stoner MK rifle my finish is completely different from a buddy of mine that got it from AirsoftGI even the color was off

Originally Posted by HKGhost

TBH, there's only so much mods you can do to prevent the gearbox from exploding in a high speed and high torque setup. Yea there's guns out there that can do both but they don't last. I've seen the 50-60 RPS at 400 FPS, and they can't last a season with regular use. Most of these are then downgraded either the FPS or ROF. You'll need to spend a lot of money to have the best of both worlds believe it or not. AOE, premature engagement and rounding the corners on the gearbox window are only good if the parts can withstand it. V2 gearbox have a built in flaw that's can't be easliy fixed without money dumped into it. So like what wildcat said, high ROF and high FPS don't mix well. Just my 2 cents

That is exactly what i mean

Originally Posted by MaciekA

On the contrary, high fps and high RoF do mix and mix all the time, all over the world, and it's not magical at all. I hope to clarify on this a bit below...

First, the view that stock guns can't handle high fps and high RoF is absolute true, especially in the case of G&P guns which are sold with defective gears and yet are often short stroked or have extremely high torque motors mixed with high speed rotational velocity. I don't know what G&P's people are smoking, maybe they produced like a mountain of defective gears several years ago and haven't gotten rid of all of them yet

Second, the primary reason that the TM V2 design fails in high fps + high RoF is due to the fact that Tokyo Marui never designed this gearbox with today's RoFs and non-Japan velocities in mind. Pretty much everyone acknowledges this.

More on this later...

Before I get to that though, what most Canadian airsofters and ASC people in particular consider high RoF (25rps) and high velocity (400fps) is actually the middle of the road in terms of where the edge of the "what can be built to run reliably" spectrum lies at the moment.

The statement that "high fps and high ROF mix" is demonstrably false for the following reason: A large number of people have mastered this challenge and turned it into a repeatable process, one which is fairly scientific and in no way mystical.

Anybody here can build a 400fps/35rps gun and far far beyond, and if you meet and talk to a few guys on this forum such as lurkingnight or stealth and others who have been active in this topic lately, you'll realize it's really a simple formula and we're preaching the same basic mechanical adjustments over and over and over and are trying to distill it down to a simple set of steps people can follow. My experience in hearing from fellow tinkerers on the field and on the forums indicates we just haven't adequately disseminated the information/tutorials/knowledge to make this an easily-repeatable process for everyone yet, but I'm trying as hard as I can to share my experiences and help guys get their high-intensity setups rock solid. Some may disagree with the specs of these guns, but those that do can officially give up their license to engage in reasonable discussions of how to make AEGs have good trigger response, or how to make them last through winter play, etc. We're doing these mods for a variety of reasons, many of them good, and to characterize this as "dumb ass shit" is callous. You're asking people to set down their tools, turn off their passion for pushing the mechanical extremes, and spend more money. Seriously bro: FUCK that.

In broad strokes, here are Tokyo Marui's V2 design deficiencies:

- Pre-engagement of the sector gear with the piston due to the piston not being able to move fast enough.
- Incorrect angle of engagement with the piston and sector gear's pickup teeth, which should always be flat-face-on-flat-face but is instead in the default Tokyo Marui setup is a line of contact instead of a plane.
- Inadequate absorption of impact at the front of the gearbox, solved by systems like the STS or simply using sorbothane and correct cylinder-to-barrel volume matching. Most V2 gearboxes on the market now have extra material at the front of the cylinder window. Some manufacturers like G&G are radiusing the corners of the windows to increase the surface area where the stress occurs.
- Using the trigger contacts as a primary conduit of current from the battery to the motor. Easily solved with a MOSFET.
- One of my personal favourites, using the air seal nozzle as a mechanism to control BB input flow from the magazine. Defect is not limited to V2 but also V3 especially in the case of longer nozzles and weak tappet plate springs.

Each and every one of these is easily corrected with less money than a steak dinner in Toronto. Fix these issues, do some shimming, drink a beer and at the end of it you have a gearbox that can withstand high RoF and high fps. Sure, it takes time and attention to detail, but there's no need to call this mysticism or dumb. We're hobbyists for goodness sake.

I think you need to chill out and not get so worked up here, the ones I'm talking about are the so called mag ticklers who played the speedball version of airsoft that utilize 40+rps, at 400fps and if you say that a 400+fps with high ROF can be achieved with a Souped up V2 I would like to see one because in my 20+years the only thing that I find after countless of tinkering the safest level to ensured tehe reliability and longevity of a V2 box is around 370-380 anything more than that with todays high current battery set up I'll be surprised that it will last more than half a season and just a little history lesson SORBO pad idea was done before SORBO pad was in existence by Wilson from SD-Unit he was teh first one I see to place a small cushion felt on a cylinder head to minimize teh impact force from using a PDI 300% spring on his SG1 (yes we use to play with 450+fps limits. I can proved this is the set up I have on my TM HK51 that I have since 91, properly shimmed, upgraded with probably the best combination of parts for a V2.
Now back on topic For a nub with little or no experience with tinkering the best bet for an upgrade is still a prebuild mech box from either Lonex or Modify if they want something a bit more extreme then why not go to a remotely external line system like Polarstar.

We are all hobbyist but unless you have lots of spare time to tinker around, I would rather buy something already done and spend most of my time on the field instead at home tinkering. also just a FYI all that stuff you quote about Marui V2, Most of us have figured that shit out in the late 90's when we are all playing HK style maybe a little bit on this later on but boy am I glad that shit part of Canadian airsoft is over