[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

Anyways, Guarder nozzles... suck. I've cracked a few in the 1911/Hi-Capa series. I only have one remaining one which has held up strong (surprisingly). My personal preference for nozzles are the Shooters Design POM, or the Airsoft Surgeon product.

I spoke too soon. After 4 years of use, the feeding tip snapped off the Guarder nozzle that's currently in my Kimber Warrior this past weekend.

Originally Posted by Lessard

The nozzle is new, I installed it yesterday... I'm starting to wonder if I should soak the piston ring in silicone oil for a while, because it seems to soak it up pretty fast. How would I short stroke it? Never done that before, who knows, maybe I did it by accident...

No need to. If you're putting silicone oil in your gas before filling your magazines, then enough oil will blow on to the o-ring as you shoot the gun. I generally do not recommend soaking o-rings unless they're visibly dried out.

At most, you can apply some cylinder grease to the inside of the nozzle.

I'd look again to make sure your floating valve assembly is intact and functioning properly.

As for short stroking, there are numerous ways to do it, from over-coiled springs, to shock buffers, to active recoil buffer springs, to a physical block to reduce the stroke length.

Originally Posted by p.phresh

need some help with a 1911 build.

I am piecing together a 1911 and when I've got the hammer assembly together without the thumb safety in place it works as it should. but as soon as I have the thumb safety in the trigger doesn't return and seems jammed back so much so I actually have to pull it forward forcibly.

I've tried a few different safeties all with the same results. hi capa safety, single side safety, stock, aftermarket and they have the same results. but without a thumb safety it works fine.

any ideas?

I would watch the action with the grip safety removed to see how the interaction is occurring. Unfortunately, I haven't come across this issue before, so I can't suggest anything. I'd have to see it to know what it was doing (or not doing.)

Originally Posted by e-luder

Well, I've noticed that the stirrup wasn't locking properly with the t-bar disconnector. When I observed it with the thumb safety off, the t-bar would "slip" off the grooves hammer because the edges were rounded off.

If you have replacements coming in, you could experiment with it. Just make sure you test fire in a safe direction and location before you load any ammunition in.

Originally Posted by e-luder

This is probably the answer I was expecting. lol. I found out that the slide catch has actually snapped in half. Although I still fail to see how it would move the barrel that much since there is still a bar to lock it in place. Plus, the problems persisted before the catch snapped. In general, would a straight barrel from a 1911 (with the bushing if I can find a compatible one) be a more reasonable way of fixing the jam?

Having a barrel bushing won't do anything in regards to barrel movement. All it would do, is prevent the muzzle from tilting down.... which it shouldn't do anyways. If you get a good bull barrel, it won't tilt down anyways, so looking at a straight barrel solution isn't necessary. Or, just go with an ILLusion Kinetics non tilting barrel. Then you wouldn't have to worry about tilting issues at all.

Originally Posted by e-luder

What is weird is it is functioning as it should. The trigger mech functions well without the beaver tail engaged. But when pressed down, the trigger weight doubles or the amount of pressure needed to break the hammer is increased ten folds when the beavertail is pressed down. I've tried bending the leaf spring alloted for the beavertail safety to increase the room for it to expand but it didn't do much since I think the pressure is coming from the pivot point (where the thumb safety locks it) and not the actual springed portion of the beavertail.

I've noticed the the middle "leaf" is being pressed down too much by the beaver tail and is causing the increase in trigger weight. I've bended the middle spring as well but it began impeding its functionality so I bended it back.

Also when the beavertail is pressed down, the gun drops it's power output by nearly 60fps. it's going from 265 with the beavertail unpressed and then drops to 210fps when it is pressed. So the beavertail is also impeding the hammer's ability to strike the valve knocker properly somehow. Granted I shouldn't be able to pull the trigger without the beavertail being pressed but it seems to be a common issue with most hi-caps that I've come into terms with. Plus all my internals as noted above needs replacing.

Any possible diagnosis?

Where are you bending the spring? I've seen a lot of people screw up their leaf springs by bending them at the wrong place. Most people just try bending the prongs while holding the base. Doing this will cause the prong to bend at the base of the weakest point - in this case, it bends at base of each prong - where it splits off from the body. This is the WRONG bend point, and creates all kinds of wack issues. The proper spot to bend it, is where it's bent from the factory. All of the prongs should run straight from the body. Use a needle nose plier to bend it where the factory has bent it.