[MaciekA]

Originally Posted by EscapisT

It feels a lot more solid now, and there's less vibration resonating through the gun when firing... The "clonking" feeling when firing is definitely coming from the gearbox... It isn't necessarily bad.. Everything functions normally. It's very subtle, but I can basically feel all the moving parts in the gearbox through the pistol grip (stock) and I don't feel it as much in other people's guns.

I think it might be gearbox cycle slightly over-spinning when I let go of the trigger from the residual electricity still in the circuit. It just doesn't "cut" smoothly...
I guess that's what AB mosfets are for?

This is all good data.

This is starting to sound more and more like a tiny bit of reversal after a shot happens. Perhaps you're getting a little bit of overspin followed by the gears reversing on the bevel until they hit an AR tooth. You mention below that you have the SHS/KA 13:1 set, so I'm not sure how likely this is since the reversal wouldn't have to go very far to catch a tooth.

I wish I could show you my teammate's G&P I have in my workspace here this week, I'm guessing you'd recognize the "clonk" right away and this would put you at ease.

Internally, stock parts are the GB shell, the trigger+switch assembly, tappet+nozzle, cylinder+head and the motor. Everything else is custom.


Also, I just did some reading and suspect having a non-ported cylinder in combination with a short inner barrel might cause problems. Apparently because the compression is more gradual on a non-ported cylinder, the BB might be exiting the barrel before the piston reaches the end of the cylinder, resulting in a loss of compression and the piston accelerating slightly before hitting the cylinder head. I think this might be a contributing factor to the vibration when firing.

There are some tables you can look up somewhere on the net that give you a good match between barrel lengths and cylinder types. Make sure to double check your matching with some calculation, since tightbore barrels can throw the volume matching off.

I'm running KA 13:1 gears and the stock motor.... Perhaps if I got a torque motor I'd have a sharper "cut off" and less overspin? Or maybe I should just make a youtube video and see what you guys think I should do.

A video would be helpful.

With 13:1 gears, especially if you're using LiPos for your power source, you generally want to be combining them with a high torque motor. It will give you far better trigger response anyway. Make sure to get a neo motor.

As far as AB MOSFETs go, they're very nice and will stop your motor in its tracks immediately, but you have to balance that against expected motor wear.