Quote:
Originally Posted by CJay
Not using full auto lol. I wouldn't care bout braking in full cos really it doesn't make any real difference. I'm using the chip on a gun rate at 350 and also on another shooting at 510. Same overspin in both with ab disabled. Might just switch to usin a large type nimh 9.6 4800. Probs be easier on the temp side of things. Anyway the ab I doubt alone is responsible because the active brake won't affect the magnets. Wears ur brushes faster but that's it really. I'm actually fryin either te transfer node or the magnets with overheating. Brushes are easy to swap or but brushes are fine on full rebuild of the motor. No discolouring o the parts that count but the resistance to turning is lower so defo the magnets losing polarity.
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Sounds like you know your stuff quite well (probably better than me), but if you are causing that much heat you will damage the commutator and the windings will eventually burn off as well. It short, your motor will soon be toast!
You are basically running your motor at more than its rated horse power (if we were talking about larger motors). Heat generated is proportional to the square of the additional power you are generating. Thus things get out of hand rather quickly when dealing with massive overloads of electric motors.
Severe overheat can often be connect directly to undervoltage/voltage sags. As voltage lowers, the motor draws more amps (current) this produces more heat. I am puzzled as to how these mosfets cause these heat problems and am wondering if they experience / cause voltage sags that cause amperage draw to spike. Considering the battery you are using it is more likely that you are overdriving it a bit too much. . . But then, why can you use everything but the mosfet and not overheat motors?? . . .
experts, please help . I am just a DIY'er