I shimmed my new helicals last night... took over 4 hours... It was my first time so don't make fun of me!
Anyway, there is pretty much no lateral play, and the gears spin like 5-7 revolutions freely with the gearbox screwed tight.... The things is, when it's all assembled, those things are LOUD... way louder than normal... No grinding though... Teeth are completely contacting eachother.
I just got back from the skirmish today, and people where telling me how loud the gears were.... Surprisingly enough, I didn't get any problems, jams or lockups.
I spoke to a gundoc there who asked me how i shimmed them. I followed the guide, shimmed the spur as low as possible to clear the bearings and irregularities (if any) on the inner gearbox surface. Then, I shimmed the sector as low as possible but making sure it doesnt rub the top of the spur or cutoff lever... lastly, the bevel, as instructed.
He told me all the gears are supposed to be as centered as possible in the gearbox, not as low (to the left) as possible (for the spur and sector).
I looked everywhere for a proper guide on shimming helicals specifically. There are some threads, but none are very specific. All the guides for straight cut gears say to shim the spur and sector as low as possible. And ive skimmed throught ALOT of guides.
Your insights are greatly appreciated!
-Adam.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderCactus
Well if your bevel gear is crammed against the motor, it's going to make a lot of noise.
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+1
Quote:
Originally Posted by HKGhost
Shim Bevel gear first. Raise the motor so the pinion gear is in the middle of the bevel gear, then shim the bevel gear so it's high enough to make as much contact with the pinion gear. Then shim the others as normal. Try and shim everything so the teethes makes as much contact with each other as possible. Most screeching noises come from the pinion or bevel gear.
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+2
Of all the popular shimming articles, guides and threads I only saw 2 of ~15 that actually mention starting with the bevel gear, not the spur. (Excluding this one ^
)
I restarted, but from the bevel this time and shimmed according to its height and my gun is as quiet as a mouse fart compared to before. AND my motor doesn't heat up one bit like before, AND my rate of fire skyrocketed.
I inserted my bevel, attached the motor cage with the motor inside, and tried different shims on the "top" of the bevel gear. The 0.2 worked best. What's weird is most people say that they try to keep their bevels as low as possible, like the spur gear, which IMO is totally stupid. It's pretty much forcing the pinion and bevel together... after a full skirmish like that, I was surpised to see NOT ONE BIT of wear on the pinion or bevel and believe me, they were TIGHTLY shimmed together.
+1 for king arms gears.
Like the man with the minigun says in the video. The pinion/motor is the only gear that has ONE fixed position... Logically, it's imperative that you start with the bevel and work your way from there.
I feel this is a large issue with online airsoft-tech databases; When searching for shimming guides, 90% say to start with the spur and work out from there.... which couldnt be more wrong.
They don't even MENTION this specific method for the bevel particularly.
This whole start with the bevel gear should have it's own sticky thread and smeared all over the online airsoft world, for the good of our guns, pride and money.
Heres how i did it
http://www.airsoft-barracks.com/foru...howtopic=24099
A good video.
YouTube - ‪Airsoft Minigun V2 V3 Gearbox Shimming Different Technique‬‏