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Old May 13th, 2011, 09:22   #2
m102404
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Toronto
* SAFETY NOTE *
1. Assume every gun is loaded
2. ALWAYS point the muzzle in a safe direction
3. ALWAYS keep the trigger clear until you're ready to shoot (primarily your finger...but tools/clothing/rags/slings/etc...too)
4. See that the gun is safe...or confirm that it is in the condition that you want it to be in (this may mean clearing the gun, disconnecting batteries, removing magazines/boxmags/gas/etc...)
5. ALWAYS wear protective gear (i.e. ballistic glasses, etc...)


"I pulled the trigger and nothing happened"
1. Be more specific about "nothing"
- did the motor try to turn (may make a thunk sound or you may feel it in the grip try to start)
- did the gun cycle, but no BBs came out
- did the mechbox partially cycle...but didn't complete it's firing cycle

2. Depending on the above...the root issue may be a number of things
- your battery may not have a sufficient charge to cycle the mechbox
-- your battery may not be "good" any more...and even if it appears to hold a charge, it may not be good enough really
* You do not need BBs or a magazine to test this...see SAFETY NOTE...use a "known good" battery that is fully charged...put the AEG in full auto...pull the trigger fully to the rear for a second.

- your fuse may be blown
* check your fuse holder and inspect the fuse. Most blown fuse will have some visual indicator that it's busted (and if you're looking at a burned/broken fuse and still can't tell if it's any good...you shouldn't be using air). Thermal fuses (resetting or not) may not have visible signs that it's tripped....but they'll be really, really freaking hot right after they've tripped and need to be cool to the touch before you're good to try again.

- your motor might be mis-adjusted or worn out enough it cannot cycle the mechbox anymore
-- Motor too high
* Motors will tend to jam if they're screwed in too far up into the mechbox...back the motor adjustment screw off a half turn at a time. NOTE. If it was working yesterday....and not working now...the motor probably hasn't screwed itself in spontaneously (they tend to unscrew though sometimes with use). But if you just rebuilt your gun and changed gear sets, motors, grips, etc....you may need to set your motor height
-- Weak motor
* If you take the motor out of the grip and hook it back up to the wires, pull the trigger and motor spins....it does NOT necessarily mean that the motor is good. I DOES mean that the motor is receiving electricity when the trigger completes the circuit.
* The simplest thing is to try a Known Good motor...either a new one...or one that's working just fine in another AEG.

- there's a problem in your wiring
-- electrical connectors can become worn/loose...they may work, then not work as they heat up/vibrate/get shaken around.
-- ALL the wires in your mechbox should be continuous, shielded and not pinched. Nicked, cut, pinched wiring has to go.
-- Connections have to be either made with a good, solid connector (DEANs...or at a minimum a tight fitting Tamiya)...and all connections to wire must be soldered (i.e. wire to switch...wire to motor connector...wire to battery connector...wire to fuse holder...etc).
-- The number of connections should be minimized.
-- Any spade connections (i.e. a motor terminal connection) must be tight and have as much contact area as possible
-- all connections must be insulated (i.e. shrink wrap)
-- the wires you use should be of sufficient quality such that they do not add substantial resistance to the electrical circuit (ok...dumb it down for Joe-average....if in doubt use good quality 16-18AEG copper solid strand wire)

Last edited by m102404; May 13th, 2011 at 10:01..
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