Quote:
Originally Posted by ILLusion
I couldn't say for certain, but I would guess it has to do with the different location/distance and angle-of-engagement of the hammer to the sear in the TM vs WA/RS. While TM generally does a decent job of replicating the external outlook of real world guns, they are notorious for designing internals their own way to keep the product unique and maintain product patent integrity.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RacingManiac
No idea, however I much prefer the pull on the TM for some reason vs the WA. I have 1 1911 and 1 2011 of WA and 2 of each for TM and all have aftermarket sear/hammer/trigger componentry(very similar, wire-cut steel parts, may or may not be the same "shop"). And I can't for the life of me to get them to feel the same clean break as on the TM. There always seems to be more "creep" in the WA.
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I'm sure you guys have modified the TM hammer hook to achieve a shorter trigger pull. How short did you get it down to? (I guess I'll find out at TAC11
) Obviously the shorter it is, the more probable it'll go full auto with zero control, especially with the amount of play in the TM hammer assembly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RacingManiac
I don't see any real drawback. Maybe real long term you might have wear issue since for TM's stock "pot metal" part much of the hardness is from that chrome color plating, and doing this mod will essentially remove that coating partially, and this part in my case is in contact with the much harder steel sear. But the forces we are dealing with is not great and the contact point is small...
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The drawback I experienced is the possibly of the disconnector slipping down upon a trigger pull, due to the slope created against the back of the sear. Having the right leaf prong aggressively bent forward can fix this, but personally I like to have the trigger pull as light as possible.