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vondnik · March 13th, 2005, 17:33

NO metal bodies or aftermarkets parts are needed or neccessary only TM stock parts and a help from Canadian tire.

Alright I've grown tired of everyone stating that the only thing to get rid of barrel wobble is to upgrade to a metal body or add a one piece outer barrel.
Ok well the gun i used in the how-to guide has a HURRICANE metal body and the stock tm RIS front section. The wobble deviation is at least 10 degres on each side. More than anought to fuck up the hopup system.

You will need a few tools and supplies to do this and have to know how to dissasemble the front section of your gun. If your not to inclined to do it well you can either send the gun to me or ask someone else that is willing to try it out to do it for you. I usualy charge around 30$(for stock TM) or 40$ ( aftermarket metal bodies or front sections) to do this mod. If the gun has to be shipped well then the cost is all yours.

The guilty one...

Now lets go over what you need to make this little mod. A trip to canadian tire will be needed unless your basement looks like mine...

Power tools:
A drill of some sort. I use a press drill but a hand drill will work the same
A belt sander or dremel tool

Hand tools
a vice
a centering punch ( a nail and a hammer will do) or centering drill
A drill bit (use the correct size for the threads you are going to use)
8 set screws (headless pressure screws)
A tap
A larger drill bit ( size is irrelevent)

Exemple : I use 10-32 unf set screws so I use a no 21 drill bit and a 10-32 unf tap. The personnel at canadian tire or Home depot will help you select what you need.

As of now i will be using the info given in the exemple as reference for drill size and what not.

Ok now take your front section appart until you reach these two parts. Basicaly the froward assy with the front sight and the chamber block.

WHEN DRILLING ALWAYS USE A VICE TO HOLD YOUR WORK PART

Ok first using the no 21 drill you need to oversize the two holes that are already present on the top of the chamber block.

The hole at the front is inline with the one on the bottom and can be drilled thruw in one operation if you can keep your drill inline

Next step you have to turn your part 90 degrees in your vise to drill some side holes. To center it your can use the mold line that is usualy present in that area. it does provide a good location. Locate the hole about center with the start of the taper and the little "ear". Use your center punch or mail to mark your location tap it lightly with the hammer so the drill has something to guide it when it starts working. If you don't do this your drill will go in any direction and won't do a good job specialy since your in a round area.

Then you can either drill thruw or repete the same process for the other side.

The modified part will now look like this:

Now using the tap and pilers(or tapping handle) make threads in all the holes you just drilled. I got lasy and did not want to go looking for my tapping handle so i just use a good old set of pliers. One important thing is that you have to try to start you threading tap as strait as possible.

Now using the a lager diameter drill bit and your hands clean all burrs from the outside of the holes. Apply only light pressure as the metal is soft and the drill will bite in the material easely. You can also use a dremel with a sphere bit to clean the inside

Finished part should look like this:

Ok now half the work is done.... Time to start working on that front sight section

IMPORTANT: DO NOT DRILL OUT THE TWO UPPER HOLES PRESENT ON THIS PART AS THEY SERVE TO ALING THE FRONT SIGHT WITH THE REST OF THE GUN

If those threads are damaged then you will need to repair then first by using a slitly larger screw than the one used at the moment. You must still be able to use the slot in the tube part of the outer barrel. PM me if you need more info on this mather

Ok now. Drill 1 hole on each side and one on the bottom using the mold lines to guide you and your center punch(ie nail) to make and dent to guide your drill. The finish part should look like this

Tap and deburr all holes. finished parts should look like this:

Sand down the lenght of the set screws so they become flush with the section they are resting in. This will prevent that the screws become in the way of the accessories to be added to the gun (id ris) it's not a neccessary set but looks mutch cleaner.

Once all screws lenght are adjusted reassemble your gun a usual and put locktite on all screws..including the delta ring damn it

Congrats your done..... now the only movement left in your gun is the flex of the plastic body...now that is the only thing a metal body can indeed fix....

It takes me about 30 minutes on a stock TM gun and 1 hour on a metal bodied gun...

have fun boys and girls....

March 13th, 2005, 17:33	#1
vondnik Ban-Fu Sifu Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Socialist republic of Kebekistan	TM armalite barrel wobble cure NO metal bodies or aftermarkets parts are needed or neccessary only TM stock parts and a help from Canadian tire. Alright I've grown tired of everyone stating that the only thing to get rid of barrel wobble is to upgrade to a metal body or add a one piece outer barrel. Ok well the gun i used in the how-to guide has a HURRICANE metal body and the stock tm RIS front section. The wobble deviation is at least 10 degres on each side. More than anought to fuck up the hopup system. You will need a few tools and supplies to do this and have to know how to dissasemble the front section of your gun. If your not to inclined to do it well you can either send the gun to me or ask someone else that is willing to try it out to do it for you. I usualy charge around 30$(for stock TM) or 40$ ( aftermarket metal bodies or front sections) to do this mod. If the gun has to be shipped well then the cost is all yours. The guilty one... Now lets go over what you need to make this little mod. A trip to canadian tire will be needed unless your basement looks like mine... Power tools: A drill of some sort. I use a press drill but a hand drill will work the same A belt sander or dremel tool Hand tools a vice a centering punch ( a nail and a hammer will do) or centering drill A drill bit (use the correct size for the threads you are going to use) 8 set screws (headless pressure screws) A tap A larger drill bit ( size is irrelevent) Exemple : I use 10-32 unf set screws so I use a no 21 drill bit and a 10-32 unf tap. The personnel at canadian tire or Home depot will help you select what you need. As of now i will be using the info given in the exemple as reference for drill size and what not. Ok now take your front section appart until you reach these two parts. Basicaly the froward assy with the front sight and the chamber block. WHEN DRILLING ALWAYS USE A VICE TO HOLD YOUR WORK PART Ok first using the no 21 drill you need to oversize the two holes that are already present on the top of the chamber block. The hole at the front is inline with the one on the bottom and can be drilled thruw in one operation if you can keep your drill inline Next step you have to turn your part 90 degrees in your vise to drill some side holes. To center it your can use the mold line that is usualy present in that area. it does provide a good location. Locate the hole about center with the start of the taper and the little "ear". Use your center punch or mail to mark your location tap it lightly with the hammer so the drill has something to guide it when it starts working. If you don't do this your drill will go in any direction and won't do a good job specialy since your in a round area. Then you can either drill thruw or repete the same process for the other side. The modified part will now look like this: Now using the tap and pilers(or tapping handle) make threads in all the holes you just drilled. I got lasy and did not want to go looking for my tapping handle so i just use a good old set of pliers. One important thing is that you have to try to start you threading tap as strait as possible. Now using the a lager diameter drill bit and your hands clean all burrs from the outside of the holes. Apply only light pressure as the metal is soft and the drill will bite in the material easely. You can also use a dremel with a sphere bit to clean the inside Finished part should look like this: Ok now half the work is done.... Time to start working on that front sight section IMPORTANT: DO NOT DRILL OUT THE TWO UPPER HOLES PRESENT ON THIS PART AS THEY SERVE TO ALING THE FRONT SIGHT WITH THE REST OF THE GUN If those threads are damaged then you will need to repair then first by using a slitly larger screw than the one used at the moment. You must still be able to use the slot in the tube part of the outer barrel. PM me if you need more info on this mather Ok now. Drill 1 hole on each side and one on the bottom using the mold lines to guide you and your center punch(ie nail) to make and dent to guide your drill. The finish part should look like this Tap and deburr all holes. finished parts should look like this: Sand down the lenght of the set screws so they become flush with the section they are resting in. This will prevent that the screws become in the way of the accessories to be added to the gun (id ris) it's not a neccessary set but looks mutch cleaner. Once all screws lenght are adjusted reassemble your gun a usual and put locktite on all screws..including the delta ring damn it Congrats your done..... now the only movement left in your gun is the flex of the plastic body...now that is the only thing a metal body can indeed fix.... It takes me about 30 minutes on a stock TM gun and 1 hour on a metal bodied gun... have fun boys and girls.... __________________ Vondnik, team Bad Karma, PQAC Murphy's second rule: Nothing is impossible for the man who does not have to do it himself.