Airsoft Canada - View Single Post - FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

ILLusion · November 30th, 2009, 11:25

TROUBLESHOOTING

Q1: When my slide cycles the next shot, the chambered BB rolls out the barrel. How can I fix this?
A1: Do one or both of the following:

Turn up your hop up
Clean excess lube off your hop up rubber

The force of your slide returning to battery is knocking the next round out of location. A loose or slippery hop up won't hold it in place.

Q2: I changed my grip, and now, my gun is firing in uncontrollable full auto and/or my hammer does not stay cocked back. OR, when I fire, the nub on the blowback unit gets caught on the hammer. The only way I can move the slide forward again is if I manually depress the hammer that's caught under the slide. What happened and how do I fix this?
A2a: This is the most common mistake made by a beginner disassembling their pistol. If the lower half of the pistol was disassembled such that the leaf spring became unseated, it's possible that the leaf spring was not installed properly. Re-seat it. It is difficult to see it when the beavertail (grip) safety is in the way, but all prongs should be "behind" the associated component and pushing it "forward" (towards the muzzle.) See this photo for a properly seated leaf spring: http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...2/original.jpg
A2b: If your receiver and/or grip are worn such that they push apart from each other (the hammer spring pushes the two apart), then this can cause the sear to raise just high enough such that the middle prong of the leaf spring will slip under the sear and get caught on a lip on the bottom of the sear. Correct this by re-assembling the grip and receiver so that they sit closer together. MAKE SURE the leaf spring is NOT in place when you push the two parts together or you may damage the sear prong! If it is not possible to tighten the frame and grip together, use a small hobby file to remove the lip from the bottom of the sear. This will prevent the leaf spring's prong from getting caught on the bottom of the sear. With the lip gone, the prong should be able to slide back to it's proper place on the sear when required to do so. However, this method is not ideal, as it does not solve the root of the problem, and you may experience high gas consumption issues. If the receiver is away from the grip, then by extension, the slide/nozzle is further away from the magazine, and thus, a poor seal exists there.

Q3: When I fire my metal upgraded pistol (slide and barrel are metal), the slide seems to get stuck when it tries to return forward. When it gets stuck like this, the easiest way I can get the slide to return forward is if I hit the muzzle of the barrel inwards. What's happening and how do I fix it?
A3: Over time and use, a traditional tilting barrel eventually chews through the lugs in the slide that are used to engage the chamber and pull it back. Once the lugs are worn down and the slide can no longer reliably grab & pull the barrel back, the slide ends up getting caught on the top of the chamber, which dramatically increases the damage to the slide.

At this point, there are three solutions, but only two of them are reliable:

The first solution is to get a replacement slide. If you are using a clone and you get a same replacement slide, this problem may happen again. If you get any other brand of slide, it may not play well with your barrel, AND/OR if you are able to get the slide to cycle the pistol properly, the barrel may again, chew up the lugs in the slide. This is not certain, but based on the lack of information in this area, and based on the prices of a quality aftermarket slide, it's best not to guess with this one.
The second solution, is a two piece outer barrel system, pre-loaded with a spring - it's a custom modification that I figured out a couple of years ago before any other solutions were on the market. If you dig around enough, you may find some tutorials or pictures online of how such a setup looks. Basically, it is a two-piece barrel system, with a spring attached to the inner barrel and levers it against the chamber. The outer barrel just covers the assembly. The result, is that the natural state state of the outer barrel, is now to pull backwards, rather than rest in a neutral state. By doing so, the barrel & chamber does not rely on the slide's lugs to pull it back anymore, instead, the spring does this for the slide and the end result is a barrel that (on its own power) follows the slide back naturally. The downside to this, is that the slide's forward lug now bears the force of returning the barrel to battery AND pushing the spring forward at the same time. If this lug is still in perfect shape, then this shouldn't be an issue, but it WILL take more damage and break down faster. It shouldn't be too much worse, since the spring should only be light weight. However, if that lug is destroyed, then your only reliable option is the third solution...
The third solution is ILLusion Kinetics fixed barrel, which offloads all contact that the slide makes with the barrel/chamber, which increases the slide life to an infinite level. Even a completely internally destroyed slide can function properly with this barrel set. The barrel does not move, it does not tilt or rock. It's stationary. The chamber top is lowered a slight bit, so that the slide just glides over the chamber cover. This type of barrel works with any brand of slide, regardless of its health.

Q4: There's a small problem with my trigger. When I rack the slide and don't slam it back into battery, the first pull of the trigger doesn't disconnect the hammer. I then have to pull the trigger again before the hammer disconnects. So basically every now and then when I shoot or rack the slide softly, I need to pull the trigger twice before the hammer is released. There is a click on the first trigger pull but nothing happens. What's the solution?
A4: Your first trigger press jiggles the lever in to place, which is why nothing happens, but on the second press, it functions.
If you're using an adjustable trigger stirrup, then back off the adjustment a bit. This will give more room for the disconnect lever to slip behind the sear.
If you're not using adjustable stirrup, then you just need to file a small ramp behind the sear to allow the trigger disconnect lever to slip behind the sear.

November 30th, 2009, 11:25	#4
ILLusion GBB Whisperer Trader rating Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Toronto	TROUBLESHOOTING *Q1:* When my slide cycles the next shot, the chambered BB rolls out the barrel. How can I fix this? A1: Do one or both of the following: Turn up your hop up Clean excess lube off your hop up rubber The force of your slide returning to battery is knocking the next round out of location. A loose or slippery hop up won't hold it in place. *Q2:* I changed my grip, and now, my gun is firing in uncontrollable full auto and/or my hammer does not stay cocked back. *OR,* when I fire, the nub on the blowback unit gets caught on the hammer. The only way I can move the slide forward again is if I manually depress the hammer that's caught under the slide. What happened and how do I fix this? A2a: This is the most common mistake made by a beginner disassembling their pistol. If the lower half of the pistol was disassembled such that the leaf spring became unseated, it's possible that the leaf spring was not installed properly. Re-seat it. It is difficult to see it when the beavertail (grip) safety is in the way, but all prongs should be "behind" the associated component and pushing it "forward" (towards the muzzle.) See this photo for a properly seated leaf spring: http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...2/original.jpg A2b: If your receiver and/or grip are worn such that they push apart from each other (the hammer spring pushes the two apart), then this can cause the sear to raise just high enough such that the middle prong of the leaf spring will slip under the sear and get caught on a lip on the bottom of the sear. Correct this by re-assembling the grip and receiver so that they sit closer together. MAKE SURE the leaf spring is NOT in place when you push the two parts together or you may damage the sear prong! If it is not possible to tighten the frame and grip together, use a small hobby file to remove the lip from the bottom of the sear. This will prevent the leaf spring's prong from getting caught on the bottom of the sear. With the lip gone, the prong should be able to slide back to it's proper place on the sear when required to do so. However, this method is not ideal, as it does not solve the root of the problem, and you may experience high gas consumption issues. If the receiver is away from the grip, then by extension, the slide/nozzle is further away from the magazine, and thus, a poor seal exists there. *Q3:* When I fire my metal upgraded pistol (slide and barrel are metal), the slide seems to get stuck when it tries to return forward. When it gets stuck like this, the easiest way I can get the slide to return forward is if I hit the muzzle of the barrel inwards. What's happening and how do I fix it? A3: Over time and use, a traditional tilting barrel eventually chews through the lugs in the slide that are used to engage the chamber and pull it back. Once the lugs are worn down and the slide can no longer reliably grab & pull the barrel back, the slide ends up getting caught on the top of the chamber, which dramatically increases the damage to the slide. At this point, there are three solutions, but only two of them are reliable: The first solution is to get a replacement slide. If you are using a clone and you get a same replacement slide, this problem may happen again. If you get any other brand of slide, it may not play well with your barrel, AND/OR if you are able to get the slide to cycle the pistol properly, the barrel may again, chew up the lugs in the slide. This is not certain, but based on the lack of information in this area, and based on the prices of a quality aftermarket slide, it's best not to guess with this one. The second solution, is a two piece outer barrel system, pre-loaded with a spring - it's a custom modification that I figured out a couple of years ago before any other solutions were on the market. If you dig around enough, you may find some tutorials or pictures online of how such a setup looks. Basically, it is a two-piece barrel system, with a spring attached to the inner barrel and levers it against the chamber. The outer barrel just covers the assembly. The result, is that the natural state state of the outer barrel, is now to pull backwards, rather than rest in a neutral state. By doing so, the barrel & chamber does not rely on the slide's lugs to pull it back anymore, instead, the spring does this for the slide and the end result is a barrel that (on its own power) follows the slide back naturally. The downside to this, is that the slide's forward lug now bears the force of returning the barrel to battery AND pushing the spring forward at the same time. If this lug is still in perfect shape, then this shouldn't be an issue, but it WILL take more damage and break down faster. It shouldn't be too much worse, since the spring should only be light weight. However, if that lug is destroyed, then your only reliable option is the third solution... The third solution is ILLusion Kinetics fixed barrel, which offloads all contact that the slide makes with the barrel/chamber, which increases the slide life to an infinite level. Even a completely internally destroyed slide can function properly with this barrel set. The barrel does not move, it does not tilt or rock. It's stationary. The chamber top is lowered a slight bit, so that the slide just glides over the chamber cover. This type of barrel works with any brand of slide, regardless of its health. *Q4:* There's a small problem with my trigger. When I rack the slide and don't slam it back into battery, the first pull of the trigger doesn't disconnect the hammer. I then have to pull the trigger again before the hammer disconnects. So basically every now and then when I shoot or rack the slide softly, I need to pull the trigger twice before the hammer is released. There is a click on the first trigger pull but nothing happens. What's the solution? A4: Your first trigger press jiggles the lever in to place, which is why nothing happens, but on the second press, it functions. If you're using an adjustable trigger stirrup, then back off the adjustment a bit. This will give more room for the disconnect lever to slip behind the sear. If you're not using adjustable stirrup, then you just need to file a small ramp behind the sear to allow the trigger disconnect lever to slip behind the sear. __________________ *Advanced Airsoft Armaments and Enhancements* Quick to the gun, sure of your grip. Quick to the threat, sure of your shot. Diligentia, Vis, Celeritas Accuracy, Power, Speed Last edited by ILLusion; December 12th, 2011 at 17:45..