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-   -   Polishing metal GBB Slides? (https://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=98472)

MP5HERO February 11th, 2010 12:59

Polishing metal GBB Slides?
 
hey guys i was wondering if anyone knows if/how to polish the slide for my kjw gbb meu 1911. i want a silver look without buying a new barrel. can it be done and if so how would i go about doing it?

RacingManiac February 11th, 2010 13:05

You can polish any metal slide, the question is how long it'll stay that way. Easiest method is sandblast the slide to get rid of the paint and get it to a uniformly coarse finish, and start from ~200 grit sandpaper and work your way up to ~1000 or more, in 200-400 grit increment. Then finish with some kind of metal polish. If its like aluminum it should not be too bad with oxidizing(might get a bit dull after a while). But if its pot metal than it can get grey or black overtime as it oxidizes. You can use automotive clearcoat after polishing to seal the finish.

Slono February 12th, 2010 01:56

Why would starting at 200 be better than starting at say, 400? I'm curious, I know its the way to go, but wouldn't you also be removing more metal causing more play between the slide and the barrel with the higher number of sandings?

Shirley February 12th, 2010 01:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slono (Post 1162846)
Why would starting at 200 be better than starting at say, 400? I'm curious, I know its the way to go, but wouldn't you also be removing more metal causing more play between the slide and the barrel with the higher number of sandings?

Going lower removes the scratches. You don't sand inside the slide anyways.

Slono February 12th, 2010 02:03

The OP said he didn't want to get a new barrel... so I thought he wanted to sand the barrel as well as the slide to create a complete stainless look from a uniform black look.

mills0 February 12th, 2010 03:39

Strelok polished the Slide on his 1911 to he point where we could use it as a signal mirror lol. I don't remember what he all used for sandpaper, But I do remember that he used Brass polish and it turned out great, hopefully he reads it and can give you a better anwser.

Soulfly February 12th, 2010 08:07

Don't sand blast it.. Maybe use some paint stripper.. Sand blasting digs into the metal too much, and you'll find yourself sanding for WAAY too long.

RacingManiac February 12th, 2010 08:54

It depends on how well the original part is though. If I am refinishing a nicely machined slide I'd start from something finer. But if the part has thick paint on shitty metal, I'd definitely sand blast it because it takes forever to remove the paint and start from a uniform finish.

safx February 12th, 2010 09:51

DON'T DO IT!!

Sure the slide will look nice
when you're done, maybe...
assuming you put in the many
hours of finger numbing time.

I've done lots of slides and
after every job, I wished I'd
just bought a polished slide
instead.

If a slide costs $80–120 and
polishing takes anywhere
from 4–12hrs, what is your
time worth man! Fagetboutid!

Gunny_McSmith February 12th, 2010 19:40

Anybody ever thought about plating them?...... Will save lots of time and money! (i know you need special chemicals to plate potmetal, (a copper plating then after that you can plate anything over the copper coat...:P)) but you could always give it to a local platingshop and i'm sure they have all the correct chemicals! :P
Thats what I'm going to do once i get my hicapa.... Plate the safety lever, magcatch..... I'll update my postif the plating was successfull!

Soulfly February 12th, 2010 20:06

Have any of you guys used Aircraft paint stripper to rip paint off?

I've used that stuff on multiple Valve covers and it takes off paint no problem!

I would try that stuff, But be careful with it!

MikeMcNair February 13th, 2010 18:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by safx (Post 1162933)
DON'T DO IT!!
...............
and
polishing takes anywhere
from 4–12hrs,
what is your
time worth man! Fagetboutid!

sorry to contradict you, but you are wrong.

i did this, in 17 minutes two nights ago.

from this...........

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_2211.jpg

to this..............

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_2217.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_2218.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_2219.jpg

i started with a "sand paper foam block" from home depot to get the paint off, and since it is foam, it gets the nooks and crannies well.

then, 600 grit, in the same direction (as changing directions will provide unfavorable swirls)

then 1000 grit, again, in one direction (back and forth if you must)

then, a fast wipe down with fine steel wool, and BAM, done. i can see myself in it.

now, if you really what a FULL MIRROR shine, use 2000 grit and wetsand it with WD-40 as a water replacement.

i have polished MANY different things, and my process is fast, and VERY effective.


see post # 135 here.... http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthr...t=82506&page=9

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_0743.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_0742.jpg

from a post in the link in my sig, posted July 8th 2009.....


MikeMcNair February 13th, 2010 18:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by Soulfly (Post 1163342)
Have any of you guys used Aircraft paint stripper to rip paint off?

I've used that stuff on multiple Valve covers and it takes off paint no problem!

I would try that stuff, But be careful with it!


i keep Air Craft Stripper (ACS) in my tool chest at all times, and have yet to use it on the airsoft slides or barrels due to the fact that they are treated differently than say, a valve cover, or a car wheel. it should work, but my post above works so fast, i see no need to bring out the stinky stuff. ACS is awesome, don't get me wrong, but it is for larger, more serious projects in my opinion. i did that here.....

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...present002.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...present005.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_1098.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_1097.jpg

more mildly polished stuff, i didnt go mirror on these....

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_0696.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_2107.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_2106.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_1071.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_0697.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_0698.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ottscar006.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ir/photo16.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...mymanifold.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...bum/img003.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...m/parks022.jpg

and, when you are done with the steel wool, tie a wire to it, and light it on fire, then spin..........

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...Weekend022.jpg


(sorry for all the pics, but i am a polishing whore, and will polish just about anything i can get my hands on....

Cilantro February 13th, 2010 22:53

The main factors to remember when polishing GBB slides are cost (will you be buying a new slide? If so, might as well get a polished one from the start), time (how much free time do you have, remember that quality takes time and skill), and ability (if you don't feel confident in sanding, dipping, maintaining your slide, either just buy one, or practice on a plinker). Another thing to remember is that most metal slides are not made of stainless steel, and so will dull and oxidize when the paint is stripped and they are polished. This can be solved with regular maintenance and oiling (sealant, too, although I haven't tried any yet...), but it can still be a hassle if you don't like maintenance.

MikeMcNair February 13th, 2010 23:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cilantro (Post 1164117)
This can be solved with regular maintenance and oiling .

i recommend NUVITE or SPEEDY metal polishes for this.


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