400+ FPS JG ver. 2 Mechbox Survivability?
 

A lot of JGs are coming out of the factory shooting 400+ FPS stock . It's commonly spoken of that v2 mechbox failure is only inevitable over time when shooting that hot after some time unless you have a reinforced mechbox or perhaps sorbo pads.

Anybody have experiences with the 2008 and newer JG guns having mechbox cracking on you? I just bought an Mp5 that is shooting 425 FPS out of the box and it's making me paranoid everytime I put the thing on full auto. I usually put it away after a few games and switch to my heavily upgraded G36 with a v3 I don't worry about so much.

I know some of their more updated lines like the 416 have bearing spring guides, etc. but I haven't heard anything about their mechboxes being reinforced to take the punishment they equip them with at stock nowadays.

Well if you maintain it properly without shooting full auto, than it will last.
Sorbo pads will work and will help you alot. Get a mosfet, and also what battery are you running it with?
If it's making you paranoid, downgrade and buy a lower power spring.

I had one crack running the stock spring and a Lipo after about 1000-1500 rounds. I was pretty hard on it in full auto and it dry fired more than I'd like due to problems it had feeding. Good mechbox but I would replace the cylinder head and piston head with sorbo and the piston to something without metal teeth.

Best to have a piston with less than half metal teeth. Better to ruin your piston than buying a new set of gears.

Neither of those will affect whether your mechbox will break. How much you shoot will.

Well, technically speaking, the faster the gun is turning over the quicker parts will fail. Also, the same gun firing at 1600rpm is more likely to fail than firing at 800 rpm, within the same number of shots fired due to the speed the mechbox is moving. If the gun fails, it might not just lock, but strip a gear or piston.

I'm running a 7.4v lipo (wouldn't put an 11.1v in there) but I purposely bought this gun for my backup and "gun that I do not under any circumstances try to open or touch" since I know that will only cause me grief and more money everytime I start to go modding or upgrading on a stock gun. I am running low caps and I fire very sparingly as my natural gameplay style so I hope it will last for awhile.

Yes but he was asking about mechbox cracking, not gears or pistons.

Shouldn't you be downgrading this AEG so it's safe to use on the field anyway? Isn't this entire discussion moot?

+1

Just throw in a S100 spring, and your good to go

I have the 2008 version and the first thing I did was put a M110 spring in it and changed the piston and piston head to a stock TM and the anti reversal latch. The spring in it looked like it could be off the running gear of a Soviet Tank.

Our fps limits are different than yours.

Even if your limit is like 450, doesn't mean your FPS needs to be that high, if your worried about the life of your gun, switch to a softer spring, i personally don't really see a downside to low FPS

The spring isn't the issue at all. If I were to open the mechbox, I'd just install a sorbo head or nozzle pad to absorb the impact. Opening the mechbox of any stock gun is opening a can of worms. I've worked on dozens of mechboxes and the addage of "if it ain't broken don't fix it" is more true in airsoft than many other things.

If your gun is shooting amazingly well and legal, why drop it? A downside to lower FPS is that you must use lower weight BBs = less range, less flight stability, less brush penetration. I use mostly 0.25s and am moving to 0.28s.

Hmmm, true.

I guess i find that my G36 with an S90 spring shooting just over 300 FPS is much more accurate W/.25s then my stock G&G M4.


That being said, opening a stock box (especially on clones) is always an adventure