I f^&*ed up! Barrel problem
 

Ok so i got a 555mm barrel for my g-spec and i cut it for it would fit in my barrel/silencer. after i got the peice off i was left with a bunch of burs in and on the end of the barrel so i had the greatest idea ever to use a drill bit to clean it up *stupid stupid stupid* !!!!!!! So i now come to you guys with the problem. how would i polish these scratches inside the barrel up?

The barrel is a laylax 6.03 tb

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/f...s/DSCF0954.jpg

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/f...s/DSCF0951.jpg

Sorry those are the best pics i could get..

Thanks is advanced for any help.

Cut it again to remove the bad section and then use a small deburring tool to clean up the end.

When u cut u can also use a pipe cutter, it'll take a little longer but it leaves u with a relatively clean cut

I'm going to dissent on the pipe cutter. Everyone I've seen "moves" material instead of cutting it. You wind up with a wider wave of material end the end of the cut. Maybe not a big deal if you're running water through a pipe but compressing the ID means you could have a jam and widening the OD means it could bind on the outer costmetic sections.

Chop saw sort of tool is always best.

Wouldn't the pipe cutter be better in terms of keeping the barrel's original shape? Since it goes around and around, instead of a direct cut on its side. Used one to cut my krink barrel down, worked out just fine. Then a dremel to make the crown.

I just use a hacksaw then clean up the end with a reloading brass deburring tool. I put the barrel in the drill, poor man's lathe, and deburr both the inside and outside, then use a ratail diamond file to smooth it.

So, I also say cut off an inch or so (whatever it bad) and start over again. Luckily since you are running a suppressor and can go with any length of inner barrel, you are gonna come out golden even with your fuck up.

Pipe cutters tend to compress and push material. Maybe if you put a form inside the barrel to prevent collapse (the material will take the path of least resistance) you might get away with it but with Dremels etc. being so common it's so much easier to chop it.

chop saw +1

hacksaw +1 used before, works just fine, not the only method that will work as been mentioned.

Using the hacksaw works quite well, even on stainless steel barrels. Will work even better if you have the HANDLE for the hacksaw and didn't just use the blade itself. Still haven't gotten around to buying one yet. Lol

Get the handle baked into a cake, that'll make it through.

Nothing wrong with a hacksaw, and it costs a lot less than a dremel (it lets you make mistakes more slowly too).

I thought the end should be beveled (edit:sorry I used the wrong word-flared) like this no?

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/6039/dsc00412js0.jpg

Thats not flared it's beveled. I thing that's what the hoped for result of the drill bit was going to be.

For flared think blunderbuss, tuba, etc. except both ways from the squashed material.

The only way you'll pull of a bevel like that is a lathe, and I think you could pull off a nice job of cutting the barrel with one also.

100% agree, I have both a chop saw and a pipe cutter and I used a pipe cutter last time (3 weeks ago), when I was done I had a 4mm hole at the end of my barrel and another 30 mins of filing to fix it, my chop saw would have cut it nice ONCE.

Thanks guys i bought some very fine wet sand paper too so maybe il try that on the fucked piece. yeah the end of the barrel is spose to look like that but i dident want to try to do that with what i have. I do have a lathe at my disposal so maybe il take it to school on monday..