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-   -   motors question. (https://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=163423)

Chromey March 22nd, 2014 13:29

motors question.
 
My Fully modded G@G M4 needs a new motor, WHat would you suggest?

Im not a full auto shooter, Ive only use full auto 1 time in the last 6 games.

Im not ready too use or switch too Lipo, So 9.6 batts only.

The M4 shoots 400+/- 5fps

I was thinking a OEM replacement Lonex, But im looking for advice.

pestobanana March 22nd, 2014 13:43

For your setup a cheaper SHS or VS neo motor will do the trick, unless you are looking for high RoF.

ThunderCactus March 22nd, 2014 14:33

If you're not running lipo, you're not taking advantage of high torque motors anyway. It takes amperage to produce torque, and mini NiMH batts just don't have any

lurkingknight March 22nd, 2014 14:44

shs motors are not very power efficient, a mini battery or small lipo may not be enough to keep it running for a game.

Chromey March 22nd, 2014 15:30

The stock motor from my cyma mp5 pulls this setup perfect, so I think the cheap lonex motor should work?

Zack The Ripper March 22nd, 2014 15:31

Lonex A1 Titan motor FTW. I used one of these in a high speed CQB build. In conjunction with a Lonex high speed gear set, an M90 spring, Teflon coated silver wiring, wired to Deans, and using a 7.4V LiPo I was getting 32 RPS. I never used it on auto mainly because it would be a waste of ammo. However, with that kind of cycling and trigger response I was getting PTW-like trigger response on semi.

I know you want to stick with the NiMH batteries, buuuut... LiPo FTW. They are just.. better.

ThunderCactus March 22nd, 2014 16:29

Like I said, there's no point using a torque motor if you don't have the amperage to run it

pestobanana March 22nd, 2014 16:33

It's not very efficient but I guess it works. My friend was trying to pull a m130 with a vfc stock motor on a 9.6.... Switching to a vfc neo motor helped a lot.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus (Post 1877777)
Like I said, there's no point using a torque motor if you don't have the amperage to run it


Chromey March 29th, 2014 08:39

Lonex A5 Works Great.
Thanks for the help.

phloudernow October 23rd, 2014 03:39

Was thinking of doing this, Now I've done this type of build before but with a Spectre or AWS for active breaking and cycle completion, im doing a new build but cant get my hands on either one of those FETS so im just sticking to the standard switch, was wondering if u have had any issues with preengagement of the piston? I've heard people warning about using high torque motors with a weak spring, I am trying to go for a cqb build similar to what yours is with a m90 or m100.

let me know thanks!



Quote:

Originally Posted by Zack The Ripper (Post 1877767)
Lonex A1 Titan motor FTW. I used one of these in a high speed CQB build. In conjunction with a Lonex high speed gear set, an M90 spring, Teflon coated silver wiring, wired to Deans, and using a 7.4V LiPo I was getting 32 RPS. I never used it on auto mainly because it would be a waste of ammo. However, with that kind of cycling and trigger response I was getting PTW-like trigger response on semi.

I know you want to stick with the NiMH batteries, buuuut... LiPo FTW. They are just.. better.


ThunderCactus October 23rd, 2014 17:17

Shouldn't be any problems.
I think people are confusing high toque with high speed.
An actual High torque motor has a LOW top speed, and lots of TORQUE, helped out by neodymium magnets. A combination of the magnets and the fact it doesn't reach a very high top speed means it will stop the cycle very quickly.

A high speed/torque motor, like those in PTWs and basically any motor with less than 15TPA, is actually a high SPEED motor, that happens to have a lot of torque (because it has neodymium magnets). It'll stop slower than a true high torque motor simply because it's spinning faster.

Your real problem is going to be from ferrite magnet motors. These can also be high speed or high torque, but have the least stopping power. In setups with a lot of momentum (heavy ass gears and a light spring) they tend to overcycle like crazy on big batteries. My 249 gets all of it's battery efficiency from having a ferrite motor and heavy gears, well without active braking it overcycles about 6 rounds before it finally stops lol

pestobanana October 23rd, 2014 18:35

Pre-engagement is not caused by speed it is caused by compression jams and misfeeding. I have a gun that runs in excess of 50 RPS using a M100.


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