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-   -   KWA G36c (https://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=126791)

jomor June 30th, 2011 21:56

KWA G36c
 
I have a Cansoft KWA G36c. The guns works great, accurate and straight! I want to replace the semi clear plastic body. Can I use another brands G36 body or must it be a KWA body?

jomor July 3rd, 2011 22:16

g36
 
wow 40 people looking and not piece of advice.....Please help me...

SuperCriollo July 3rd, 2011 22:28

I'm pretty sure any TM compatible body would work. However I'm not 100% sure. Why dont you try looking at KWA's tech support forums ? They have a great ammount of info in there.

Basic-Wedge July 3rd, 2011 22:40

Well, I'm a relatively new to G36 ownership, but I'll kick in my two cents worth.

I would imagine you'd need KWA body parts. While some add on pieces will be universally interchangeable, the actual body might not. The receiver of my Ares G36, for example, will have unique characteristics (related to the simulated blow-back function) that would make it unusable by a KWA owner. Perhaps it's more doable with some of the other brands... The other thing is, I can't recall seeing anybody selling just replacement receivers.

Have you considered going with paint? When I got my Ares, it had been painted tan by the previous owner. I wanted the more usual look of all black, so I sprayed it with Krylon Fussion matte camo paint. Because I took the additional step of spraying it with a couple of coats of Krylon matte clear coat, it came out looking superb! In your case, you'd be spraying over a partly clear surface, so you'd have to also spray the inside of the receiver. Trust me, if you take your time, and follow up with clear coat, it'll work out fine, and be cheaper and easier than trying to source a new receiver.

icaris July 3rd, 2011 23:05

Dont use gloss clearcoat and use primer if you paint it.

medhatboy July 3rd, 2011 23:16

All I did with my KWA G36 was paint it with Krylon Camo flat black, both inside the body (have to remove the mechbox) and the out side.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...hotos00048.jpg

Also added a K kit.

EscapisT July 4th, 2011 01:07

You should paint it if you can isolate the piece you want to paint (if you're new to painting). If you're comfortable with it, get the gearbox out, and everything off of the clear parts and bake the paint on.


Quote:

Originally Posted by EscapisT (Post 1483304)
Before you paint, rub the whole thing down with windex or anything with ammonia in it to get rid of grease. If there is any grease on it (even the simple touch of your finger), it is likely to make it look like a bad job... When the grease reacts with the paint, it'll give an ugly orange peel texture rather than a nice smooth coat.

Orange peel:
http://www.vintagebus.com/howto/colo...nge-peel-2.jpg


If there aren't any glossy parts, then you shouldn't need to even touch sandpaper if you're really careful with the grease AND you are a patient painter.

Multiple, thin, light coats takes longer but believe me, it beats a run that you'll have to sand and redo which is a MASSIVE PITA.

Also, since the gun is going to be in your sweaty soldier hands and be put through a make-shift war, you should consider baking on your paint.

Baking your paint basically quadruples its bond to the surface, and it's exponentially more resistant to wear from rubbing.... If you know what you're doing, you can take the gun apart and paint only the externals you want to paint, and paint them individually. I suggest taking an old metal baking pan, covering it with wax paper, and resting the part(s) on it. Spray, and immediately throw it in your oven, being careful not to get anything to touch the paint and ruin the coat. You want the oven hot, around 250F, and you want them in there for about 20 seconds for every thin coat you spray.

If you decide not to take it apart for painting, and if you can fit your whole gun in the oven, it should still be ok to bake. You're only heating up the paint and the surface it's bonding to, not the entire part.

Just remember whatever you do, paint patiently, you'll pat yourself on the back for it.

-Adam


jomor July 4th, 2011 23:05

G36
 
Firstly, thank you all for your posts, suggestions and help.

I should have stated the other reason for wanting to switch the body. That reason being the plastic is cracked in about 5 places. the cracks are around the holes for pins and the upper rail. It has seen combat but no abuse so it perplexes me as to why they used cheap materials for the body.


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