Polishing metal GBB Slides?
 

hey guys i was wondering if anyone knows if/how to polish the slide for my kjw gbb meu 1911. i want a silver look without buying a new barrel. can it be done and if so how would i go about doing it?

You can polish any metal slide, the question is how long it'll stay that way. Easiest method is sandblast the slide to get rid of the paint and get it to a uniformly coarse finish, and start from ~200 grit sandpaper and work your way up to ~1000 or more, in 200-400 grit increment. Then finish with some kind of metal polish. If its like aluminum it should not be too bad with oxidizing(might get a bit dull after a while). But if its pot metal than it can get grey or black overtime as it oxidizes. You can use automotive clearcoat after polishing to seal the finish.

Why would starting at 200 be better than starting at say, 400? I'm curious, I know its the way to go, but wouldn't you also be removing more metal causing more play between the slide and the barrel with the higher number of sandings?

Going lower removes the scratches. You don't sand inside the slide anyways.

The OP said he didn't want to get a new barrel... so I thought he wanted to sand the barrel as well as the slide to create a complete stainless look from a uniform black look.

Strelok polished the Slide on his 1911 to he point where we could use it as a signal mirror lol. I don't remember what he all used for sandpaper, But I do remember that he used Brass polish and it turned out great, hopefully he reads it and can give you a better anwser.

Don't sand blast it.. Maybe use some paint stripper.. Sand blasting digs into the metal too much, and you'll find yourself sanding for WAAY too long.

It depends on how well the original part is though. If I am refinishing a nicely machined slide I'd start from something finer. But if the part has thick paint on shitty metal, I'd definitely sand blast it because it takes forever to remove the paint and start from a uniform finish.

DON'T DO IT!!

Sure the slide will look nice
when you're done, maybe...
assuming you put in the many
hours of finger numbing time.

I've done lots of slides and
after every job, I wished I'd
just bought a polished slide
instead.

If a slide costs $80–120 and
polishing takes anywhere
from 4–12hrs, what is your
time worth man! Fagetboutid!

Anybody ever thought about plating them?...... Will save lots of time and money! (i know you need special chemicals to plate potmetal, (a copper plating then after that you can plate anything over the copper coat...:P)) but you could always give it to a local platingshop and i'm sure they have all the correct chemicals! :P
Thats what I'm going to do once i get my hicapa.... Plate the safety lever, magcatch..... I'll update my postif the plating was successfull!

Have any of you guys used Aircraft paint stripper to rip paint off?

I've used that stuff on multiple Valve covers and it takes off paint no problem!

I would try that stuff, But be careful with it!

sorry to contradict you, but you are wrong.

i did this, in 17 minutes two nights ago.

from this...........

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_2211.jpg

to this..............

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_2217.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_2218.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_2219.jpg

i started with a "sand paper foam block" from home depot to get the paint off, and since it is foam, it gets the nooks and crannies well.

then, 600 grit, in the same direction (as changing directions will provide unfavorable swirls)

then 1000 grit, again, in one direction (back and forth if you must)

then, a fast wipe down with fine steel wool, and BAM, done. i can see myself in it.

now, if you really what a FULL MIRROR shine, use 2000 grit and wetsand it with WD-40 as a water replacement.

i have polished MANY different things, and my process is fast, and VERY effective.


see post # 135 here.... http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthr...t=82506&page=9

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_0743.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_0742.jpg

from a post in the link in my sig, posted July 8th 2009.....

i keep Air Craft Stripper (ACS) in my tool chest at all times, and have yet to use it on the airsoft slides or barrels due to the fact that they are treated differently than say, a valve cover, or a car wheel. it should work, but my post above works so fast, i see no need to bring out the stinky stuff. ACS is awesome, don't get me wrong, but it is for larger, more serious projects in my opinion. i did that here.....

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...present002.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...present005.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_1098.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_1097.jpg

more mildly polished stuff, i didnt go mirror on these....

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_0696.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_2107.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_2106.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_1071.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_0697.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_0698.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ottscar006.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ir/photo16.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...mymanifold.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...bum/img003.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...m/parks022.jpg

and, when you are done with the steel wool, tie a wire to it, and light it on fire, then spin..........

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...Weekend022.jpg


(sorry for all the pics, but i am a polishing whore, and will polish just about anything i can get my hands on....

The main factors to remember when polishing GBB slides are cost (will you be buying a new slide? If so, might as well get a polished one from the start), time (how much free time do you have, remember that quality takes time and skill), and ability (if you don't feel confident in sanding, dipping, maintaining your slide, either just buy one, or practice on a plinker). Another thing to remember is that most metal slides are not made of stainless steel, and so will dull and oxidize when the paint is stripped and they are polished. This can be solved with regular maintenance and oiling (sealant, too, although I haven't tried any yet...), but it can still be a hassle if you don't like maintenance.

i recommend NUVITE or SPEEDY metal polishes for this.

lol the reason i dont wanna buy another one is i thought if i just bought a black threaded one i could have a few different looks and styles to play around with. polish this one and maybe some of the other parts when i buy replacements. lol thats why i bought a 1911 variant. for the customizationability. lol wow thats a big word. i shoulda prolly gotten a hi capa but i like the meu better.

here is another one i did, took me all of 15 minutes, i was going for a shiny yet "brished" look, so i wanted texture on the polished part........

before (stock photo)

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...WaltherPPS.JPG

after........

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_2242.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/DSCN2003.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/DSCN2002.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/DSCN2004.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/DSCN2005.jpg

How long do these stay shiny mike?

they stay shiny forever, unless something hard scratches them. the biggest problem is finger prints. they are a PITA. here is the finished product of the barrel posted above. keep in mind, this is my real steel WALTHER PPS, but any metal you will find in airsoft will polish the same way....

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_2249.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/DSCN2007.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/DSCN2008.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_2250.jpg

and just throwing this out there:

i am going to begin gunsmithing, so should you require any work done, i would be glad to do it for you for a reasonable price. it will keep me busy.

Mmmmm love that sexy chrome.

I wonder though what exact services you can offer since once we send a gun out of country it can't be let back in so you could only do work on non prohib parts.

Seriously though that's NICE and I've got some ideas in my head. That chrome would actually be a nice accent piece on a race pistol.

just to clarify, i polished that barrel, not chromed it. BUT, i can do both to just about anything.

chroming would take a few (2) weeks, where polishing would be a few days, since chroming would be sent out, and polishing is done "in house"

but, i would be glad to polish anything you send my way. i enjoy it.

When you polish aluminum doesn't it oxidize? I'm thinking of eventually polishing my frame to make a Kimber Eclipse look, but that look needs to have everything super shiny. Like "aaaahh my eyes" shiny...

Strip it completely of paint until you get the bare silver metal underneath and then use some chrome polish, the kind that you use on chrome wheels for your car, it's a light blue colour and stinks like hell, usually found in the automotive section of CT

The shine won't be permanent as oxidization will occur, but you can try using a clear spray paint to seal it, or just polish it every time it starts to turn.

*edit* just scrolled up and saw Mike's work, just send it to him to do it lol :)

Steel on a real pistol is not the same as monkey metal alloy(or some mix of crap metal) on an airsoft gun...

They will polish mostly the same though. Just how long it'll last...

it may, but if protected, it will not. i use a polish called SPEEDY that works wonders, and i have NEVER had a metal oxidize on me. also, clear coat is definitely a good call, but tend to stay away from it as it NEVER looks good, since it yellows on metals.

very true, BUT all metals in both types of guns can be polished, and will hold a shine for a long time. i have polished just about everything you can think of for airsoft and real steel and had ZERO issues. below are pics ofthe aluminum barrel from my KSC G26, made of that moneky metal you speak of ;)

longevity is based on a few things:

How it was polished
How it is maintained
How it is used

if you polish something, and it falls out of your holster in a skirmish and into the mud, or if you do not treat it with a proper metal polish, or if it was not fully polished leaving pitting and tiny scratches behind, these will no doubt take away from the polished parts longevity.

when i polish things, even if i keep them looking "brushed" i make sure they are super smooth. the "brushed" look is hard, cause you need to fully polish the part, THEN take away the super shine to get a proper brushed look. this eliminates pits left, or score marks from the metal. both of which can collect moisture and wreak havoc on the finish you are shooting for.

as with anything, there is a proper process which will yield proper results. if you dont do it right the first time, you have to do it over again. pretty simple concept.

EDIT: i am pulling pix from above to show you the difference in finishes from the "brushed look" and the "fully polished" look.

I CHOSE TO REPOST THESE PIX DUE TO THE FACT THAT THEY ARE THE "MONKEY METAL" FROM MY KSC G26, THIS IS THE BARREL THAT CAME WITH THE GUN, AND ARE NOT PIX OF THE HIGH GRADE STEEL THAT COMES ON/IN REAL STEEL. ALSO, THESE ARE LOW RES PICs TAKEN WITH MY IPHONE, WHICH IS GOOD TO SEE IN MY OPINION DUE TO THE FACT THAT IT IS NOT A SUPER DUPER CAMERA THAT MAKES EVERYTHING LOOK GOOD. THESE ARE PLAIN JANE PIX, WITH A PLAIN JANE CAMERA, THAT ARE OF PLAIN JANE METALS....


BRUSHED

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_2106.jpg

FULLY POLISHED

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_0743.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/IMG_0742.jpg

It depends on the alloy.

The primary content of die-cast metals is zinc, which is highly reactive to oxygen and the oils/acids in our fingers. This is why most "polished" die-cast metals turns a very dull dark grey after a couple of months and retains fingerprints easily.

Mike is in the US, so you'll need to consider what it is that you're sending to him if it has to cross borders twice.

very good points on both ends brian. thanks :thumbup:

I know this thread is mostly about polishing GBB metal slides but I was wondering if a similar process could be applied to dubious metal bodies (Element AK Body or an agm mp-40 metal body)

Polishing metal GBB Slides?
 

Thread Revival inbound!

So I wanted to strip the coating of my HiCapa Frame for a silver look and went away and sandblasted it

Of course it has now a pitted look
I am still debating if I keep that look (I kinda like it) and put a clear coat or something, or if I sand it for a more polished/brushed look; I will decide on that when I get my new slide

In the meantime, I do need to polish the rails and everywhere there's movement (hammer housing, trigger safety contact points, etc);

Anyone have suggestions about a course of action and tools/products that I should use for this?

Thanks!

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/07/u3anyvyt.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/07/uze7ypem.jpg

Wet sand the moving parts with 1000 grit paper to start and move to 2000 grit.

Soak the paper in a bucket of water for an hour prior.

Keep paper real wet and if you can sand this in the bucket of water even better.

With 2000 grit you can get it set up for a mirror finish with a quick buff using "rim polish" from Canadian Tire/Part Source

If you're going for a mirror finish, I just polished a TM 5-7 outer barrel to a mirror finish using a Dremel. It turned out really nice, just get the Dremel polishing kit from home depot. It comes with everything you will need (polishing wheels, polish, and sanding tools). Beats doing it by hand anyways, especially with something of that size.

I already have some polishing compound (green) and some soft coton-like wheels, I guess this is what you're referring to?

I gave it a (real) quick try and wasn't impressed with the results - I take it I need to sand the pieces a bit beforehand;

But a question using the Dremel to polish: A what speed do you use the polishing wheels? It didn't look like slow speed was doing anything and higher speeds were just disintegrating the wheels;

Maybe I can give it another try, or I'll just go with hand sanding as Trev suggested;

I might just do the "mechanical" parts (slide contact and what not) and leave the frame as is

Thanks

I have the basic Dremel that uses one speed. I had the same problem initially of the finish not being too impressive (kind of flat). Just keep polishing and it will begin to turn to a mirror finish, it takes more time than you think. The polish should start to turn black, this is how you know its working. You will need to look at it under good light after a few rounds of polishing to make sure you didn't miss any spots. Also make sure you change your cotton wheels periodically because they get dirty and don't work too well. Its definitely time consuming but it looks great when its all done.

If you do polish that frame, you will need a clear coat of some kind.
The TM pot metal, unlike aluminium, will tarnish to a darkish grey very quickly even after polishing:( Polishing from a sand blasted state will take a fair amount of work.
Slightly different metal, but for my P229 slide after sand blasting, I wet sanded by hand with 400, 600, 1000 & finally 2000 grit followed by Mother's Aluminium Polish. Still gets a little tarnished, but a small buff with some polish takes care of that.
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/picture...pictureid=5550
Did the same process on my Franken capa slide.
http://airsoftcanada.com/picture.php...pictureid=4866

I just coated my barrel in 100% silicone oil, it hasn't shown any signs of tarnishing yet. I guess you wouldn't want to coat your slide in silicone oil though lol

Every pistol in the classifieds with a home polished slide is an abomination.

Probably because they only use 80-100 grit sandpaper dry LOL!