Tanio Koba / KJW M4 GBBR Basic Information and FAQ
 

This thread is for information on the bits, pieces, and customization options of the KJ Works Gas blowback M4.

Seeing as I have an AGM M4 myself, and access to multitudes of AGM/WA internals and externals, I will dedicate this thread to seeing what IS, and what ISN'T compatible with the KJW guns.

Obviously the internals are different, so I will be attempting to customize the externals.

Stay tuned!!

Jeff

Components:

Upper Receiver: Metal
Lower Receiver: Transparent Plastic

Carry Handle: Metal
Charge Handle: Metal
Trigger: Metal
Trigger Guard: Metal
Internals: Metal
Buffer Tube: Metal
Dust Cover: Metal

Notes & Comments:

Stock: The Buffer tube appears to be Mil-Spec, but I don't have any precise measuring tools on hand to verify. It fits a Magpul MOE PTS stock perfectly.

Dust Cover: Actually stays closed, hurrah!

Foregrip: Fits MOE foregrip without issues.

Fits the Element MOE handguard perfectly. Next I will be attempting to install a knockoff Daniel Defense RAS.

The Socom DD lite rails go on, no problem.

The Allan key bolt that holds the grip on is a couple sizes bigger than on my AGM. Had to borrow the right size, but unfortunately it wasn't marked so I can't comment on the proper size.

I installed a real steel Magpul MOE grip. She fits perfectly!

The threads that the bolt to hold the grip on are cut right into the plastic of the receiver, so make sure you don't overtighten and strip those threads.

Did anyone work out what inner barrels work? and AEG outers work as well right? How about the threads on the lower? I heart it'll only accept KJW receiver extensions?

When I had mine apart I couldnt figure out how to seperate the inner/outer barrel. I compared it to an AEG outer barrel, and while there were some minor differences, they were very, very close.

I didn't want to open the package to actually test fit an AEG barrel in there, but next time I have a loose one on my hands I am definately going to try it out.

Jeff

Inner AEG barrels need to be modded ,and is a little tricky ;) ,I screwed two inners before I got a system figured out.

The threads on the lower are totally different than most, for the stock tube,because they use a brass inner buffer tube and a M4 style outer that slides over.

The AEG outer barrels just need a small notch cut and a small hole drilled and taped for a set screw.

Hey Jeff,the inner and outer are held together with a small set screw,located on the top center, just in front of the flange on the outer barrel.

If you get an AEG outer for the KJ,make sure it's the deeper chambered one or the 1 cm adjustable one.Or ;) you can drill it deeper like I did,on one of mine.

Ares charging handle latch does not fit - it is much too small overall

Star trigger guard does not fit - the unit is about 1 mm too wide and the holes are too small for the KJ rolled pin to fit. modification may help, but the gaps and sharp edges left by fitting detract from the look. I'm using the standard trigger guard after trying to muscle it in (broke part of the receiver).

Ares tango down m4/m16 grip for GBB - does fit with minor modification - remove <1 mm of material from the inside of the grip to make it slip on easier. simple procedure to sand or dremel down (less than a minute with the dremel). bonus - no need to fill in a spot for the safety spring, the top is thick enough all-round.

G&P low profile gas block - fits with modification. it was tight sliding it onto the stock barrel and the KJ gas tube is about 1.5 to 2 mm larger than a standard aeg. Sand the inner portion of the block to fit on the barrel, and I elected to shave the gas tube down. alternatively you could drill out the hole in the gas block with an appropriate sized bit and a vice to hold it. some significant sanding of the corners was necessary to fit it inside a Madbull DD omega rail (issue with Madbull/G&p, not a fault of KJ)

if I could go back in time i would order this gas block as it fits the pins of the standard m4 barrel. my current set-up has the gas block being held be a grub screw and friction, its not going anywhere but it doesn't look perfect.

Aftermarket Parts
 

Hello All,
Can this thread also be updated for any aftermarket/replacement parts that are available for the KJW M4?


e.g. Cradle Velocity Reducer:
http://cradleairsoft.com/Cradle_Airs...or_KJW_M4.html

O ring piston
http://cradleairsoft.com/Cradle_Airs...or_KJW_M4.html

So there is no word on any way to get a full-style stock on these eh?

I'm looking into a new front end, stock and longer inner barrel...see how accurate and what kind of distances I can get out of it.

I'm sure it IS possible... but I can't get the damn buffer tube out. Tried an AR tool on it and it just won't budge. I'm not sure if it doesn't actually unscrew as real steel/WA/AGM does, or if mine is just super torqued on there.

Has anyone had any luck with this?

Jeff

My buffer tube is also sealed on real good, i tried reaming it off but it wont budge.
I noticed there was a screw on the bottom of the buffer tube that looks like it locks it in place but I'm not sure.

If you want a full stock then I would say just go for it, I don't see why the buffer tube would be permanent, considering its suppose to be as close to RS there is.

IMO since there aren't any different barrel lengths available from Tanio Koba the stock barrel length goes well with a collapsible stock.

I run a Carbine Crane stock, had to apply a couple strips of electrical tape to the buffer tube so the stock would be secure without wobble..


..I was told that KJW will be revealing accessories for the M4 and possibly some other things, since GBB has gotten more popular theres no question that they need to release some parts (considering most parts need to be custom fitted) or they don't actually fit.

It does not unscrew like RS.There is a large cap at the end of the outer buffer tube that needs to be unscrewed.One of mine was loctited on so good it started to unthread from the receiver instead.There is also a set screw on the outer buffer tube that needs to be removed to seperate the outer from the brass inner buffer tube.

If you look in your manual,exploded drawing, you will see what I'm trying to say. ;)The set screw is located in the area where the stock locking pin engages the outer buffer tube.

I have a question about inner barrel. What type (and what length) of tight bore 6.03mm inner barrel can be fitted with this gun? Any recommendation would be helpful.

EDIT: And some information about R.I.S. fitting would be helpful too. Thanks.

"Metal" is too vague. What material is it made out of? There are MANY plastics that are stronger than the pot metals frequently seen in airsoft toys.

Man, no kidding. Anyone that has a lifted truck has seen the "plastic" lift blocks that can hold a 1,500lb truck body on while its being thrashed around...and not wear down. But for some reason my gear box couldnt stay together for more then 5,000 shots:cool:


I am also really interested in what the options for mod-less inner barrels are... Anyone??

Mod-less TBB are available for this gun. They have standard and custom lengths available.

You can contact Travis Humble at contact@cradleairsoftsoft.com. Here is a note from him, Barrels are still available and can be custom made to any length you specify. Cost is $45 + shipping. US Domestic is $5.75 and International is $14.00.

You can also contact cansoft.biz AKA on ASC KGBB he has mod-less EdGI TBB available. PM him, he seems pretty knowledgeable on it.

Thank you azulikit for the info. This is very helpful :)

Information on replacing a clear receiver for a metal one
 

Hello:

I am going to assist anyone that is considering replacing the Clear Plastic Lower Receiver with a Metal Lower Receiver. The following is information on the problems that I experienced when converting the KJW M4 to a full metal gun.

Firstly, if you don’t know anything about GBBR or their real steel counterparts when it comes to the trigger mechanism, DON'T ATTEMPT TO DO IT YOURSELF. There are many small pieces and springs in the trigger mechanism that if you disassemble (which is very easy to do), you may either loose the piece, or forget how it goes together.

If you do know how to work with the trigger mechanism, then you'll do just fine transferring it over to the new metal receiver.

The issue came about when trying to remove the buffer tube from the clear receiver. There is a steel ring that holds the buffer tube securely into the lower receiver. This piece could not be removed without damaging the plastic receiver. It is made by the forces of God himself to make sure that your buffer tube never leaves the Clear Lower Receiver. Absolutely every attempt was made to try to simply unscrew the brass buffer tube from this steel ring with it turning 1/4 of a turn. All sorts of tools were used with no success. Even using chemistry (heating and cooling the parts for expansion and reduction of their overall size) did not work. The chemistry method was used because of the suspected use of Red Locktight (which was confirmed later on). I was hoping to crack the glue. That didn't happen.

So, with me frustrated out of my mind I was left with only 1 option. To cut it out of the receiver. THIS WILL RUIN YOUR PLASTIC RECEIVER. But, who cares. You now have a metal one. Why do you need the clear plastic receiver?

Once you have the steel ring removed from your Clear Lower Receiver (the brass buffer tube is still attached), the issue remains of unscrewing this steel ring. There is only 1 option (Which is very easy to do). You must use a Dremmel with a cutting tool to CAREFULLY grind down 1 of the notches. You will know that you've gone far enough because the steel ring actually snaps open. That’s right, the reason you have such a difficult time unscrewing the brass buffer tube is because the steel ring is pressed onto the buffer tube.

Now that you finally have just the brass buffer tube in your hands its time to screw it in to the Metal Lower Receiver.YAY. But, this will most definitely take some muscle to do. KJW has painted over the threading so you need to just keep working the buffer tube in to the receiver so the paint comes loose and gives way.

At this point I must let you know that you must screw it in all the way until the greyish silvery piece that actually holds the buffer piston (I think that’s what its called), inside the buffer tube. If you do not screw it to that part, when you cock your weapon, it will only come back half way. The issue was that the Bolt Carrier got stuck on this piece. Which meant that I had to unscrew the brass buffer tube and push down on that greyish silvery piece so the bolt could move fully forward.

So, now you should have a full metal KJW M4 in your arsenal.

Hope this helps when you get your metal receiver.



Kyle

EDIT* DON'T MESSAGE ME ON WHERE I GOT MY METAL RECEIVER

I would just like to add that short of dremeling your way through that steel nut, there are other methods if, for some odd reason, you DO want to keep your plastic lower receiver or just want to know how to take it off without destroying the gun in the process.

I followed a few of the steps outlined above, namely the manual torquing, and heating up methods. Neither worked so I figured it might be loctite too, let it soak in solvents for a bit but that didn't work. As a last resort, I used some liquid wrench and put some on the edge of the threads; let it work its magic. After about 20 minutes, my brother and I took one wrench each, put one wrench on the steel nut and another wrench around the bronze buffer tube inner part, with a rag wrapped around it to protect from scratching it (I still managed to scratch mine a bit though, be warned). We torqued in opposite directions and the nut came off after a lot of elbow grease.

What probably happened is that the cheaper metal of the buffer tube and metal of the steel nut galvanized after they assembled the gun, liquid wrench is a good bet for anyone that wants to do this, plus you can just wipe it up if it hasn't worked; no damage or anything.

Hope that helps.

Great running thread over at Arnie's on this. I love my KJW m4.

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forum...660&start=1660


A member over there (and here too I think) runs a nice online shop with some products that he made for the KJW m4, have a look. He is working on PMags for it.

http://cradleairsoft.com/Cradle_Airs...or_KJW_M4.html



Sorry if this is a repost, been a while since i visited here as I have not played too much airsoft, and I've been busy with real steel stuff.

Just wondering if this is the lock ring you are talking about?I have not had the pleasure of a clear lower yet, but I'll assume it's the same as this one.

http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/p...b/DSC00808.jpg[/IMG]

The lock ring on the outer buffer tube, if this is the ring your referring to,it is part of the KJ outer buffer tube. It has no use but to make it look like the RS counter part.The outer buffer slides over the inner brass tube and is held together with the receiver extension cap(part #52).And there is a set screw About 1 inch from the back as you can see in the photo.It keeps the outer from turning on the inner.

If you unscrew the extension cap (#52) and remove the set screw the outer slides off easily .

No no, the parts described are for the inner brass tube and the nut embedded in the receiver that the brass tube threads onto. That one is a monster.

:oops: I knew there must have been something different about the two receivers. But even on the metal lower they used a glue,loctite,something that didn't want to let go either.

I'm checking in to see if "cansoft" or cradle knows about the stock and front set compatability... but does anyone know if i should order an AEG stock, or the WA GBBR stock... It doesnt seem as if a AEG will work, because they use a straight through screw to attach..

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/king-arms...ock-black.html

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/gandp-wa-...series-bk.html

Kody, how'd you do yours?

Well the first thing ,is that no other buffer tubes will fit the KJ, They use a two part buffer tube. That is their own design (a little weird I think).

If you really want to put that stock on,then you will have to make and mod something so you can do it,until more accessories start to hit the market.

I wanted a Magpul UBR on mine, everybody said it couldn't be done :rolleyes: so that was my incentive to find a way.I had to drill and tap one hole to hold the UBR on ,using the screw that came with the UBR.And I found a way to leave the inner brass buffer tube intact.

The full stock you are interested in could be done but would need a little more head scratching.lol It's about 3 inchs longer that the KJ inner buffer tube.Would need to fab a piece to extend the inner buffer tube in length and girth. Then the stock could be held on with the proper screw.The other problem is how the front of the stock would mate up with the receiver end plate,(part # 51) :banghead:

Do you know anyone that could make new buffer tubes? I would order a couple ;).

I'm using a real steel Magpul MOE stock on mine, mil-spec.

Jeff

Goddamn, This is going to be frustrating to get this done. but a GBB SR-25 will be worth it when its together.

Out of the ASC combined knowledge, can we find what one would need to more or less make a kjw m4 into an SR-25?


Edit: By the way, I could fab a couple trial buffer tubes up...How would we want them to be different?

The SR-25 is in a different calibre, how are you planning to make it?

For the purposes of Airsoft almost all guns use the same 6mm bb; so calibre will not matter.

The receiver is a different shape to accommodate the larger rounds. The closest things that can be made with the KJW M4 are the Mk 12, SAM-R and SDM-R.

Literally not possible. The only parts the same on an SR25 and an AR15 are the ones that aren't unique: stock, grip, front kit (well, not really, but in airsoft, yeah. Difference is barrel bore on the RS. For airsoft, they are the same kits), and accessories. Both the receiver, bolt and magazine are all entirely different. "Converting" an AR15 into an SR25 is not possible.

Wait, I must be missing something. For airsoft, i thought SR-25's were pretty much just an M4 body, with 12" front RIS, and a M16 fixed stock, guess not.

I'm just looking to put a 12" RIS, and fixed stock on. Wondered if people knew what fit. Kody says the front is real steal threaded. As for the fixed stock, no one seems to know. I may try a real steal fixed, or a WA with slight modding to attach it.

What is the threading on the buffer tubes of KJWs? If its real steel threading, than either a real steel or WA stock will work on it.

As far as SR25s go... No sir. In airsoft, there are actual SR25s. I had one. They are gorgeous; definitely not just an M4 body with a big RIS and fixed stock.

Look up pics of the G&P SR25, or the CA25, or G&G GR25. Cool stuff. What you want to make is like a SAM-R, or standard DMR

Thanks, I'll remember that.

The rear buffer tube is 100% unique to the gun, and wont fit without some modification. That much seems confirmed.


What I want to know (i've heard both) is whether the front threads for mounting an RIS are AEG compatable like

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/big-drago...aeg-black.html


or Real Steel, like a Daniel Defence or madbull.

The front is threaded for real steel/DD.

Jeff

Thank you.


I just need to find one now.

Tokyo Model has an adapter for adding a fixed buttstock. At least that what it looks like its for :confused:

whaaat, that does look like what it would be for...I just can figure out where tf thats supposed to thread into. does it replace the buffer tube? or screw into the end of it??

I'm willing to try it. I wonder if it will fit a GBBR, real steel, or AEG fixed...

They also have the inner barrel you might want;
http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=6071

Would an "AR-15 Variant" Real Steel RAS have the same threads as any RS M-series?

http://cgi.ebay.ca/TACTICAL-Free-flo...item4cedaa58aa

I'm picking one of these up if it'll fit :D

That looks like a knock off larue 13.2, which can be had cheaper at ebaybanned.com

Yeah, but are they Real Steel? the whole point of not buying a cheap knock off, is because it has to thread properly.

EDIT: nevermind..it say's "he fits them on ICS/CA/TM AND Real Steel firearms"

The one you linked IS a knock-off. It's written on the eBay page.

For those thinking of getting a different flashider or adding a suppresor; the tip of the barrel, once you manage to get the stock flashhider off, was not threaded on my KJ M4. So it appears that if you want to make those mods you may need a new barrel or locktite the piece on. Personaly not a fan of locktite but that is just me.

That is very odd... mine was threaded in the usual -14mm.

Jeff

mine was not threaded gut the brass piece under in was

note that the stock KJ flashhider has a brass threaded bushing that is separate from the black metal flashhider (its a 2 piece design)

is the tip of the barrel gold/brass coloured? I would think that the worker screwing on the flashhiders would notice something like an unthreaded barrel

I picked up one of these yesterday and a wanted to test it out but the manual doesn't tell me how much propane/green gas it takes to fill the mag, any one know?

Insert it carefully. Hold them both PERFECTLY vertical, then 4-5 seconds. Best to be as quick with the pull-out as possible.

I give mine 8-10 seconds. I figure the gas chamber is twice as large as a pistol mag, so double the time.

Jeff

I hold mine for 10 sec.... Or untill i dont hear gas flowing throughto the mag anymore.

I fill mine until I don't hear the gas anymore.. That usually provides me with about 60 shots @ room temperature.

Thanks for the info I'll try holding it for 10 seconds and see how that go's :infantry:

FYI I've ordered an edgi tbb, upgrade piston and a velocity reducer. I've also ordered the taf buffer extension and a WA fixed stock. I'll post reviews and pictures when installed.

http://www.milsimjunkie.com/2010/02/...signed-by.html

There's a little bit on parts compatibility in this review.

Just in the midst of getting my fixed stock attached...taking a "little" modding to get it on there, but I'll post what I had to do.. fairly simple to repeat. Edgi full length tightbore fit up no problem. Same with the piston head, and velo reducer.


I'm selling one of my AEG's to pay for a bulk order of mags. I want to try using this as a main gun for the warm days. So far i've found retailers that will sell them for 40$ each, free shipping. Any one know anyone in canada that will offer a similar price? I'd rather support them.

Also is it worth it to order 6 or 7 more thermold's at this point? or should we be waiting...

Unfortunately we pay more than that from CAS... where did you find some for so cheap? I will buy them there for myself :P

Jeff

I'd like to know some INTERNAL compatibility with aftermarket/other brands of stuff...

Externals are nice.. but internals are 100% more important.

I agree, internals are more important...luckily though, it seems we can shoot between 350 and 450 as needed, and have an extremly reliable internal setup. Until they come out with some nice after market parts atleast.


And redwolf and ehobby have the mags for 38$ each, and i've found a couple US dealers for 40-45$. Most are out of stock, so we'll see if they ever refill that supply...

So.... does the buffer toube come off, i wanna put on a single point sling mount on.

thanks

So I took whats left of the original gun out to run some rounds through this weekend. Put probably 1000 rounds through in one day (alot when mags are 32, and you have to use the bloody loader..).

Verdict on the edgi 6.01 363mm TBB is 100% thumbs up. I personally have never shot an airsoft M4 with that sort of accuracy, consistancy, and range. That being said, for 90$, there may be better "bang for your buck" barrels coming up (I know Cansoft is looking into making some). Will give some proper accuracy:distance specs when I get access to the warehouse next.


The TAF buffer tube extension was simple, and did what it had to do. My WA fixed stock needed some modification to fit on, but was worth it. That being said, my lower reciever is cracked at the plastic on top of the buffer tube..some epoxy is holding up ,but a metal lower would be much needed...


The O-Ring piston head is a definite necessity. When going to replace the original, (only around 500 shots through) the plastic seal was shaved down on the top. For 30$, and 10 minutes work, seems like a no-brainer.


Still working on the velocity reducer. Will update.


After about 700 rounds, the trigger became solid and wouldnt pull. Popped the rear pin, and for some reason the trigger assembly was stuck, but when you went to safe, it reset. After going through a few times, it worked as normal, and shot for another 300~ rounds with no more issue.

Overall, after the upgrades, i'm massivley impressed for what I thought was never going to be a fieldable gun. I'm waiting for 9 more mags, and I think i'm going to try to field it for the mid temp games this summer.

..Now if only my KJW MEU wasnt such a piece of shit...

Hey guys,

I sold one of these to a customer, and when he received it the receiver was cracked near the buffer tube.

He is getting a replacement lower receiver, but can anyone comment if this could be the source of these other issues with the gun?

I don't want to send him just the receiver and not end up with a working gun...

Thanks for any help!

Jeff

Mine was split right in half at the top of the "O" on the lower receiver that goes over the buffer tube. Cause no issues for me... but I epoxied and clamped, just to keep it together.

That was my case. Is he gassing it up properly? I don't want to sounds like I know more then I do, but mine had the same "issue" when i got it, and I was just not gassing up properly...

I'm with andrew on that one,and he might want to make sure the piston cup is lubed,silicone grease is what they recommend on Arnie's.

Plus the gun is new and tight, and it will take a couple of mags just to get everything seated right. At least my two were like that.

Thanks for the help guys. It might help if I added that once I fired a couple of times, it came to the point where I tried to cock the gun but the cocking handle did not retract all the way back to its normal position. It was jammed. Bolt catch was down too so something was definitely jammed in the cocking tube.

As for the receiver, does anyone know if its easy to install the internals? My fear is once I get my replacement, I am afraid that I won't be able to put everything back.

Anyone know where I can get a replacement valve knocker spring?

When it jammed, did you notice if you could see the black elastic in the ejection port? You shouldn't be able to see it in there. The elastic on mine slipped in between the bolt and the upper receiver which locked up the bolt. That happened when I inserted the bolt carrier group into the receiver without keeping the elastic taught.

I don't remember but I do remember taking it out while inspecting the gun. I'll keep on eye on it. Thanks.

You did take notes of the order they come out and took a few pic,s of the way the springs were in there.;) didn't you. It's fairly simple once you get in there and start putting it back together.

Yeah I will. I learned that the hard way after taking apart my my KSC 19 hammer spring lol Thanks for the advice.

So when they say make sure the O-ring piston head is locktit-ed, do so...Mine came loose and mauled my piston cup. Kept firing though, :cool:

I wouldn't mind getting another bolt assembly as a backup.. Is there somewhere I can order KJW parts? Their site seems to be in construstion indefinitley.

I used blue loctite on mine and it still came loose. I just did it again using a little more loctite this time. I hope she holds.

My KJW/Tanio Koba M4 GBBR
 

I was able to fit:

• Madbull Daniel Defense Omega 7 inch without modification. It was a tight fit. Took 10 minutes to install.
  
• Madbull XM203-S BB Launcher.
  
• King Arms OPS Model 3rd MBS Silencer (230mm)

I have pictures that you can look at too at:http://www.airsoftcanada.com/album.php?albumid=160

The gun came to me with a crack in the lower receiver near the buffer tube on the left side (selector switch). Jeff was kind enough to ship me a new lower receiver replacement. Replacing the receiver was easy and fun. The layout of the springs were not difficult at all and the trigger system consisted of 3 parts. If you need to know the details, PM me and I can help you with that.

The gun itself feels a lot heavier and bad-ass looking than the stock. The King Arms silencer turns out to muffle a bit of the sound, which I am quite amazed with since it is usually just for show and concealing of an extended inner-barrel.

I am still waiting for internals since Jeff is bringing in some cradleairsoft.com products. I am also waiting for the foldable rear and front sights. They will be used when I decide to get an Eotech holographic sight. Is it highly recommend ed to get the lens protector?

A really fun GBBR to play with. I love firing 30 rounds on full auto. Cool-down factor is great but everyone should know that. The launcher itself is alright. It does the job.

Things to add to the gun would be a 3 point sling, flashlight, and rail covers.

Looks nice!

I went for a fixed stock on mine and an acog mounted on carry handle.

Now all I need is for mags to GET IN STOCK ANYWHERE :mad:

What sights work well with the GBB? I had an acog/dot sight but the recoil didn't agree with it and it would shut off after a few shots.

I think want to pick up an acog sight or dot sight (that actually shows up in the sun) with maybe 2x zoom. Any suggestions?

What is everyone rocking for spacers in order to get the ~400fps as desired?

A real rifle sight lol. I had several clones on two different GBBRs and the only sight that stayed and kept a zero was my real EOtech.

Hi guys I own my KJW M4 since October 2009 and believe me it is a reliable gun to start with. It is my first Airsoft gun and still going strong recently my outer barrel has been modified by a friend and pay 40 dollars. The outer barrel was given to me by a friend an AEG CQB outer barrel I bring it to him and modify the barrel and assembled it back. Just to show you how it looks like here it is.http://www.airsoftcanada.com/picture...&pictureid=749 http://www.airsoftcanada.com/picture...&pictureid=748

Looks fantastic!

I really need some friggen' replacement parts... Sent a message to KJ a bit over a week ago with no response...

any help would be appreciated :)

Which parts?

+1 for what the heck spacers are you running for 400?? I spaced out, then my shots went about 100fps...

If I just had a chrono...:rolleyes:



I'm also looking for a piston cup (or whole bolt assembly..).

i guys do you know if i can fit a WA or We lower receiver on a kjw m4

Whole bunch of tiny springs and other spare parts..

KJ FINALLY emailed me back.. and they should be on the way sometime within the next year lol

Absolutely not, both systems are totally different.

So I am still having issues with the cocking of the gun. I am gasing up my magazine. I fire in single shot, it is really weak. If i fire on auto, it fires one shot, and I have to recock. Any ideas?\

UPDATE: Turns out it the piston ring is f***ed. I also noticed damage to my cylinder. Do i need a new one? Is this causing my problems? Thanks.

Yes,you need a new one.I would think that all your gas pressure is slipping past and the bolt is not cycling proper.

You could order the Cradle oring piston instead of a stock replacement piston ring.

Is your return belt damaged or stretched? part#26 I'm just wondering how that would happen to the piston ring unless it was being pulled back too far(all the way out) of the cylinder.Then catching the edge of the cylinder as it goes forward.I'm pretty sure that is what the belt is for to keep that piston from pulling all the way out of the cylinder. (my 2 cents)

I had the same problem. Crade o-ring piston fixed it right up, and actually shot better then stock.


Hey guys, I'm looking to order mags...uncompany is the only one with them in stock right now. I've been hearing some bad rep their way right now. Since it will be a 400$ order, should I wait it out till stock comes in somewhere, or give them a go? Would just wait, but I'd kind of like to game the gun THIS summer..

And whats shipping roughly from Uncompany? I hate that email quote system.

Canadian retailers should have more mags available mid-June, if you can afford to wait :)

Jeff

Thanks guys.

I've been hearing hearing things about replacing it with the stock piston rather than the Cradle piston - vice verser. It feels like there are two options to consider. Is there a reason behind that? I ask because I thought I would be replacing the stock piston but I've stripped it on the sides while trying to place my pliers to remove it.

Also, my first picture shows the cylinder having a piece snapped off. Will I need to replace that too?

Part #26 looks alright. I had issues when I received the gun so I assume it was already damaged in a way where it would create more damages.

yes,order a cylinder also.

Does anyone know if the outer barrel can be shortened or is it all one piece? I noticed that there is a seam under the front sight but that is not for shortenning the barrel. I don't want to mess with it if it is not doable.

KJW \ Tanio Koba has release a new version of the famous GBB-R M4. The new model feature short outer barrel and RIS.

http://www.airsoftnews.fr/wp-content...CQB_1_mark.jpg

http://www.airsoftnews.fr/wp-content...-m4-cqbr-2.jpg

plug from other thread:
the band in my KJW M4 just broke, first I tried a wide rubber band, worked well, the ROF was increased and it cycled properly, probably wouldn't last too long though, and it was too stretchy and cant pull the bolt far enough back to lock on an empty mag, then I found an old inner tube, and after ALOT of trimming, i managed to get it to fit, and seems to work well, for now, not sure how long it will last however

I can get the spare band if you want it Alex :P

this works fine and was free, but i need the piston cups Jeff >:D

BAHAHA! In lieu of sitting twiddling my thumbs waiting for a cradle piston cup to arrive, I SUPERGLUED the cracked piston cup back together... and it works like a dream! lol!
probably not for long, but will last till I get my replacement :P

hi guys, i have had mine for about 2 months now, i was able to put on a Knight's type RIS, D-Boys Troy Style Tactical RIS Foregrip w/ Switch Pouch (with a little mod), a replica eotech, o-ring piston, velocity reduser, and a cheap led light. Here is what it looks like.