KWA G36C dead
 

Hey guys, I got a problem and I have no idea.

Here we go, I got a brand new KWA G36 this week and after changing the connectors to deans and hooking up the battery it worked for 5 seconds then it just died. I checked the fuse and it's ok. there is a clicking noise when I have it in semi auto when I depress the trigger. No click in full auto however. Any ideas or did I get a lemon.

If you are using a mini battery, and the gun is rated at 400fps, it's likely that your battery cannot fire the gun. Try using a large battery, or a 7.4v lipo rated at 20C.

did that, I tried all my battery's and still nothing

when i first got my kwa g36 the motor height was too high/tight and it did the same thing, click and stopped. After adjusting the height it worked perfectly.

Sounds to me like you shorted something or wired something backwards or perhaps the solder joints are cold and just need to be attached correctly

just guessing

That would be next on my list of things to check.

Be careful when adjusting the motor height while the gears are engaged (spring half compressed).

How do I do that?

The large flathead screw on the base plate of your grip.

At it's highest setting (furthest into the gun) it is completely clockwise.

Back it off a little at a time (1/4 of a turn) and try to fire the gun in semi.

If you back it too far, you will hear a screeching sound, if you hear this, turn the screw clockwise until the schreeching stops.

If the gun does not fire before you hit the screeching sound... You've likely locked the gearbox (before adjusting the motor height) and you will have to trip the anti-reversal latch, or open the gearbox.

Ok thanks I will try that today. How do I trip the anti reversal latch. Can I do it without opening the gearbox.

actually with kwa there's a small hole at the base of the grip. all you need is a small allen key(sorry i don't remember off hand what size) inserted through the hole and turn ccw as mentioned above.

On the trigger guard there is a piece of plastic that moves up and down. does that serve a purpose?

Sorry, I've never worked on a KWA G36, but the information is still applicable.

I recommend taking a look at mechbox.com and seeing what info looks helpful.

Will do thanks.

buhhhhh...i've never noticed any moving piece of plastic by the trigger guard. lol.. But i imagine if it's not memorable it's probably not very important.

That would be the bolt catch on the real steel. It's only there for show on the AEG.

well I had a better look at it today and it's the selector plate that's not connecting. If I put pressure on the conection it works but when I dont touch it, it wont fire.

Wrong.

It serves a purpose on the airsoft counter part.

It holds the cross-pin that is used to secure the mechbox to the lower receiver in place. There is a little notch on the pin and a little arm on the button that prevents it from sliding.

Most people just loose that button and the spring when they open the gun the first time. It is not needed, but aesthetically better to have it.

I had some contact issues with my stock KWA last summer. I ended changing the complete wires and trigger unit.

You can trip the ARL without opening the mechbox. You will need something to pull on it however.

1- Remove the lower receiver:
Remove the magwell pin and magwell.
Fold the stock and remove the screw at the top.
Flip the gun over, push the hop-up unit front.
Remove the lower receiver.
2- Remove the mechbox from the receiver:
Press the little button in the trigger guard.
Push on the cross-pin right above it and remove it.
Remove the large screw at the center of the grip plate.
Place the fire selector on SEMI.
Remove the mechbox.
3- Remove the motor cage
4- You will see in the hole where the motor sits:
There is a gear (bevel) and a little lever that pushes against it.
Pull on the lever to let the gear spin.

You are done, go backwards to re-assemble.

Cool done that, thanks still nothing its the selector plate
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...n/IMG_2475.jpg

It does not have good contact and hence why it does not work.

My best bet is to send it back. still under waranty.

In addition to what Kos said, it also serves to be a complete bitch to keep seated straight when trying to put the mechbox back in the grip.

Is the trigger just clicking or do you hear a little whine from your motor like a brief spurt?

If the trigger is just clicking, that's an internet problem with the trigger lever slipping on the portion that pushes into the contacts inside the gearbox. Instead of pushing it down, the lever is slipping over the trigger. This happens on some G36s.

If you can actually the motor spin a little or whine or grunt briefly, then your battery is too weak to pull the spring.

I'd say return it and get a new one. Or, get an SRC :)

SRC?

Got it, thanks.

If you're certain the problem is the selector plate contacts you can either just swap that, or even short out the connectors on the trigger: some mechboxes are built that way (like G&P) or upgraded triggers come that way. One less element in the loops.

It's one less safety (there's potentially always current going to the trigger switch), some people don't like that; personally I don't care, IMO safety starts at the user not the hardware.

True True. I have a bad tendency to break everything I take apart airsoft related. I cant even solder deans connectors properly HAHA.

A friend of mine told me and I quote; Derek all you need to do is charge the batterys, load the bb's and shoot. thats it. Pretty funny I can drive a Submarine, I was on The Naval landing boarding party for alot of years, Can shoot out the staples off the target, well versed in hand to hand combat but I cant open up an AEG or a Gas pitol for that matter without fucking it up. So long story short I returned the G36 to my distributor yesterday. Not messing around with that anymore before I break something.